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Category Archive for Eastern Europe

Gothic Lolita EGL meetup in Vienna, Austria. St Stephen’s Cathedral, Go With Oh rental apartment.

gothic lolita girls, egl community meetup

V-signs! One of my favorite Eurail-Vision trip memories was meeting up with the ladies of Lolita Fashion Austria.

Read on for the story of the European EGL (elegant gothloli) gathering.

asia goth hair, makeup

Some female travelers don’t bother to do their makeup when they’re on the road… but I’m not one of them! It’s simple enough to save space by packing travel-size cosmetics, such as these professional brushes by Sigma Beauty. They have colorful vegan brushes and compact eyeshadows too. (More of my travel must-haves are outlined here.)

goth corset top, lolita skirt

It was one of the hottest days of the year, so I wore sheer fabrics. The Goth corset top and skirt are by Spider, Hong Kong. My sheer black blouse is similar to this one available online.

vienna apartment, go with oh rentals

Go With Oh put my film team and me in this gorgeous Vienna apartment. Remember when Rock n Roll Bride and I stayed in one of their Prague apartments?

If you’re traveling with a few friends, my number one tip is to stay in an apartment rental. It saves money and feels more like home, but is far more private and luxurious than a hostel. Our Vienna flat, for example, had a kitchen and four beds, and would cost under US $200 a night (or $50 per person!)

gothic hand fan

After booking the apartment, we emailed with the owner and coordinated a check-in time. She gave us a tour; the place had all the necessities, including towels and WiFi. To check out, we simply left the keys on the table and closed the door behind us.

I hope you’ll give my friends Go With Oh a spin; they have thousands of apartments to rent all over Europe, including hundreds in Vienna.

lolita meet-up, western lolitas

All dressed up — now, where to go? We rode the subway to St. Stephen’s Cathedral in District 1. What a sight: dozens of Lolitas in lace and bows, gathered in front of the gates.

neo victorian fashion, lolita girls

On the far right is my friend Nana of the band Lolita KompleX (you may recognize her from the previous Vienna post).

brolita, gothloli drag

Posing with Pato. Everyone we met was lovely; the Lolitas here are very inclusive and kind.

kodona fashion, jrock, ouji, visual kei clothes

I loved seeing the variety of outfits, inspired by Japanese subculture style. These included Kodona or Ouji, an aristocratic meets Gothic “boy style” often seen in Jrock.

japanese gothic lolita girl, jsk dresses

There were lots of pastels, ruffles, and Victorian doll elements.

st stephen's cathedral doors, Domkirche St. Stephan zu Wien

The Lolitas took turns standing in front of the metal church gates, which created the ideal backdrop. Everyone got a chance to pose for pictures individually and together.

gothic lolita community, egl clothing

As you are probably aware, Lolita fashion originated in Japan, but takes inspiration from the historical clothing of Europe (like Victorian, Rococo). How neat to see this Japanese street-style cross the ocean and blossom in Austria, the home of Marie Antoinette!

You can compare the Western Lolitas’ coordinate with those of Tokyo Gothlolis.

gothlolis, daily lolita outfits

Some attendees travel long distances for these Austrian EGL meetups, which occur several times a year. (One girl came all the way from France.) After taking photos, the ladies visited a museum together, and ended the afternoon at a sushi restaurant.

lolita fashion group photo

One of the best aspects of blogging is that it connects you to people around the world. I’ve known the lady in teal, Dani, online for years (she was profiled my old Gothloli of the Week feature). Now, thanks to my travels, we were able to finally meet in person.

Lolita-Fashion Österreich, austrian lolitas

There was a positive energy at the meetup; it’s always wonderful when people with shared interests or lifestyles can celebrate together. (My filmmakers, Melissa Rundle and Eric Bergemann, took all these photos.)

lolitas meeting, european lolis

One of these things is not like the other… Can you spot the sore thumb?

europe lolitas, subculture fashion

On Lolita Fashion Austria’s Facebook page, you can learn about upcoming Loli events and meetups. Don’t be afraid to join their next one; the leaders keep the group drama-free.

vienna goth building, statues

Afterwards, we cooled off by getting ice cream and vegan sorbet at the much-loved Eis Greissler (Rotenturmstraße 14). Be prepared for a long line up, and try pouring pumpkinseed oil on your scoop as the locals do.

hofburg palace, vienna imperial home

We ended up at Hofburg Palace, the former residence of Austrian rulers including the imperial Hapsburgs. Nearby is the “Mumok” Museum of Modern Art, which turns into a lively outdoor space in the summer, with drinks and live DJs.

