Luang Prabang, Laos day tour with private guide! Kuang Si waterfall, Buddhist temples with Tours By Locals.
Laos, you were lovely! After a grueling TV shoot in Japan and the madness of Bangkok, I was in dire need of R&R.
Luang Prabang, Laos was just the ticket to a peaceful getaway. It was a joy to get to know this Buddhist country with my friends and Tours By Locals. Read on for our journey involving temples and waterfalls and bears — oh my.
Outfit Details: I’m wearing a cut-out shirt by Michi, and hat by Bella Starr Hats. My heart-shaped Hope bag is by Lola Ramona; they also make a version that looks like a Sailor Moon bag. More tops like mine below…
My friends and I wanted an authentic experience in and around Luang Prabang, so we linked up with Tours By Locals. They connect travellers with trusted local guides around the world, who take them on private excursions off the beaten track.
Our Luang Prabang and waterfall tour was entirely customizable, and easy to arrange online. Unlike typical group tours, I loved how we got to see the culture of Laos through the eyes of a passionate local.
Our guide Jay Asia and his driver picked us up from our hotel in an air-conditioned car. Jay has a bright, easy-going energy that was perfect for us, as we like to be flexible in our travels. He was glad to make last-minute adjustments for us (such as when we wanted to stop for ice cream and coffee), and always answered our questions thoughtfully.
Luang Prabang is a tiny capital, so it’s possible to visit many attractions in a single day. We began our morning at Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham temple. Jay explained that this Gothic black mound is a stupa, or Buddhist monument housing sacred relics or remains.
(I’m holding my Boy 1904 umbrella, and wearing skeleton bone leggings similar to these ones.)
Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham is the largest and most ornate temple in Luang Prabang. The structure was built in 1780 by King Anurat, and the interior is shimmering with gold leaf and red lacquer. (All photos by Julie Hunter, Yukiro Dravarious and me.)
We sat down in front of the giant Buddha with Jay. He told us his personal story of studying with Buddhist monks as a child, and then becoming one for several years.
Jay knowledgeably answered our questions about the differences between Buddhism in Laos, and other countries in Southeast Asia. He walked us through his daily life as a monk (involving very early rising, receiving alms from locals, eating twice a day, meditating for hours, and abiding by precepts). It was fascinating to learn about Laotian spirituality from his perspective.
I asked Jay about the portrait next to the giant golden Buddha. He told us that it honors Phra Sangkharat, the highest dignitary who resided in Wat Mai temple at the end of the 19th century.
We chatted under the calm gaze of the towering gilded Buddha, seated in the meditation position. He is surrounded by many smaller Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, positioned in various mudras. The shrine also houses an emerald Buddha.
Outside, the gilded façade has bas reliefs depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life, as well as daily life in Luang Prabang.
Jay suggested that we walk around to see a hidden second Buddha, awkwardly seated right behind the large one! Originally, this was the main image of Wat Mai — but the founder’s younger brother decided to one-up him, and place a bigger Buddha right in front.
Inspired by the poses we saw in the artwork, we went on to Haw Pha Bang. The eaves and decor look classic, but this temple was actually finished in 2006.
The green, red and gold temple sits near the Royal Palace of Luang Prabang. It was built in 1904 (during the French colonial era) to house King Sisavang Vong and his family. Today, the Royal Palace is a museum that preserves the history and lineage of the kingdom.
We ended our temple-hopping at Wat Xieng Thong, one of the most important in the country. The temple and monastery were built in 1560 by King Setthathirath. This remained the site where kings were crowned until the Communist takeover of Laos in 1975.
Jay bowed three times to the golden Buddha inside, draped in the orange robes of a monk.
Finally, we entered the royal funerary chariot house, where we were greeted by a fierce funeral carriage standing 12 metres high! These growling creatures are nagas, the mythical serpents of the Buddhist cosmology.
The exterior of the Royal Funerary Chariot Hall is a sight to behold. Completed in 1962, these gilded wood carvings show flowery scenes from the Phra Lak Phra Lam, the Laotian version of the Hindu epic Ramayana.
This building was built to house royal urns, and the dramatic funeral carriage of King Sisavang Vong. When he died in 1959, the barge was carried through the streets of Luang Prabang.
Next door is Luang Prabang Library, an educational non-profit that I urge you to visit. They provide books and school supplies to children in rural areas, where such items are a rarity. To reach these remote villages, the library operates two boats and make stops along the Mekong River.
In the community space, volunteers teach local children music, languages, and other skills. (These two shy girls are playing the lanat, or Laotian xylophone).
