San Diego Goth Travels! Hotel Andaz review, Japanese restaurants Taka Sushi, Cloak & Petal, cannibalism museum.
Hail, San Diego! Since California is currently one of the safest US states (in terms of case count), I went west after Salem to hang with the animals.
I didn’t have time to visit the famous zoo… but still got to pet the giraffes, at the chic Andaz San Diego hotel.
Read on for my SD travel diary that includes sushi restaurants and the Andaz’s STK Rooftop Bar, which overlooks downtown San Diego…
… and a cannibalism exhibit at the Museum of Us, at the nearby Balboa Park! (It features famous flesh-eaters like Issei Sagawa, The Japanese Cannibal.)
The Andaz San Diego, a concept by Hyatt, ticked off everything I look for in a hotel. It’s a design-focused boutique property, with a convenient central location (San Diego’s downtown Gaslamp district).
On the top floor, you’ll find The Rooftop by STK — the largest roof-top hangout in all of San Diego, with soaring views. I had fun sitting around the fire pit with cocktails and shared plates. (Dress by Sourpuss Clothing.)
The Andaz’s 159 rooms are decorated with sleek furnishings and local art, which capture the warm and laid-back vibe of San Diego. I was glad to find an enormous bathtub, and small touches such as free earplugs on the side table.
The Andaz is set in a historic building, which was originally built for the 1913 World’s Fair. Today, it’s a contemporary space with an open-air rooftop restaurant / bar for safe hangouts.
The Rooftop by STK serves food all day. I particularly enjoyed the breakfast / brunch menu: the avocado toast, oat milk lattes, and veggie frittata with goat cheese, spinach and tomato jam hit the spot.
There’s also a swimming pool on the Andaz rooftop. Take a swim at sunset, to watch the sky turn pink.
The Andaz’s lobby is filled with surprises, including this art gallery / lounge space inhabited by a giraffe and her baby!
When I checked in at Andaz San Diego, the staff offered me complimentary coffee, beer, or wine. There was also cold brew coffee available on-tap at all times — and I sure took advantage of that.
The hotel’s common areas are well tended (Plexiglass separators, hand sanitizer stations, masks required), and filled with art that pay homage to San Diego’s sights, such as the Zoo. The Andaz has special designer suites too (see photos of the rooms.)
My favorite art piece: a 12-foot tall giraffe sculpture.
The funky design draws from the Gaslamp Quarter’s artistic culture. Local works are displayed throughout the Andaz, including large-scale paintings.
Cheers to the Andaz San Diego — I’d love to come back for a strawberry cocktail at the rooftop pool!
San Diego is known for its excellent sushi, so I went to investigate the best Japanese restaurants nearby. Locals rave about Taka Sushi; located in the Gaslamp dining district, it was only a short walk from the hotel.
Chefs Maru and Makoto greet all guests with enthusiasm. Taka Sushi’s intimate wood interiors and long sushi bar add to the friendly feel — and made me nostalgic for sushi restaurants in Japan.
At Taka, the skilled chefs combine a creative modern approach with traditional techniques. They select the freshest ingredients, including seasonal fish from Japan, and put together phenomenal omakase sashimi platters. Above, we were speechless at the melt-in-your-mouth salmon from New Zealand, amberjack, uni (sea urchin), squid, tuna, hamachi and more.
Taka Sushi also offers cooked Japanese dishes, and one-of-a-kind creations — like this spicy tuna tartar, flecked with gold and caviar! The combination of avocado, quail egg, and spicy sesame oil soy sauce was remarkable.
I strongly recommend going for the omakase at Taka, meaning that you leave the selection to the chef (the Japanese word comes from “makaseru,” or “to entrust.”) You’ll get to try unusual and seasonal offerings, such as these small crunchy red crabs.
Next came a sushi and nigiri selection… isn’t the presentation lovely? The battera “box” sushi stood out, and the ikura salmon roe gunkan, tamago egg, and ebi shrimp were among the best I’ve had in a while (a well-executed tamagoyaki is a sure sign that a sushi restaurant knows its stuff).
The server came back to take this fish and the still-moving prawn, which were then fried.
