Category Archive for Mexico + Central America
Puebla, Mexico travel guide! Toyo Ito’s Museo Barroco architecture, talavera skull art, artisan shops & restaurants.
I’m back from Mexico now… and had the most magnificent time in Puebla! Only a two hour drive from Mexico City, Puebla is a peaceful artisan and food city famed for its Baroque buildings…
… as well as this masterwork of Japanese minimalist architecture (above): Toyo Ito’s Baroque art museum, Museo Internacional del Barroco!
Read on for my food / art / shopping guide to Puebla, Mexico. My favorite mems include strolling around the artist markets, eating street foods like quesadillas and tacos, and chilling poolside at Cartesiano spa wellness hotel overlooking the old Catedral. (Gracias Canirac Nacional and our new friends Maria and Miguel for making these travel experiences possible.)
Puebla is only a two hour car ride from CDMX, making it a sweet escape from hectic city life for a few days.
Treat yourself to a stay at Cartesiano Boutique & Wellness Hotel like I did. You get access to spa facilities and a quiet rooftop pool overlooking this colonial era church.
Cartesiano Hotel is located in a former convent and has a stunning garden with a labyrinth! Guests can take part in free wellness classes; we loved trying a morning moving meditation session.
Puebla’s colorful streets have a unique feel because of its history. The Spanish founded the city in 1531, and the architecture is a mix of European Baroque and Indigenous styles. Puebla is also the only major colonial city in Mexico that was not built at the site of a pre-Columbian settlement.
Puebla is also home to a masterpiece of Japanese minimalist architecture… Museo Internacional del Barroco! Architect Toyo Ito’s design looks like curved white concrete sails mirrored by water — a contemporary take on the 17th century art displayed inside.
Built in 2016, the Baroque International Museum’s maze of rooms highlights the contrast of light and dark (chiaroscuro) that fascinated Baroque artists.
Watch my IG video to see me exploring Toyo Ito’s architecture!
A swirling courtyard fountain mimics the dramatic flow of water found in many 17th century works.
I was enthralled by Toyo Ito’s use of light and curved concrete elements.
Inside the museum, you can see works of art by Pueblan artists, as well as impressive collections of Baroque works.
Come at golden hour and stay until evening to see the white sails aglow.
The whirlpool in the center of the courtyard is mesmerising — possibly my favorite space in the museum.
Toyo Ito’s wave-like shapes also pay homage to Italian architect Francesco Borromini’s facades.
Museo Barroco in Puebla is a must for those who love classic art and Japanese minimalism.
The moon came out to play… At night, the structures are illuminated with light.
I’m so happy I got to see Toyo Ito’s Baroque museum in Puebla. Check out my Instagram @lacarmina reel for a walk-through of the architecture.
I worked up an appetite, so it was taco time. Maria took us to her favorite street vendors — and Taqueria Las Ahumaderas served one of the absolute best tacos I’ve ever had.
See how the chef “werked” the grill with a hairdryer! The chopped beef was melt-in-your-mouth juicy, topped with guacamole and salsa… I could have eaten six of these carne asada tacos.
We also tried pork carnitas tacos and unique Pueblan versions, arabes and orientale (pork with Middle Eastern spices, served in pita bread).
The next day, we headed to Mercado Cholula (located near Cholula Pyramid, the largest in the world by volume). Here I had the best quesadilla of my life: a freshly made blue corn tortilla with stringy cheese, squash blossoms and huitlacoche truffles!
Cholula Market is a well-run and friendly place to try local specialties like stews and memelas poblanas (thicker masa tortillas with beans and other toppings).
You can also shop for all types of produce and ingredients, as well as healing herbs — I left with a sachet of Mexican oregano. The friendly vendors hold out samples for you to taste: Puebla’s yellow peaches were scrumptious!
One of the reasons I wanted to visit Puebla was for its famous talavera, a pottery tradition that dates back to the mid 16th century.
You can purchase talavera at various shops and markets in the city, but I wanted to visit one of the most well-regarded producers: Talavera de la Reyna, not far from Cholula Market.
I knew I was in the right place as soon as I saw this wall of black and white skulls!
My goal was to purchase a Mexican talavera skull for my apartment redecoration project (which I will reveal soon). So many one-of-a-kind handmade skulls to choose from…
Talavera de la Reyna has the highest quality ceramics, from sculptures to plates and vases. The elaborate process includes two kiln firings and hand painting, and can take months to complete.
Of course, I had to take home one of the skulls (a tribute to Mexican Day of the Dead culture) – can you guess which one?
If you visit Puebla, you can’t miss Talavera de la Reyna’s showroom and art gallery. There’s no better place to learn about the ancient ceramic tradition and find an original piece.
I’m all about hands-on activities, and was delighted to take a Mexican cooking lesson. I learned how to make mole poblano from scratch using pre-Hispanic methods in the home of Maria and Miguel’s mother! We gathered in her classic kitchen and prepped a dozen ingredients for the spicy, earthy, chocolate-y sauce, which is one of my favorite Mexican foods. A delight to then share the mole with their family along with Pueblan dishes like chalupas (a crisp tortilla with toppings).