You can support the Luang Prabang Library by dropping off books or school supplies for the children. Alternately, you can purchase a souvenir or make a donation.
I had a million extras pens and stationery lying around, as well as old calculators and other items. It was simple to gather and donate them to the library. What we consider “clutter” can be invaluable in other parts of the world.
The Luang Prabang library is doing wonderful work, and we were happy to support them during our travels.
Time to sing “Welcome to the Jungle” as we made our way to Kuang Si Waterfall, located about 18 miles south of the capital. Our driver took us on a 45 minute ride that wound through lush forests and rice fields.
Laos was a welcome relief from the pollution and traffic of Bangkok (our previous destination). Here, there are no fast-food restaurants or tall buildings, and we didn’t see a single bus of tourists.
Tours by Locals offers a one-hour trek to the famous waterfall, but in this humid weather, we opted to drive most of the way. From the entrance, we walked along the path for about 10 minutes. As you can see, “it’s a jungle out there”… Pirate-planks over water, and trees with twisting roots!
Pro tip: don’t lean on the wood railings of the small bridges. Yukiro posed against one… and the rail fell right off! I shrieked in terror, but fortunately, he wasn’t injured.
As we got closer, the flow picked up its pace. Kuangsi Falls is a multi-leveled cascade, so the water crashes down from different heights. There are areas where people can swim… but the current was quite fast, which dissuaded us from going in.
Yukiro is wearing a black and white striped sunhat by Bella Starr.
The path leads to the main falls, with a 60 metre drop. The mist over the limestone pools made Kuang Si look like something out of a fantasy.
Jay took this photo of me while holding up a leaf to the lens. We were happy to have him as our guide, as he always found ways to make our tour special. For instance, Jay got us grilled bananas and potatoes for us to try, and ran after Yukiro’s sandal when he lost it in the stream!
(I’m wearing a black cutaway top by Michi, and heart shaped Hope purse by Lola Ramona. They also make the heart bag in red and blue. See more of their retro pin-up styles below…)
If you’re in Luang Prabang, you’ve got to make an excursion to the dazzling Kuang Xi waterfalls. Since it’s located outside the city, booking a private trip with Tours By Locals is the easiest way to see the falls.
As you trek through the jungle, don’t be afraid if you come across some grizzlies. This is the site of Free the Bears, or the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre!
This organization works to protect Asian black bears. Tragically, many of these creatures are trapped and killed for their gallbladders, which are believed to have medicinal powers. These bears are also killed for food, or taken as pets in the black market.
At Tat Kuang Si Rescue Center, we were glad to see that they are now living the Winnie-the-Pooh lifestyle! The non-profit provides stimulating, open enclosures for the bears.
Visitors come to say hi to the cute mammals, and learn about them. Outside, there was a “bears of the world” display… Can you spot the odd one out?
Free the Bears Laos also helps other animals, and employs locals in meaningful work. With their efforts, the endangered Asiatic black bears will hopefully rebuild their populations.
On the way back, we made a pit-stop at Laos Buffalo Dairy. This sustainable farm produces fresh buffalo cheese and milk, which they serve with coffee. And they make delicious buffalo milk ice cream, which helped us cool down from the humid temperature. (Try the pumpkin pie, tamarind, and coconut flavors!)
Susie Martin, one of founders, took us on a tour of the farm. So many happy bunnies to feed and hold.
Susie explained how Laos Buffalo Dairy works with local farmers and helps the community. They rent the females to milk them for dairy products (a non-traditional use of the buffalo in Laos), providing the villagers with a source of income. The farm also provides better healthcare for the animals, and cross-breeds them for greater milk yields.
Buffalo milk is nutritious, and easier to digest than cow milk (as lactose intolerance is common in Asia). This farm takesexcellent care of the animals, and the products help feed Laotian children, 44 percent of whom are undernourished. Cheers to Laos Buffalo Dairy for their innovative work.
After our tour with Jay, we spent time exploring Luang Prabang on our own. This is the type of place where you enjoy a leisurely breakfast, go out to see a sights or take a swim, and then relax for hours in a local cafe.
Not many places in Laos have air conditioning, so we were relieved to visit Saffron Coffee (they have an AC area upstairs). Laotian coffee is fantastic — I thoroughly enjoyed my cold brew — and Saffron makes a mean gluten and dairy-free brownie, along with other sweets.
We also enjoyed hanging out at Novelty Cafe in Luang Prabang. They have a great selection of fresh juices and healthy foods, and the chic environment is perfect for working on your laptop.
Luang Prabang avoids the typical tourist-trinket stores. We browsed local boutiques that sold Laotian handicrafts, scarves, textiles, and art.