Don’t leave without trying the original zucchini flowers starter with wasabi salt, and black sesame creme brulee. Arigato Taka Sushi for the outstanding omakase — I’ve had a lot of sushi around the world, and this experience ranks among my favorites.
For a chic Japanese fusion experience, there’s no better spot in San Diego than Cloak and Petal. Located in Little Italy, “cloak” suggests a hidden spot, while “petal” references the gorgeous cherry blossoms trees that decorate the restaurant. Year-round, anyone can come here to eat under the pink and white sakura flowers, similar to “hanami” picnics in Japan.
Start with hot sake, and then choose from Cloak & Petal’s imaginative menu. The sushi creations have catchy names like “Go Go Ohime Sama” on the right (asparagus, avocado, krab, salmon, yuzu gel, smoked salt, strawberry compote, lemon oil, micro greens), and “Cezar Chavez & Main” on the left (shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, avocado, black pepper, tuna, charred jalapeño ponzu, cilantro, habanero).
The restaurant decor has a Japanese street art vibe, inspired by the Tokyo subway and graffiti art.
I loved this spicy and textured spin on hamachi (yellowtail): prepared carpaccio-style with ponzu, jalapeno, black garlic sauce, chives, and garlic.
Thank you Cloak and Petal for a lovely Japanese meal under the sakura blooms, with excellent service and ambiance.
(SD sushi restaurants and Andaz rooftop photos by Kym LaRoux.)
Speaking of eating raw foods… I stumbled upon an intriguing cannibalism exhibit. “Cannibals: Myth & Reality” is currently on display at the Museum of Us (formerly known as the Museum of Man). It’s located in San Diego’s Balboa Park, an enormous green space and the site of many museums, art galleries and the world-famous zoo.
The thoughtful and gore-free exhibition dives into cannibalism from all perspectives, from historical incidences to pop culture perspectives, Quite a few horror movies have humans-eating-humans; above is the Japanese poster for the “Cannibal Holocaust” film.
Here’s a newspaper article that sensationalizes Jeffrey Dahmer, “The Milwaukee Cannibal.” He stored body parts in his freezer, and admitted to feasting on the flesh of his victims.
Cannibalism is considered taboo and associated with evil — yet the exhibit points to instances where people turned to it as a last resort for survival. I saw photos from the famine during the Nazi siege of Leningrad, and heard stories from the Uruguayan rugby players trapped high in the Andes Mountains, who resorted to eating the dead to survive.
Cannibalism is also shrouded in myth and mystery. We still don’t know what happened to Michael Rockefeller, the heir who disappeared in New Guinea in 1961. The natives of that region were known for headhunting and cannibalism, and rumors spread that he was eaten by them.
Our judgments of “right” and “wrong” change with the times. Here’s a scene depicting ritualistic Aztec cannibalism. (You can read more about pre-Columbian civilizations in my Mexico City stories.)
The Museum of Us has interactive displays that make us ponder the nuances of eating “long pig” around the world. (Is it acceptable to eat hair or nails? Or one’s own flesh? And under what circumstances – where do we draw the lines?)
The museum has other fascinating exhibits centered on anthropology and cultures worldwide, I enjoyed the “Monsters!” section, which has a hell of an entrance.
It dives into fantastical art and legends of monsters worldwide. These Asian depictions got my attention.
From the manticore to Godzilla to fierce Chinese dragons, monsters have long had a hold on our imaginations.
The San Diego Museum of Us also had some visitors from ancient Egypt. This sarcophagus is looking a little green. (See more mummies, Sphinxes and Egyptian artifacts in my report about the Cairo museum.)
The building itself is a beauty. It was constructed for the 1915 Exposition, and the exterior sculptures were by the Piccirilli Brothers.
I leave you with a devilish figure from inside the Museum of Us…
… and the true ruler of the underworld (if you ask me) — Miffy the bunny! (I came across this mural on the walk from the hotel to Balboa Park.)
Is San Diego on your list of places to visit, now that travel is re-emerging? Thank you to the Andaz San Diego for the terrific stay, and I’m keen to be back soon.
Until that day, as Ron Burgandy would say… “You stay classy, San Diego!”
SHARE & COMMENT
Gothic travels in Salem, MA! The Hotel Salem room review, Witch Board Ouija museum, New Age occult witchcraft shops.
