Touring Bird, Google travel tips site launched! The Smallville Hotel Beirut review, Lebanon LGBT nightlife & art.
Every superhero needs an evil villain… good thing I can always rely on Yukiro to bring on the darkness!
I can’t begin to tell you how much we loved Beirut: it lives up to its reputation as the hippest spot in the Middle East. Our stay at The Smallville was pure fun, as you’ll see in this story; the hotel captured the wildly creative pulse of Lebanon’s capital.
Before we explore Beirut, I’m thrilled to fill you in on a project I’ve been involved in (it’s the reason I’ve been so absent). I’m honored to be part of the team that launched Touring Bird, a travel site from Google Area 120!
T.BD is a web-based travel app by Google’s incubator. On the site, you can book free and paid tours, and find insider tips for 200 cities worldwide. Instead of basic landmarks, you’ll get recommendations from local experts about hidden bars, secret trails, and other offbeat places.
For the past months, I was working on contract as a “team lead,” or project coordinator between 200 writers, editors, and TouringBird team members. I also wrote over 600 travel articles and contributed photos for dozens of cities.
Touring Bird gave me the opportunity to share the weird, indie spots I love — eg, my Tokyo tips included the Daikaiju monster bar, trick art museum, Vanilla Gallery body mods, and a Ganguro cafe makeover!
At TouringBird.com, you can search for cool, unexpected things to do in 200 destinations. Pick a city, and scroll down to “Local tips” to see suggestions from travel experts including myself. For example, for Osaka, I recommended Territory’s Satanic store (above), drinking absinthe with owls, and rocking out with Fu-Ki at Bar Midian.
You’ll find my alternative travel adventures all over the site. I loved writing about Day of the Dead art in Cancun, K-pop holograms in Seoul, hardcore punks in Yangon, and skull paintings in Reykjavik.
If you’re curious about Touring Bird, you can read more about the launch on Google’s blog. A 45-degree bow to everyone who worked with me on this — cheers to the dream team for pulling off this massive endeavor! I’m excited to hear what you think of TouringBird.com, and hope you find it useful for planning upcoming trips.
Ah, I wish I could teleport back to Beirut, Lebanon… Yukiro and I had a impactful time here, thanks to The Smallville Hotel!
Between the 1970s and 90s, Lebanon was embroiled in civil war. Today, the capital city is safe and prosperous — and it’s become the hippest party / food / fashion spot in the Middle East.
The media tends to portray Beirut inaccurately, which makes some travelers unsure about coming here. We’re here to spill the real tea: this city is a cultural playground, and The Smallville Hotel perfectly reflects this energy.
Named after the town where Superman grew up, The Small Ville is a boutique hotel with a bad-ass superhero theme. The fun begins at front desk: the staff wears red and black berets, and a moving billboard encourages you to “Come as a guest, leave as a hero!”
I’ve stayed at a lot of design hotels, but The Smallville blasted me away with their creativity. The 5-star hotel takes a red color scheme, with playful accents throughout that fit the superhero theme. Darth Vader and his Stormtroopers lord over the lobby, next to a shelf of Marvel DVDs for guests.
Feeling inspired by the concept, Yukiro and I did a shoot around the hotel with in-house photographer Toya.
Naturally, Yukiro took on the role of the super-villain. She transformed into an under-the-sea villain and sprawled tentacles over the bed. (As you can see, the cozy rooms were decked out in contemporary amenities, including art that reflects the city.)
There’s so much to experience at The Smallville. We went up to the top floor to chill by The Poolhouse with Old Fashioned and Manhattan cocktails.
(I’m wearing a UK Lingerie bodysuit, Morph8ne skirt, and Mary Wyatt London beret. Don’t forget, you can shop my wardrobe on my Depop @lacarmina.)
This eye-popping hotel is the brainchild of Sophia Fakhry, who takes on the alter-ego of “Super Sophie.” She wanted guests to feel uplifted throughout their stay at Smallville, and tap into the pulse of Beirut.
The urban hotel has 156 rooms including 39 suites. Each floor features a different series of colorful murals and design objects. We encountered supermodels, fantasy scenes, movie stars, and more.
The Smallville encourages you to play and let your imagination soar. Each floor has a different funny rainbow hat that you can try on, and the rooms are equipped with red scarves. Why not dress up, and take on a superhero persona?
And so, we did! At the penthouse pool, we play-acted for the camera. Looks like the evil queen is about to bash me in the head…
… but I’ll knock her off the balcony at the Stargaze Terrace! (Don’t miss the panorama view of Beirut from up here.)
There’s always something cultural happening at The Smallville, such as live musical performances. We caught a jazz singer and pianist one night at the lobby bar. On a different evening, we watched a man play a traditional oud, or pear-shaped stringed instrument similar to a lute.