Leave it to me to find a devilish mask and red star!
Luang Prabang is so tiny that it’s easy to walk around everywhere. If the heat gets too intense, you can flag down a local tuk tuk.
We ended up at the Luang Prabang night market, where you can find snake liquor, glowing lanterns and other inexpensive items. Be sure to bargain — Yukiro got long pants for $1.50 US!
Jay then took us on a night out, starting at Tamarind restaurant. We feasted on Laotian eggplant, the national dish of larb (minced buffalo), pumpkin ginger soup, and surprisingly tasty sticky rice. Next, we had drinks at the Lao Lao Garden, a verdant bar with a lively crowd and pool table. Cocktails are only about $2, and you can pay for items in Thai baht or Lao kip. (Try the dragonfruit coconut cocktail, a new creation.)
Finally, Julie took a walk up Mount Phousi, which rises over the center of the old town. (Yukiro and I elected to go back to our villa and get massages!)
As you climb the 355 steps, you’ll encounter gold Buddha statues and shrines along the way. The golden Wat Chomsi stupa sits at the top of the mountain, built in 1804.
When you reach the summit of Mt. Phousi, you’re rewarded with a panoramic view of Luang Prabang: temples, deep green mountains, and the snaking Mekong River. Many travellers come here for a spectacular view of the sunset.
A big hug to our guide and new friend Jay Asia — he made our trip to Luang Prabang one to remember! We thoroughly enjoyed our Tours By Locals experience, as it let us learn about this destination with authenticity. Without a private tour and driver, we would never have been able to cover so much ground in a single day.
Unlike other Southeast Asian countries, Laos lacks a single landmark or attraction that drives visitors (contrast this to Angkor Wat for example). However to us, this is an enormous plus: we loved being in an unhurried, non-commercial city. Luang Prabang let us kick back, and simply take in the local nature and spirituality.
Keep Laos in mind for your next trip. There are residents doing excellent non-profit work here — bear rescue, children’s literacy, local development, nutrition. I hope you’ll have an opportunity to visit and support them.
One more post from Laos to come, so check back… and I’ll be posting about Bangkok, Tokyo, Naoshima and Hiroshima too!
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Travelling to Hiroshima: Castles & Culture! Japanican train & hotel package, Miyajima floating gate, Peace Museum.
Leaping back from my blogging hiatus… with a story about our adventures in Hiroshima, Japan!
As I mentioned in the last post, I took a blog break as I was insanely busy with a Tokyo TV shoot. I’m glad to report the show went well, and I then had a great time traveling in Asia with my friends.
Now, I’m refreshed and ready to share new travel / fashion / culture stories with you… beginning with my JAPANiCAN trip to Hiroshima, a city I’ve always wanted to see!
Because I was away, I didn’t get a chance to share some outfit photos. Isn’t my cosmic galaxy umbrella out of this world? It’s by Boy 1904 umbrellas: they make high-end designer umbrellas that provide both UV and rain protection. (It also matches my Alien Botany dress by Zoetica Ebb.)
I carried this Boy 1904 umbrella everywhere with me during the summer. The UV-proof fabric keeps me cool and protected from the sun’s rays, and the roses / butterflies / space pattern drew tons of compliments.
The parasol opens and closes smoothly, and has a well-designed strap to hold it together. Give Boy Umbrellas a glance; they have plenty of colors and original designs.
Now, let’s say hello to Hiroshima! The major Japanese city is located south-west of Tokyo, about a four hour train ride or 1.5 hr flight from the capital. Because of the distance, my friends and I never got around to visiting Hiroshima until this time.
Join us as we discover the history and spiritual culture of the city, including the famous floating shrine at Miyajima. We’ll end with a visit to the Peace Museum, which memorializes the victims of the 1945 atomic bombing. (It’s an intense visit, but don’t worry, there are no graphic images in this story.)
If you’re keen on visiting Hiroshima for a few days, I strongly recommend booking a JAPANiCAN travel package like I did. Their “4-Day Hiroshima Train & Hotel Package by Nozomi Shinkansen” was exactly what I was looking for: fast, round trip bullet train tickets from Tokyo (or Shinagawa or Shin-Yokohama), plus three nights hotel in Hiroshima.
JAPANiCAN’s website has options for various travel packages and tours in different Japanese cities. Making a booking on their website was simple, and took the stress out of searching schedules and hotels. JAPANiCAN booked me into Hotel New Hiroden (which was in the perfect location by Hiroshima Station, and included a free 1-day streetcar pass). They reserved my train tickets, and delivered them to my Tokyo hotel a few days before the departure.
