My 10-Step Makeup Routine & favorite products! Japanese Goth doll eyes tutorial.

art nouveau alphonse mucha headdress

Let’s talk about makeup! I recently got some emails, asking about my cosmetics routine. It’s changed over the years, but I currently have about 10 steps to get photoshoot-ready, using a minimum of products and brushes (since I’m often traveling, and can’t over-pack). I’ll also share some bonus, behind-the-scenes modeling photos from Portland.

make up forever hd foundation, powder

My overall makeup tips: invest in quality products, especially your “base” (foundation, powder). Start with a light SPF moisturizer, and let it dry before applying layers gradually. Obviously, for day-to-day wear, I don’t do all these stages, but for special occasions these are my 10 steps of prep…

1) Apply Make Up For Ever HD foundation with a stipple brush. This foundation is a little pricy, but by far the best I’ve used. With a stipple brush, you’ll get a natural-looking effect. It stays on all day without feeling heavy, and looks great on camera. I use shade “Marble” #117.

(If you need concealer, try Make Up For Ever’s full coverage one. I skip this, and simply dab foundation onto uneven areas.)

2) Make Up For Ever’s HD powder is also a winner. I brush it on lightly after I finish my full face, but it’s worth mentioning here.

ysl touche eclat, highlighting pen

3) Next, I define my eyebrows with a brown pencil. I trace the line below and above the brow, and slightly extend the ends.
4) For a more natural fill, I use an angled brush to apply eyebrow powder, working from a dark to light shade. I also highlight right below the eyebrow.
5) Don’t forget to define your face, or else you’ll wind up looking a bit flat. I adore YSL Touche Eclat, a highlighter pen. It brightens up the area below your eyes, and whisks away shadows.

asian blush, lipstick

6) Then, apply contour and blush to bring out angles (around the cheeks, nose, jaw) and add a bit of rosiness. I like having both in a single compact, saving time and space in my luggage.

(I should mention that a travel brush set is a wise investment. They last forever, and fit snugly in a single case.)

7) I like to experiment with different lip colors, sometimes using a lip brush or pencil to create an ombre fade-out. However, my default is a caramel rose lipstick, such as NARS Pago Pago. They have a superb matte application, and there are many shades to fit your skin tone. Wearing a subdued color keeps the focus on your eyes.

goth eyeshadows, japanese eye liner

8) I recommend carrying an eyeshadow palette like NARS Narcissist, so that you have a variety of light-to-dark tones to play with. If you want to minimize even further, pick something like this set of 4 blue eyeshadows, which you can use to define and highlight your eyes. I tend to extend the colors out, with dark shades at the outer edges, and white for the inner corners.
9) Then, use a black eyeliner pen for a cat-eye effect. I prefer pens to pots and brushes because they are quick and precise.

dolly wink eyelashes, gyaru eyes

10) Finish with false eyelashes. These Japanese Dolly Wink lashes are popular among gyaru. I use an eyelash glue with a brush for better application.

I hope you find this 10-step guide with recommended products helpful! Let me know if you have questions or tips about makeup. It’s fun to discuss in the comments.

blue velvet dress

The above images are by Melissa Rundle and Eric Bergemann. They photographed me for the cover and spread of Rebelicious Magazine. During the shoot, First Mate Naomi Rubin took behind-the-scenes photos of the action.

white coat, faux fur collra

Here are some of Naomi’s shots. My handmade silk flower clips are works of art by Angelica Brigade — check out her site for gorgeous accessories.

outdoors portraits, modeling

My blue-to-green ombre hair is by Stephanie Hoy at Avant Garde Hair in Vancouver.

innocent world tights, alphonse mucha print

And these are my Alphonse Mucha x Innocent World stockings! I bought these special edition tights at the Tokyo Mucha exhibit.