Surprise… I’m back on the road! After over a year at home, it feels good to be safely traveling again.
Travel looks very different these days… but as you’ll see in this story, the new regulations are manageable, and I had a seamless journey from Canada to the US. (I’m vaxxed, maintain distance, and wear a mask. I also only visited places with low case counts.)
When Destination Salem, MA invited me back, I eagerly hopped on my broomstick for Witch City.
It felt right to make my first flight — since Feb 2020! — to Salem, Massachusetts, one of the most Gothic destinations on the planet. Read on for my stay at The Hotel Salem, a mid century modern design hotel located downtown…
… and my tour of the Salem Witch Board Museum. It’s the world’s largest museum dedicated to Ouija boards, which includes a few Satanic specimens.
I’ve been at home in Vancouver, BC since spring last year, and followed local health protocols carefully. With the vaccine in my arm, I felt ready to fly to USA to report on travel with Destination Salem.
Right now, anyone flying to America must take a NAAT (such as PCR) or antigen test less than 72 hours before departure. (Please check official government websites to ensure you have the latest information, as things are constantly changing.)
I had never taken a COVID test before, and the time-frame and regulations were a bit daunting (what if I didn’t get the results back in time?). Fortunately, the process was seamless thanks to TravelSafe Immunization Clinic in Vancouver, BC. They’re a full service one-stop travel clinic that provides vaccines, prescriptions and health advice in addition to COVID-19 testing for essential travel or work purposes.
I was impressed by TravelSafe Immunization Clinic’s efficiency and clear communication — they answered all my questions and prepped me well beforehand, and I could email them at all hours with prompt replies.
I went in for my appointment, and was ushered into a medical room. The health worker wore full PPE (mask, gloves, and face shield), and did the nasal swab for me (it wasn’t uncomfortable). The very next day, I received an email with my negative test results, which I showed at airport before checking in to my flight.
If you need a COVID-19 PCR/NAAT test (or other medical tests and pre-travel vaccines) in Vancouver, Canada, I can vouch for TravelSafe’s smooth and professional services. (Their clinic is at 2184 W Broadway, Suite 420.)
At this moment, Canadians are subject to around a $2000 hotel quarantine fee (for a 3 day stay) if they fly back to a Canadian city from abroad. However, if you cross over by land (ie, drive across the US-Canada border), you don’t have to pay this rate.
(NB: No matter what, returning Canadians must take a PCR test up to 72 hours beforehand, and quarantine at home for 14 days with daily check-ins. Again, this may change so please check the most current regulations.)
To avoid paying 2K and staying in an airport hotel, I flew to Seattle Sea-Tac Airport, and had Evergreen Town Car pick me up and drive me across the border! This local-owned car service company is based in Bellingham, and experienced in driving travellers from Washington State to British Columbia. They can even take you all the way home to your address in BC.
My friendly Evergreen Town Car driver met me at baggage claim, holding a whiteboard that said “La Carmina.” He helped roll my suitcase to the luxurious black car, which had a Plexiglass shield between the front and back seats. I watched the sun rise from the windows, then dozed for the rest of the comfortable 2 hour drive to Peace Arch border crossing.
My driver helped me navigate the US-Canada land border crossing, since he had done it many times — he knew which documents I had to show, and where I had to go for my mandatory COVID test. The cross-border drive worked out brilliantly and saved me stress… as well as the enormous quarantine fee and three days in a hotel!
If you’re looking to go from Washington State to anywhere in British Columbia, Evergreen Town Car can take you all the way to your final destination in Canada. They also can do flat rates and take care of special requests, and provide car services within WA. Cheers Evergreen for making the final portion of my trip home a breeze.
Now, let’s talk about the first stop on my journey — Salem, Massachusetts!
After over a year of nothingness, I was ready to relax somewhere stylish and luxurious. With modern interiors inspired by mid century modern design, The Hotel Salem fit the bill. (You may recall that I even decorated my apartment in MCM style.)
The Hotel Salem is part of Lark Hotels, and opened in 2017. I adored the mid century modern colors, vintage-style furniture and funky lighting. As you can see, the rooms are spacious and have 16 foot ceilings with plenty of light.