(My Sailor Moon nail art is by Glam Nail Studio in Richmond, BC.)
All I had to do was get to Tokyo Station, and hop on the “nozomi” shinkansen where I had reserved seats. Since it was a direct bullet train, I didn’t have to worry about platform changes. I relaxed in the spacious seats with a coffee, and watched the changing sights out the window. (The train passes through Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and other major cities.)
Four hours later, I was in Hiroshima. And a four-minute walk later, I was checked in to my hotel, and ready to explore!
JAPANiCAN’s four day travel package made trip-planning a breeze, and the total cost was far lower than if I booked regular tickets and hotel rooms on my own. Check them out if you’re planning a trip, as they have fantastic travel options for all major cities in Japan.
I loved the flexibility of the package: they arranged the hotel and trains, but I was free to spend my time exploring however I liked.
My friends and I began our journey at Hiroshima Castle, also known as Carp Castle. Built in the 1590s, this was the elegant home of the daimyo, or feudal lord. The castle was sadly destroyed by the atom bombing in World War II, but a close replica was rebuilt in 1958.
We crossed the moat bridge and entered Hiroshima-Jo. The classic stone and wood architecture made me feel as if I were in a samurai movie.
The castle’s main keep is five stories tall, and surrounded by beautiful gardens.
I was traveling with two artist friends, and they created art all throughout the trip. I’m excited to introduce this new “travel illustration” feature in my stories! I love how their works capture the feeling of being there at that moment.
Naomi Rubin (my First Mate and creator of weekly comic Moonsprout Station) did this dreamy watercolor of Hiroshima Castle. It takes me right back to standing beneath these eaves, taking in the architecture and natural surroundings. (Any visitor can get this free red stamp as a souvenir; love how Naomi incorporated it into the painting.)
Becky Hawkins has a series of journal comics about travels and daily life. Many of these postcards showcase the humorous and memorable moments of traveling — such as this one, about her and Naomi!
(Although the castle structure was destroyed by the bomb, several trees survived and continue to grow tall.)
For a 300 yen fee, you can enter the castle. Inside, there is a museum that focuses on Hiroshima’s history before World War II, as well as Japanese castles.
As Yukiro demonstrates with a “da-me” pose, you can try on the samurai costume… but “don’t put tight armor”!
Visitors can climb the staircase to the very top floor of the castle. From the balcony, you can take in panoramic views of Hiroshima, particularly the rivers and popular Hondori district.
Can you spot my friends waving at you? Hail Hiroshima!
Here is Becky Hawkins’ ink drawing of the castle, which is how I picture it in my mind. (For more of her works, check out her SuperButch comic about a 1940s lesbian superhero, with Barry Deutsch. It updates every Tuesday.)
The next day, we went to see the famous orange-red torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine. It’s located on the island of Itsukushima, popularly known as “Miyajima” or literally “shrine island.”
To get here, you have to take the train for about 45 minutes from downtown Hiroshima, followed by a short ferry ride. We rode the Sanyo line from JR Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi, and then hopped on the JR Miyajima Ferry. If you go out on the balcony, you can wave at the red arch as the ferry approaches the isle.
The Shinto torii gate is unique for being built over the water, giving the impression that it’s floating in the water during high tide. You can check the daily schedule to see when the sea will be at low and high tide. (We arrived in Miyajima around 10am, which was just when the shops were opening).
Itsukushima is an adorable destination, with plenty of cafes and craft shops that maintain an Edo-era feeling. We stopped for excellent coffee and breakfast before wandering around.
Without doubt, you’ll encounter the local deer as you walk around. Looks like this guy is hungry for Japanese curry!
The stores sell local specialities, such as “deer beer.” Kawaii is everywhere in Japan, so you’ll find characters like Moomin and Totoro in the souvenir shops.
More snaps of cute collectibles. Those lucky cats (maneki neko) are truly reaching for the stars, with their giant paws.
I made friends with a giant tanuki, or Japanese raccoon!
Outfit details: I’m holding a Boy 1904 umbrella, and wearing an alien tank top like this one. My skeleton bones leggings are similar to these ones here.
Miyajima is a destination for slowing down and enjoying the natural surroundings. The seafront promenade is especially lovely, and passes by both Buddhist and Shinto temples.
At low tide, the water drains out of the bay, and visitors can walk all the way up to the gate.
Miyajima torii’s vermilion color supposedly keeps evil spirits away (but somehow, this Goth sneaked through). The bottom of the gate, which is sometimes immersed in water, is covered in barnacles and coins left by visitors.
Wearing skeleton leggings and an alien top.