The cut-out knee boots are Yosuke, from Marui One Shinjuku

behind scenes magazine photoshoot

We were in Portland to shoot a travel episode (watch it here), and decided to do the magazine photos at Steel Bridge. I like to incorporate my destinations into my shoots.

portland steel bridge

It takes a village… Eric holds up a reflector, to get the lighting just right.

photographer reflector, taking pictures

The autumn leaves created a beautiful backdrop. I like shooting outdoors, for the light and atmosphere. Fortunately, it didn’t start raining until we were wrapping up the job!

fashion blogger with balloon

Sometimes an idea doesn’t work out. We had some Goth balloons, but they didn’t look right in the images.

portland oregon bridges

The blues, whites and greys of the bridge and water match my outfit’s color scheme.

teal dress, light blue hair

This white disco-era coat is from Hattie’s Vintage (see more of Portland’s secondhand shops in this post).

portland park, fall leaves

Both of my velvet dresses were lent by Vaute Couture — the collection is inspired by Sailor Moon. My faux fur scarf is from Holt Renfrew.

autumn foliage, trees

What are your favorite makeup products and techniques? I’d love to hear your tips in the comments, or on my Facebook!

cute harajuku girl style

I also did a blog post about how to pack stylishly — take a look, for tips on how to create cute outfits on the road.



  1. MelissaR
    Posted May 2, 2014 at 8:02 pm | Permalink

    Such amazing make-up tips!!! I definitely want to try these out!!!

  2. Raven
    Posted May 2, 2014 at 9:12 pm | Permalink

    outstanding tips!

  3. Eileen
    Posted May 2, 2014 at 9:12 pm | Permalink

    So pretty!

  4. Jay Ba
    Posted May 2, 2014 at 9:12 pm | Permalink


  5. Emily
    Posted May 2, 2014 at 11:59 pm | Permalink

    Love Love

  6. oflifeandlists
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 3:06 am | Permalink

    That coat is amazing.

  7. Rachel r
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 9:13 pm | Permalink

    I am a big fan of make up forever too. is very good.

  8. Prince
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 9:13 pm | Permalink

    I second that, this is amazing. Good work.

  9. brenda
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 9:38 pm | Permalink

    <3 fabulouus
    i've been waiting for this post!

  10. 99balloons
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 9:38 pm | Permalink


  11. sara green
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 10:15 pm | Permalink

    i lovee this more pleasee

  12. LEELOO
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 10:39 pm | Permalink

    You look fantastic! So chic!

  13. suki
    Posted May 3, 2014 at 10:40 pm | Permalink


  14. Kowareta Doll
    Posted May 4, 2014 at 8:51 pm | Permalink

    love this post ^^ your makeup always look so cute, like a gothic doll ^^

  15. Wu
    Posted May 4, 2014 at 9:08 pm | Permalink

    is the best!!!!!W

  16. Alice
    Posted May 4, 2014 at 9:08 pm | Permalink

    wow! Looks stunning! Thanks for sharing!

  17. Mike
    Posted May 4, 2014 at 9:08 pm | Permalink

    I like this girl, she’s got style.

  18. Yuu
    Posted May 5, 2014 at 7:05 pm | Permalink


  19. glen
    Posted May 5, 2014 at 7:06 pm | Permalink

    cute look

  20. Dolly
    Posted May 5, 2014 at 7:37 pm | Permalink

    hey Hun
    loving your looks and photos

  21. Charlie
    Posted May 5, 2014 at 7:37 pm | Permalink

    I’ll be in Tokyo in early December, and I was wondering if you want to do a photoshoot? Let me know if you’re keen and I’ll show you some of my past work. Thank you!

  22. Ronel
    Posted May 5, 2014 at 7:37 pm | Permalink

    love your looks! great style you have!

  23. Derek
    Posted May 6, 2014 at 3:46 am | Permalink


  24. Mark
    Posted May 6, 2014 at 3:46 am | Permalink


  25. Ruaki
    Posted May 6, 2014 at 7:14 pm | Permalink

    wow I love it

  26. Dave
    Posted May 6, 2014 at 7:14 pm | Permalink

    z One day you must go to Germany, and I know just the place.

  27. ashley
    Posted May 6, 2014 at 9:07 pm | Permalink

    cute hair clip things!
    check my fashion blog?

  28. Hibari
    Posted June 23, 2014 at 2:03 pm | Permalink

    I use the Make Up For Ever concealer as cover-up for burlesque shows. A little of it goes a long way! I’m also a fan of eyeliner pens, and lately I’m obsessed with RED Burlesque lipstick. It’s long-lasting and moisturizing, and they’ve developed colors for every skintone and shade of red you can think of!

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