The Hotel Salem’s cozy bed was one to remember. (Wearing a silk Lemonwood Luxury mask and matching scrunchie. Top from Cyberdog, tights and skirt Ninja Cosmico.)
The Hotel Salem has several in-house dining options, including Counter Kitchen + Bar in the lobby. The midcentury diner-inspired space serves New England flavors and drinks all day. (For summer of 2021, they will convert the space into a Tex Mex pop-up.)
(My Gothic platform sneakers are Anthony Wang Shoes.)
The Hotel Salem’s lobby walls are made for photo-taking. The 1950s retro stripes pay homage to the building’s former life as a high-end fashion department store.
The lounge area is furnished with mod curving sofas and coffee tables. (The Hotel Salem follows COVID safety protocols to a high standard. They ask anyone who enters to wear a mask, the common areas are frequently cleaned, and staff doesn’t come into the rooms unless requested.)
I’ll show you more from The Hotel Salem in an upcoming post, including the small plates and cocktails I enjoyed on The Roof — the only open-air rooftop restaurant/bar in Salem.
The Hotel Salem is right smack in downtown Salem (at 209 Essex St), so you’re staying in the midst of Goth, witch and metaphysical boutiques. (Keep reading for a guide the witchiest shops in Salem MA.)
Just a few blocks away is the Salem Witch Board Museum, the only museum on the planet dedicated to the history and mystery of “talking boards.” To get here (127 Essex Street), look for this planchette sign. The Ouija board museum is tucked behind a gift shop called Remember Salem.
(Thanks to my friend Thomas O’Brien Vallor for pointing me to the Witch Board Museum. He runs Satanic Salem Walking Tours — I’ll do a full review of his tour soon; it’s the highest rated one on TripAdvisor for all of Salem!)
I got a personal tour of the Salem Witch Board Museum from owner John Kozik. He owns one of the world’s largest collections of Oujia boards and related memorabilia. John riveted me with tales of the history of the Ouija Board, its impact on pop culture such as horror movies, and the lore (including Satanic Panic accusations) surrounding the game.
Ouija boards are marked with the letters of the alphabet, the numbers 0–9, the words “Yes,” “No,” and often “Hello” and “Goodbye” along with other symbols. (“Ouija” is a trademark of Hasbro, but people use the word to refer to talking boards in general).
A group of people each put a finger lightly on the planchette (small heart-shaped piece, as pictured above), and slide it to spell out messages. Some believe the seance invokes spirits that make the planchette move on its own, but in fact, the players push it in unison.
The space includes hundreds of talking boards from all over the world, with a wide variety of colors, designs and materials. It’s only a portion of his entire collection.
In the 19th century, spiritualists and mediums started using boards like these to supposedly communicate with the dead. The Ouija we know today was created and named in Baltimore, Maryland in 1890.
The Salem Witch Board Museum also displays art and historic objects related to talking boards. Here’s a 1920 magazine cover of The Saturday Evening Post, with a “Ouija Board” cover by Norman Rockwell. Note that the man is using the game as an excuse to look at his lady-friend’s “juggs.”
On the right: Rich “Ormortis” Schreck created a witch and Baphomet version, for the museum’s art exhibit
Ouija boards have long been associated with devil. (A Baphomet on a Spanish talking board makes the connection explicit.) Some parents refuse to let their children play the harmless game, out of fear that they’ll summon evil demons or Satan himself.
It made sense for the Talking Board Historical Society to team with The Satanic Temple a few years ago on an exhibit: “From Planchette to Baphomet, Ouija’s Deal with the Devil.” The society displayed their darkest boards at The Satanic Temple’s headquarters, which has rotating exhibits that anyone can visit.
Behind me is a selection of the many movies, books and music that have depicted Ouija boards as the “tool of the Devil.”
John Kozik has been fascinated by talking boards and collecting them since he was a lad. Satan lurks beside the oldest boards in his collection, which are made from wood.
The Salem Witch Board Museum also has a selection of clothing for sale… and a rather grabby skeleton!
I was particularly drawn to the Ouija boards from various countries around the globe. Did you know the Japanese had a similar divination game called Kokkuri, which was popular during the Meiji era?