Itsukushima Shrine was built in 1168 by Taira no Kiyomori, the powerful military leader of the late Heian Period. He selected the island to be the site of his clan’s family shrine, and mounted this otherworldly red-orange gate to protect it.
The island has long been a spiritual location. In 806 AD, the monk Kobo Dashi climbed the highest peak, Mount Misen, and made the mountain a center for Shingon Buddhism. (However, the primary location for Shingon is Koya-san, which I also visited).
I took snaps of the traditional Gojunoto Pagoda, and a deer with impressive antlers.
What else is there to see on Miyajima? More shrines, a white horse statue in a stable, and the world’s largest rice scoop!
In the back of one of the stores, we discovered a beautiful Japanese garden with bonsai trees and giant koi fish in the pond.
Don’t leave Itsukushima without trying momiji manju, a buckwheat and rice pastry shaped like a maple leaf. These mini cakes are usually filled with red bean paste, and are a specialty on the island.
This sweet was invented by a wagashi (confections) maker in the late Meiji period. Miyajima’s various shops serve momiji in different ways, including steamed or fried, and stuffed with different fillings like chocolate, cream and cheese. I recommend trying something warm and freshly-made; you can’t go wrong with the original red bean ones.
Naomi got an adorable stuffed momiji, to commemorate our trip. Miyajima is a must-see when you’re in Hiroshima, especially for those who love Japanese culture, architecture and spirituality.
We dedicated an afternoon to remembering the nuclear bombing of Hiroshima during World War II. The sheer devastation of the attack hits home when you see the Atomic Dome, or Genbaku Dome building (above). Only the skeleton of the structure remains, and the surrounding walls are blackened.
Nearby, we stopped at a plaque that marks the Hypocenter, or exact location where the atomic bomb “Little Boy” detonated in mid-air.
Everyone who visits Hiroshima should do their best to visit the Peace Memorial Museum, which documents the atomic bombing of August 6, 1945 and its aftermath.
The museum is located in Peace Memorial Park, a well-designed green space that has multiple commemorations throughout. These include an eternal Peace Flame, and an arch-shaped cenotaph etched with the names of all of the people killed by the bomb.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum uses interactive technology to powerfully convey the scale of the nuclear destruction. This circular video shows a bird’s eye view of the city, and follows the bomb as it hits the hypocenter. As many as 140,000 people died from the US atomic attack, both from the direct impact and the later radiation sickness.
(The museum also talks about the bombing of Nagasaki three days later, which killed up to 80,000 individuals.)
This black and white panorama shows how the bomb’s blazing heat and radiation laid total waste to Hiroshima.
Other displays talk about the history of Hiroshima both before and after WWII, including the health effects, politics, rebuilding, and other topics.
I thought the most powerful exhibits were the stories of survivors, especially children who described the pain and horror around them, and the loss of their family members. Above are some of the most haunting images: the tattered clothing of the dead, and the shadows left behind by those vaporized in the thermal radiation.
I saw dozens of Japanese school kids in matching hats at the museum; it was good to see children learning first-hand about the bombing of Hiroshima. These exhibits highlighted recent developments such as Obama’s visit, and ongoing worldwide efforts to make sure this never happens again.
One of the most powerful exhibits consisted of artwork by survivors. I felt that their memories, depicted through art, conveyed the terror even more vividly than the photographs.
The Hiroshima Peace Museum is an intense visit, but an important one to make. I encourage you to set aside at least a few hours to take it all in, and then give yourself time to relax afterwards. (We went to have a glass of yuzu liqueur after we left… and took it easy the rest of the night.)
Today, Hiroshima has rebuilt itself into a modern and energetic city. Becky Hawkins put it perfectly in her travel postcard from our trip: “All I knew of Hiroshima was the atomic bombing. I saw a vibrant city with a rich history… And a lively present.”
I hope you enjoyed the new travel art feature, and our stories of the historical / cultural attractions! In an upcoming post, we’ll focus on the fun alternative fashion and pop culture of Hiroshima — after all, this is the hometown of Mana of Malice Mizer.
If you’re in Tokyo and interested in visiting Hiroshima, I highly suggest booking a JAPANiCAN travel package. Our three-day train and hotel deal saved us the headache of making arrangements, and the total price was less than if we had booked independently. You can find out more, and see packages and tours for various Japanese cities, on their site.
Finally, are you getting excited for Halloween yet? A lot of spooky fashion has just been released for the season of the witch!
I found the above Halloween Gothic clothing collections here and here — happy shopping!
For the latest Goth Halloween fashion, visit this site.
LA CARMINA