Plus, there are several delightful restaurants. The Merry Go Round is run by a 2-starred Michelin chef, who serves up a rotating menu of artisanal delicacies from around the world.
Outside, you can feel as if you’re part of a comic strip at The Red Street Boom café-pub. The Pop Art decor and live DJs keep the atmosphere light, as you chow down on burgers and martinis.
Every morning, we looked forward to the generous breakfast spread. The seemingly endless offerings included Lebanese salads (fattoush), cheeses (like labneh, made with strained yogurt), eggs made to order, and French sweets. We enjoyed biting into manousheh, a Lebanese flatbread topped with za’tar herbs, for the first time.
The breakfast buffet takes place at The Secret Garden, which also serves lunch, dinner and drinks. The airy restaurant is filled with greenery: an oasis amidst concrete buildings. The Secret Garden screens vintage movies, and there is also a stage for live shows.
Yukiro and I don’t usually spend time in the fitness room… but this superhero gym surely packed a punch!
Thank you to the Smallville Hotel for a luxurious boutique stay filled with Kryptonite. There’s simply no other place like this on this planet!
The staff was wonderful at giving us recommendations on alt things to see and do in Beirut. We were curious about youth subcultures in the city, as well as the LGBT nightclubs.
Once called the “Paris of the East,” Beirut has long been a cosmopolitan city filled with glamour and nightlife. Lebanon has the most religiously diverse society within the Middle East, which contributes to the openness of this society compared to that of its neighbors.
Today, Beirut is a safe city with a modern infrastructure and outlook (you can dress freely, and won’t get harassed). At the same time, the city maintains a gritty, undiscovered vibe that makes it a sweet destination for those who want to travel off the beaten path.
Beirut’s hipster neighborhoods are Mar Mikhael and Gemmayze. We took an Uber here, and wandered around to the streetwear concept stores and experimental art galleries.
At 392rmeil393 Gallery, we saw Mazen Khaddaj’s paintings and video installations. By applying and washing off paint, he expressed his spiritual journey in Germany and Lebanon (coming from a Druse background).
Many of the contemporary galleries are set in elegant old buildings, such as Art on 56th.
In the streets, you’ll come across posters that hint at Beirut’s vibrant nightlife.
Urban art fills the alleys of Mar Mikhael and Gemmayze.
You can still see remnants of the wartime period, such as bombed out apartments and barbed wire.
I encourage you to walk around these areas and get a feel of Beirut’s edgy, artistic scene.
How about LGBT culture in Lebanon? Although citizens don’t have the same freedoms found in Western countries, the country is much more open than its surrounding Middle Eastern nations.
Locals have launched supportive spaces, such as Haven for Artists, for marginalized creators. Look for the UFO and you’ll have arrived.
Haven for Artists is a non-government NGO that encourages underground Lebanese artists to flourish. This friendly community house hosts exhibitions, collaborations, and residencies.
Say hello to Lea, the lovely manager, and drop some Lebanese pounds in the “be tipsy” jar to support their meaningful work.
Everyone we met was eager to share recommendations (clubs, stores, restaurants) — you can tell that locals are proud of their city, and all that it has to offer.
At Haven for Artists, you can browse a selection of indie zines and art by young creatives. Some of the works have pride themes.
Be sure to explore the various gallery rooms. We met Daria, an artist working inside the space, and she showed us her intricate line drawings and temporary tattoos.
What else is there to love about Beirut? The food will astonish you. Every meal we had was wonderfully executed, with fresh ingredients and lots of produce.
Locals flock to Loris, in the Gemmayze area, to dine with friends and smoke shisha.
This is Middle Eastern food in its most vibrant form. Yukiro and I feasted on fattousch salad, flatbreads with herbs, a Lebanese tomato grain mixture, and an insane cauliflower dish with tarator (tahini) sauce. We washed it down with arak, an anise spirit.
Beirut loves to party, and things get especially lively past midnight. Our Smallville Hotel was in Badaro, next to a street filled with hipster bars. We enjoyed the ginger cocktails and techno / minimal vinyl DJs at Orient Express Bar.
Come to Beirut on a weekend so that you can experience the LGBT nightlife at Projekt and The Grand Factory (there are frequent drag shows). Photos aren’t allowed inside, so you’ll just have to imagine us in a warehouse with a smiling gay-friendly crowd, dancing to Arabian techno til 4am.
We noticed that people in Beirut tend to be quite stylish. Even though many women cover up with headscarves and long skirts, they play with sheer panels and decorative details, and complete the look with designer heels.
Wouldn’t you like to rock this magic wizard hat? It’s a tantur, a traditional Lebanese headdress!