Habsburgs winter palace, hofburg

So much great footage coming up in our travel video. I hope you’re enjoying the mix of my “old school” coverage (Lolita fashion) with the current emphasis on alternative city culture.

Have you ever been to a Lolita meetup? What do you think of the dresses and styling in this post?

Habsburgs winter palace, hofburg

Speaking of monarchy… there are plenty of new photos of my royal cat, Basil Farrow, on his Scottish Fold blog. For daily images, add our social networks (@lacarmina on Twitter, Instagram, etc) from the top-right links in the sidebar.

Have a cute weekend!

A Food Tour of Budapest: Taste Hungary market culinary walk & local wine tastings. Peanut allergy poster!

travel blogger instagram photos

Quick, tell me – what is Hungarian food like? Are Unicum, Túró Rudi, langos and Dobos cake delicious or disastrous? By the end of this post, you’ll have all the answers! (And if you have a peanut allergy, the last photo could save your life…)

The day after Sziget Music Festival, my film team and I joined Taste Hungary for a Budapest food tour. They’ve consulted for Andrew Zimmern (Bizarre Foods) and have rave reviews from foodies, so I knew I was in good hands.

taste hungary, food tours budapest

This indie company offers food experiences in Budapest and nearby areas, with themes such as literary coffeehouse, Danube wine, and craft beer. We did the Culinary Walk, a four hour taste-fest led by an English-fluent expert.

budapest Central Market Hall, wine tasting tour

We met our guide Gabor at Central Market Hall, one of Europe’s biggest and grandest indoor markets. (Address: Nagy Vasarcsarnok, Vamhaz korut 1-3.) He co-owns Taste Hungary with his wife Carolyn, author of several books about Hungarian cuisine.

moathouse eyewear, wood sunglasses

It was the hottest day of the year, so I dressed appropriately. These cat eye sunglasses are from Moat House Eyewear — yes, they’re made of wood! This UK indie brand sent me the hand-crafted frames (which are so unique and comfortable) after befriending me on Instagram.

My ghoulish skull top is similar to this one.

unicum liqueur, hungarian alcohol

Gabor started the tour with a bang, or rather, a very potent drink. Unicum is a bitter Hungarian liqueur, reminiscent of Jägermeister. The secret formula contains more than 40 herbs, and was closely guarded by the family distillery (they even left the country during the Communist era to protect it!).

turo rudi, hungarian chocolate bar cheese filling

Our guide took us to the best market stalls, and gave us the run-down on Hungarian cuisine while we sampled, sampled, sampled. One of my favorite booths was run by a little old lady who makes her own sheep cheese. Gabor set up a little picnic and we tried different types of insanely fresh cheeses, including one with a squeaky texture.

Above is Túró Rudi, a chilled chocolate bar with a filling of quark, also known as cheese curd. Believe me, it’s scrumptious. (All photography by Melissa Rundle.)

Budapest great market hall, food stalls

Budapest locals come to Great Market Hall to buy fresh fruits, langos (fried flatbread), sausages (flavored with paprika), and other Eastern European staples.

pickle jars, smiley face pickles

Did you think cute food was found only in Asia? This basement pickle parlor proves otherwise. After we tried a few — the hot pepper one woke me up — the vendor gave us a free paper cone filled with sauerkraut.

don't touch fruit sign

While it’s not ok to touch the fruit, we did have permission to film. Can’t wait to show you our upcoming travel video, hosted by yours truly. (The Dubai and Abu Dhabi episode is next.)