We also had a meal to remember at El Mural de los Poblanos, known as the best traditional restaurant in Puebla. How lovely is this open space with a mural and skylight.
I devoured three types of mole on duck enchiladas, as well as fresh salads made with papalo, a peppery green leaf from this region.
I came across a witchcraft themed cafe as well, Home Witch Home, which is done up in Halloween decor for “foolish mortals.”
More authentic are the smiling sugar skulls and La Catrinas found at Perros del Mal, a buzzing mezcal bar with an impressive selection of mezcals, including artisanal versions from the Puebla area.
I had a mezcal cocktail in a talavera skull mug and shared modern Mexican plates at Attico 303, a hip restaurant in the historic district overlooking the grand Catedral de Puebla (a UNESCO heritage site). The perfect spot for dinner with a view of the central plaza.
You can’t leave Puebla without doing some serious shopping. I dropped pesos at La Cosmetiqueria, an all-natural soap and skincare store near the historic center. I found snake and pumpkin soaps for less than a dollar each (perfect gifts for Goths) and got a creamy avocado moisturizer.
“You can sit with us,” Puebla Goth edition! While there aren’t really any Gothic attractions here, you’ll find friendly skeletons all throughout the city.
I browsed the many market stalls that sold art and souvenirs, but preferred the higher quality items found in artisan boutiques, particularly in the Barrio del Artista (Artist Quarter).
Dancing calaveras and devil masks — Mexican culture has plenty of spooky elements!
My face looked like these happy skulls as I wandered around the small artisan workshops and saw them at work in the Artist’s Barrio.
Don’t you want to visit Puebla, Mexico after seeing how my trip went down? Gracias to everyone who made these travels possible. (Please click on the Puebla story highlight on my Instagram @lacarmina for more tips!)
I leave you with rainbow sugar skulls and a few press / writing updates.
Huffington Post interviewed me about travel JOMO, or the joy of missing out when on vacation. I told them: “I’m a fan of the Chinese ‘lying flat’ movement, which is about living simply and opting out of the socially conditioned trappings of hustle and work culture.” Read more of my thoughts on Huffington Post.
WIRED Magazine also interviewed this Goth gal about how to keep up a skincare / beauty routine while traveling! Of course, I went on about sun protection… See the article “How to Pack Your Beauty Routine for Travel” on Wired.
Finally, I received an assignment to write Eater’s Best Restaurants guide to Osaka, Japan. See all my food and travel writing for Eater national here. Thanks for supporting my journalism, and as always, you can catch up on my current travels and fixations on IG @LaCarmina!
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San Jose del Cabo: Beach Goth clubs & skull mezcal bars vacation! Depop Gothic Lolita Harajuku Jrock clothing sale.
Yes, sometimes I’m a Beach Goth! (Always slathered in SPF, of course).
I spent some days in San Jose del Cabo, Mexico — which is the chiller area (partiers and tourists tend to stick to Cabo San Lucas). Read on for the most photogenic, quiet beaches and beach clubs in SJD…
… as well as some Gothic destinations in Cabo, like this Day of the Dead skeleton lady mural in the artsy town. You can also watch a reel of my trip highlights here on @lacarmina IG.
But first a pretty big announcement: I’m selling almost ALL my worldly possessions.
Including rare Gothic Lolita Visual Kei memorabilia, Harajuku punk Goth fashion (like this Lovecraftian shirt I wore to Angkor Wat), and hundreds more kawaii cute and alternative Japan items on @LaCarmina Depop.
I need to clear out everything, so if you would like anything I have, please let me know! Happy to do reductions and can ship worldwide.
TO VIEW MY CLOSET SALE: Everything is listed here @LaCarmina Depop, but no need to use the app. You can email me gothiccarmina @ gmail dot com – let me know what you’d like, and I can mail packages worldwide. Open to all offers and will do discounts. Thank you!
If you’ve been following me on @lacarmina social media, you probably saw that I had a flight cancellation fiasco that left me stranded in Los Cabos for a few extra days. Although it was a bit of a hassle to figure out a new flight and extended accommodations, I made the most of my bonus time in the sunny west coast of Mexico.
I spent a day vegetating at El Ganzo Beach Club, which is part of Hotel El Ganzo in San Jose del Cabo. No need to stay at the boutique hotel (although it looks lovely) — anyone can purchase a day pass, and take the quick, free boat across the water to the chic club!
El Ganzo’s Cabo beach club has a a private, luxe vibe — as well as this pristine beach with gentle waters.
Tip: go early so that you can grab one of the chic cabanas of shaded lounge chairs overlooking the ocean.
Love the artsy, relaxed atmosphere of El Ganzo — it’s a world away from the raucous tourist scene in Cabos San Lucas (which I didn’t even visit).
I also much prefer the weather on the west coast of Mexico — it’s a dry heat, so you can avoid humidity and mosquitoes (my ultimate nemesis, along with microplastics).