Back at The Smallville Hotel, we browsed eclectic fashion at their “Super Store.”
The cat’s of the bag: this is the coolest hotel in Beirut.
A kiss for The Smallville team for letting us live out our superhero (or villain) fantasies!
We’ll have to come back to savor a meal by 2 star Michelin Chef Christophe Vessaire at Merry Go Round.
Fond memories of lounging in our room and grooving along to Klaus Nomi’s Cold Song (1981). At Smallville hotel, you can kick back and be yourself to the fullest.
A few days in Beirut weren’t nearly enough. I’m keen to come back for the museums, and go outside the city to see the ancient Phoenician ruins of Byblos.
If I could step into a Teleporter, I’d portal straight back to The Smallville Hotel. I hope you’ll book a room at these funky accommodations, and have as much fun as we did here.
Beirut’s offbeat, edgy vibe is exactly what I look for in my travels. And on that note…
…I hope you’ll take a moment to check out Touring Bird, the new Google travel website I’ve been freelancing for. From occult portals in Stockholm to shopping for Miffy in Hong Kong, you’ll find my spooky signature all over it. A big thank you to everyone who helped T.BD take flight!
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Renting an apartment with Eiffel Tower view! Paris Perfect rentals review, Paris Pass museum passes, Le Corbusier house.
Paris, it’s been a while! I’ve visited the “city of lights” twice before, but this was before starting this blog. At long last, I got the chance to come back and share some alternative travel stories with you.
Of course, we’ll creep into the Catacombs, and look for vampires in Pere Lachaise cemetery. However, we’ll start with a photo diary of Paris’ beautiful museums and architecture. (Above is a stirring example, The Fontaines de la Concorde.)
If you’re an art / architecture / culture lover like I am, then you should consider Paris as a travel destination. I could spend hours walking through the various arrondissements, admiring the diverse styles from throughout the centuries.
From the ornate Art Nouveau doorway at 29 Avenue Rapp, to the shiny new Russian Orthodox cathedral, there’s so much to take in.
In this spirit, I looked for elegant accommodations straight out of a French fantasy. The moment I scrolled though Paris Perfect‘s apartment rentals, I knew I’d found my Parisian home.
The photo above captures the magic of my Chambertin apartment. The spacious flat is outfitted with carved fireplaces and chandeliers, and French balconies that open out to a view of the Tour Eiffel!
It’s a joy to browse the short-term vacation rentals at ParisPerfect.com: you can search by size and location, and see gorgeous photos of the interiors. Booking online is easy, and the company has an office near the Eiffel Tower where you can store bags if needed. A team member always greets you when you check in, and answers any questions you might have.
(I’m wearing a Valfre ballerina wrap top and blue En Creme skirt, both from Forest Ink.)
I settled into Chambertin with a glass of wine (Paris Perfect kindly left me a bottle and snacks). I ran a bath, and soaked in this claw-footed tub while looking out at the Eiffel Tower… “comme la vie est belle.”
(At night, you get a brilliant view of the Eiffel Tower, which twinkles with lights.)
The apartment rental has a fully equipped kitchen, so you have the option to cook meals at home. I caught up with an old friend in the cozy living room, and worked on my laptop at the dining table (every Paris Perfect apt has free and fast WiFi).
Ah, I miss having a morning coffee in this spot! My friend and I would go around the corner to get croissants or French onion soup, and stroll through the nearby parks.
If you’re looking for a special stay in Paris, seek out a local experience rather than a standard hotel. As you can see, my Paris Perfect accommodations were… perfect, and I’d book with them again in a heartbeat.
My apartment rental was near many metro stops, which was convenient for exploring the city. And it was only a few blocks away from the Eiffel Tower!
I dressed in French fashion for the occasion. My black and white Jolie dress is by Valfre, from Forest Ink (they carry many alternative, grunge and edgy designs by various brands). My leggings and silk bomber jacket are Charli Cohen.
With the kind assistance of Paris Tourist Office, I got a private architecture tour of Le Corbusier’s modern buildings. Anyone can visit Fondation Le Corbusier, an archive that honors the pioneering French-Swiss architect.
We began at Maison La Roche, which is a semi-detached house designed by “Corbu” and Pierre Jeanneret between 1923–1925. Originally the home of a banker / art collector, the villa is now a museum that holds thousands of the architect’s drawings and photographs.
I loved seeing the smallest details, such as the light switches and furnaces, designed for Maison La Roche. Le Corbusier’s custom furniture complements the horizontal windows, which fill the rooms with light. A steep, curved ramp swoops up from the avantgarde art gallery to the library.
Self portrait in the pink bathroom, wearing Valfre.