budapest old architecture, classical buildings

Tip: do a Taste Hungary tour on an empty stomach, as you’ll be snacking non-stop for several hours. Having seen each floor of the market, Gabor took us for a stroll through the surrounding Pest neighborhood. Can’t get enough of the classical architecture.

hungarian restaurant, traditional food dishes

We sat down (or rather, stood at the high tables) for a meal at Belvárosi Disznótoros or “Downtown Pig Feast”. (Address: Károlyi Mihály u. 17) I was grateful to have a local guide, since we would have never found this gem on our own. The traditional Hungarian dishes were flavorful but not overly heavy, and included duck leg, blood sausage, pan-fried potato slices, purple cabbage, cucumber salad, and chicken with pasta.

budapest famous bakery, cake shop

Now, for dessert. We walked to Budapest’s oldest family-run bakery, Auguszt Cukrászda. (Fény St 8.) The entrance had a Wonderland-like mural and rows of marzipan animals.

dobos cake, torta, hungarian cakes

Re-charged with espresso drinks, we dove into the cakes: raspberry, walnut, and the famous Dobos — a seven-layer chocolate-filled and caramel-topped sensation. Like today’s cronut, the Dobos torte caused a frenzy when it was introduced in 1884; Franz Joseph I was among its fans.

outdoor wine bar, budapest park

We ended up in the park, sipping Hungarian wines (rose and white varietals you’ll never find in USA) with our new friend.

Looking back upon the day, I can’t believe how much I learned. A Taste Hungary journey is well worth joining, especially since the tours can be customized for no extra cost. I hope you’ll try one and say hi to Gabor for us!

eurail train, europe railway passes

It’s no exaggeration that food is amazing in Europe. I always eat my fill of the dark grain breads, sheep or goat cheeses, and cappuccinos.

To my surprise, even the European trains had good eats. As first-class passengers, we had access to Eurail lounges stocked with snacks.

inside eurail train, seats

Eurail.com lets you choose from a variety of rail passes and make seat reservations for a bit extra (worth it, to avoid standing the entire trip). All these confirmations are promptly mailed to you.

The comfort of this train, which we took from Vienna to Budapest, could rival Japan’s shinkansen.

train service europe, rail pass

Another perk of 1st class: in some trains, a staff member serves you free snacks! I also could order a meal or drink, and have it delivered to my seat.

first class european train vacations

A Eurail pass applies to railways all over Europe, and I think it’s the most convenient way to see the continent. Our journey was comfortable and the staff was attentive.

train dining car, eurail menu

Unlike in airplanes, you can stretch your legs, enjoy the scenery, and order a proper meal in the dining cart. The trains leave on schedule and stations tend to be centrally located, which cuts down on travel time.

cat cardigan, sourpuss sweater

Tip: it’s worth splurging on first class tickets, especially in the summer (not all the cars have air conditioning). However, there are many options for different budgets, including student passes.

My outfit was sent by Sourpuss Clothing; here are links to purchase the exact same cat cardigan, and skull cut-out dress.

europe train station

Have you ever tried traveling by train? Köszi (thank you in Hungarian) to Eurail.com for sending my filmmakers and me on this grand adventure.

peanut allergy sign, poster allergic to nuts

PS: Are any of you allergic to peanuts and other nuts? In places like Eastern Europe and Asia, it can be difficult to communicate this to servers; some don’t even understand the concept of food allergies. Big problem. If you’re severely allergic to peanuts and accidentally ingest one, you can wind up with a puffy face like my cat’s… or much, much worse.

First Mate Naomiyaki came to the rescue! She created this astonishing illustration that clearly communicates: eating a nut = hives and swelling = death. It was a huge help on our trip, as I’m moderately allergic and one of my filmmakers has a foot in the coffin when it comes to most nuts.

We hope you might find this helpful for your future travels. Click for a large version of the peanut allergy sign; print it out or save it to your smartphone, and show it the next time you’re ordering food in a foreign country. Please leave a comment and let us know if it did the trick!

PS: thanks to Posse for publishing my Hong Kong Insider Guide, which includes pizza, pandas and pop culture clothing.