The themes of the witch boards change with the times. Here’s a groovy 1979 Psychic Sex Board, which lets the spirits decide how you “get down.” (With the lights on or off, strobe lights and mirror, roughly, tenderly, kinky…)
Symbols also take on different meanings throughout the ages. This 1920s Ouija board caught my eye because it has both a swastika and a Jewish Star of David! Before the Third Reich made it the Nazi symbol, swastikas were considered a symbol of good luck. (And it remains so in Asia and India, with the arms pointing to the left.)
Some of the spookiest talking boards were made by musicians. Kirk Hammett of Metallica has his signature board on display, as does the band Ghost. (Love the metal planchette design of their Popestar Spirit Board.)
This is only a tiny glimpse of John Kozik’s talking board collection. Visit the Salem Witch Board Museum to see more of his Ouija rarities, and please tell him I say “hello”… and “goodbye!”
If you’re visiting Salem for the first time, I encourage you to see the Witch Museum and other historic sites, which I covered in my previous articles. Since this was my second visit and I was doing my best to maintain distance, I mostly walked through the downtown streets and window-shopped.
Salem is home to all things witch-related, from dolls to potions and broomsticks. The town did a great job at relaying the message of wearing masks.
Tattoo stores, eccentric art galleries and other alternative spots abound in inclusive Salem, MA. (Above, Witch City Ink displays a unicursal hexagram and rainbow Pride flag.)
As someone who’s drawn to creepy and morbid everything, Salem felt like home.
Salem is linked to witchcraft because it was the site of the 1692 witch trials. The “Bewitched” TV show was also filmed here. (Spells can’t keep away the virus, so even the witches are wearing Ouija board face masks.)
However, the stores sell more than just witch-related goods. Items related to myths, the occult, and metaphysics are also popular. Here’s a statue of Hercules fighting the Lernaean Hydra.
Ancient Egypt has a strong presence in Salem as well. Above is Bastet the cat-god, and Khnum — the ram-headed horned god of fertility.
You’ll also find things on the cute side of darkness. These skull-headed critters reminded me of the Day of the Dead vibe of Mexico City.
As you’d expect, Salem comes alive at Halloween during the annual Haunted Happenings. Nonetheless, you’ll find Halloween decor and creatures here year-round.
In 2019, I published a guide to shopping in Salem. I’ll end this post with some of the places I missed on my first trip, such as the Gothic / alternative clothing store “Die With Your Boots On.”
Die With Your Boots On carries all sorts of dark and subculture fashion. This angel statue must be weeping because he cannot decide which neon boots to buy! (But you don’t need to cry — just click the ones you like below):
Some of Salem’s shops are on the tourist side. I encourage you to visit authentic witch shops like Enchanted, which sells hand-crafted products by Salem witch Laurie Cabot.
The Wicca and New Age selection includes books and Tarot cards. (I feel The Tower is my guiding card these days…)
If I had unlimited space in my suitcase, I would have filled it with books and candles.
Don’t forget to stock up on Goth homewares, such as “You kill me” plates with happy skulls.
I’m so happy I made the trip back to Salem, Massachusetts. Covid levels are low here and vaccination rates are high, making this a great destination for travellers starting to venture out again.
Everyone wore face masks, as well. I’m a fan of Lemonwood Luxury’s silk masks and scrunchies; the soft natural silk is comfortable (with adjustable ear straps) and protective, and the material is great for the skin.
My sneakers are Anthony Wang Shoes. Skirt and spiderweb tights from Ninja Cosmico, top from Cyberdog UK.
I wish I could hop on a broomstick and time-travel back to this bed at The Hotel Salem – loved my stay here!
For more alt travel tips, enjoy my previous posts about Salem and Boston. (These include Count Orlok’s Monster Gallery, and the Bewitched Samantha statue.)
In early June, I also spoke at NATJA (North American Travel Journalists Association) conference. I was part of a virtual panel — with other travel journalists and destination marketers — that discussed “Media and Press Trips: Asking the Taboo Questions.” Thank you NATJA for having me speak about my travel journalism and press / FAM trip experiences.
After Salem, I went to several more destinations… Curious about where I headed next? Then I invite you to check in with me on Instagram and Twitter (@lacarmina). And if you have any questions about traveling as the world begins to open, please comment and I’ll do my best to help!
LA CARMINA