Wandering through the grid-like spaces of Villa La Roche truly lets you get a sense of Le Corbusier’s genius. There’s so much more to be said about this UNESCO site; if you’re intrigued, you can check out the Fondation’s detailed guide to the home here.
Our docent also took us to the nearby Paris studio-apartment, where Le Corbusier lived and worked from 1934 to 1965. Although Charles-Édouard Jeanneret (his birth name) is best known as an architect, he was also a prolific writer, artist, and urban planner.
Located on the top floor of Paris’ Molitor Building, the open spaces, supporting columns, and floating facades are quintessential Corbusier. The artist modified the wall colors over time, and added shade panels since the windows let in a bit too much light.
The pivoting wood door allows you to define the space. Walk up the curving staircase to the terrace, or enter the living room painted with unexpected blocks of primary colors.
Some of the studio-apartment’s elements are on the odd side, like a giant elevated bed designed to maximize the view when one is lying down. The bathroom features space-age curves, and the cramped shower looks like a cocoon.
Le Corbusier filled the apartment with art objects from his travels. He designed much of the furniture himself, such as these curving chairs and marble dining room table. According to his wife, he was inspired by a mortuary slab that he saw in a dissection room!
We walked up to the rooftop garden as the sun was setting. Concrete planes, surrounded by plants… Corbu was very much ahead of his time.
Here’s a detailed PDF from Fondation Corbusier for more details about the studio. Hail Le Corbusier!
Since I was keen to visit many museums while in the city, I got a Paris Pass. This sightseeing pass is well worth the value, as you get immediate access to over 60 travel attractions. The Paris Pass also includes a TravelCard for unlimited public transit on the metro, RER trains, and buses.
Since I had the Paris Pass, I could use the “fast track” line at top museums and monuments — like the Louvre. The world-famous glass pyramid always has a long line-up, but with The Paris Pass, you can go straight in.
I only had a short time in Paris (as I was here on my way to Cairo). The Paris Pass let me maximize my time and enjoy the sights, while saving on entry fees.
You can choose to get The Paris Pass in 2, 3, 4 or 6 consecutive day lengths. The booklet is mailed to you; simply activate the card by scanning it at the metro or at your first attraction.
When I saw the long line outside Musee D’Orsay, I was relieved I could simply waltz in — and no need to shell out the €14 ticket fee! (If you’re seeing a few attractions a day or taking public transport a lot, the Paris Pass more than pays for itself).
It was my first time at this art museum, which is set inside the glorious Gare d’Orsay. The railway station was built between 1898 and 1900 in the Beaux-Arts style. Today, these original glass and ceiling details have been painstakingly preserved.
Le Musee D’Orsay focuses on French paintings, sculptures, furniture, and photos from around 1850-1914. It contains the world’s largest collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist works, by artists like Manet, Monet, and their brethren.
I was especially intrigued by the station architecture (featuring long ramps and industrial staircases). I enjoyed seeing lesser-known large scale works, such as French Symbolist paintings with trippy themes.
You’ll find Mondrian, Degas, Delacroix, Rodin, and Gauguin among the Orsay artists. I got a kick out of the dramatic carved statues found throughout the open spaces — like this devilish detail.
Yes, you can see placid waterlilies here. Or you can find tormented poses, and a vampiric bite while Satan flies through the red sky!
The Paris Pass made it possible to cut the queues and save on ticket fees. On their website, you can see the full list of museums and activities that the sightseeing pass covers. The Paris Pass also includes a free hop on/off Big Bus day tour, and discounts at restaurants and shops.
You can make the rounds of Arc de Triomphe, Panthéon, Musée Rodin and dozens more with the Paris Pass. I enjoyed the opportunity to visit lesser-known museums, like the Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac. Since entry is included with the pass, why not check it out?
Next time, I’ll use The Paris Pass to go up the Eiffel Tower, and do a wine and cheese tasting…
The entire city feels like a museum. Even though Paris is such a popular destination, I was swept away by its charm.
Look up and admire the details found in each neighborhood.
It’s fun to people-watch. Check out the black and white outfit worn by the lady outside Saint Pierre de Chaillot church.
In Paris, sometimes the “tourist” things are the best things to do. Take a stroll along the banks of the River Seine, and duck into the Jardin des Tuileries.
And eat. Indulge in Laduree macarons, get fresh croissants from a local bakery, and try a sampling of cakes at Angelina.
Linger over a meal at Angelina’s cafe in Galleries Lafayette. Cheese and beet salad, cheesy pasta, and multiple glasses of red wine.
Paris, je t’aime. Merci Paris Perfect for the lovely stay in Chambertin apartment; I can’t wait to return.
But how about the Gothic side of the city? That’s coming up next. Catacombs, French absinthe and graveyard haunted by vampires… A bientot!
LA CARMINA