This “Goth in hot weather” kept chill and pale under the shaded cabana. Order drinks and snacks, which are served right to your lounger bed.
And always bring water, a hat and mineral sunscreen! (Goths in hot weather are a rare sight, indeed.)
These catch of the day fish tostadas with lime and a bit of spice were perfection.
Can’t beat a smoky pineapple mezcal cocktail with this view of palm trees and light waves.
I’d love to come back to spend more time at Hotel El Ganzo’s beach club. (Anyone can purchase a day pass, which includes a credit that can be used on food).
Speaking of Mexican food… there are so many scrumptious options in San Jose del Cabo, especially if you go to small restaurants outside the tourist zones. I double-fisted ice coffee and green juice at Abrejos Cafe (close to the beach), and ate generous portions of birria (above), tacos, and other local eats for low prices.
No need to stay at a pricy resort in San Jose del Cabo. You can rent an inexpensive Airbnb, and take inexpensive Ubers to public access beaches like the long Ocampo.
Wore a Y2K shrug (vintage from the early 200s) and Michi Playa dress to cover up from the sun.
Walking along a Cabo beach and dipping my toes in the waves = happiness. (See the crashing waves and more in my SJDC video on @LaCarmina IG.)
As you can see, I had Ocampo beach mostly to myself — yet another benefit of coming to San Jose del Cabo rather than crowded Cabo San Lucas.
Tip: on the western side of Playa Ocampo, there are free palapas that are first come first serve. If you arrive before noon on a weekday, like I did, chances are you can nab one.
A PSA from the sunscreen queen: please take care during the summer heatwaves. Temperatures and heat effects are stronger now than even a few years ago (hello, The Collapse!), so burns and heatstroke can creep up on you faster than you expect.
Be vigilant with SPF and coverups, seek shade, hydrate with electrolytes, and limit time outside. (I took these photos in two minutes, then put my hat back on and sought shelter,)
Nothing beats natural beach waves. I’m often asked for my hair care tips so let’s go:
– Don’t bleach / dye your own hair if you lack training. Invest in a salon that uses pro products and gentle techniques (my stylist is @katatkore in Vancouver)
– Only have your stylist bleach the roots, and don’t change the colour too much to keep it healthier
– Never overwash your hair (once a week or longer depending on circumstances), and use pro quality shampoos and conditioners, not drugstore
– After washing, gently towel dry and finish with protective hydrating serum and @dysonhairpro blow dryer (worth the investment)
– No heat tools. I use overnight rope curls for waves
– Cut off split ends & tie hair in non-damaging not-too-tight ways (like Dutch braids and with silk scrunchies, not regular elastics that encourage breakage)
– Sleep with a silk pillowcase. I also wear a silk hair cap on flights
– Nutrition and hydration make a difference (fish oils, protein, veggies, fruit)
– Don’t forget that genetics play a role!
It’s worth going a little further south and west to Playa Palmilla — one of the most gorgeous Los Cabos beaches. The rocky landscape and clear waters are “chef’s kiss.”
Palmilla Beach is also the site of One&Only Palmilla, one the most exquisite five-star resorts in Cabo (with beachfront access).
You can also kayak, paddle board, swim, snorkel and take part in other water activities. (Or just hang out and enjoy, as I did.)
Then, luxuriate at Aqua Restaurant in One & Only Palmilla resort. (I cooled off in the air conditioned area with a mezcal cocktail and these views.)
The oceanfront One&Only Palmilla is one of the most stunning places to stay in Cabo.
The One and Only’s infinity edge pool is picture-perfect, and the service here is top notch.
As you can see, I was perfectly happy to be stranded in Mexico for a few extra days!
I also explored the artsy town of San Jose del Cabo. The streets are filled with art and antique galleries, and framed by colorful banners.
I recommend eating slightly outside of SJDC, as prices here are higher. (I got cachete or cheek tacos about 8 blocks away, for $2). However, you can find Goth goods like this skull chocolate in town.
San Jose del Cabo also has an Art Walk every Thursday evening that lets you learn more about local artists and meet them at galleries. However, you can shop their wares — like these sugar skull scarves — at any time.
Look out of street art as well, such as a skeleton lady mural and Boo sticker near El Encanto Inn.
Love the joyful vibe of San Jose del Cabo, especially around sunset.
If you’re a mezcal fan like I am, a visit to Cabo Santo Mezcal (craft cocktail bar) is a must-do.
The San Jose del Cabo mezcal bar is decorated with dark skulls — this Goth felt right at home.
Try a tamarind mezcal cocktail at Cabo Santo Mezcal, and tell the friendly bartender Sergio that I sent you.
I’m trying to blend in with the plants so that I don’t have to fly home from Cabo! I hope these travel tips help you plan a chill Goth-on-the-beach vacation.
If you have any questions about Mexico travel, let me know — I’ve been to many parts of the country now! You can see my previous Mexico blogs here, and watch a video of my Cabo getaway.
And don’t forget to check out my closet clear-out @LACARMINA DEPOP – let me know if I can mail you anything!
LA CARMINA
