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Goth Malta travel & food guide! Hypogeum & Hagar Qim ancient megalithic temples, Valletta Barrakka art & gardens.

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Surprise: I was in Malta last year! I made a quick trip to the Mediterranean island nation during my Europe travels in 2024 — and it turned out to be one of my favorite new destinations.

Malta is situated south of Sicily / Italy and north of Africa, and has been inhabited since the Stone Age. As a result, the country has everything that appeals to me as a Goth / culture-focused traveller: mysterious ancient temples, opulent historic architecture, and dramatic waterfronts. (Watch my Malta reel for footage of my travels here. I also did a video about what I ate in Malta.)

malta Mdina Old City view from sliema

Case in point: this view of the Old City of Mdina, a walled city that seems frozen in time from its Medieval heyday. Perhaps you recognize the buildings from HBO’s Game of Thrones: quite a few sites stood on for King’s Landing, such as Mdina Gate.

Read on for my Maltese Goth alternative travel and food guide, which encapsulates why the tourism board slogan is accurate… “Malta is More!”

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Malta is a refreshingly affordable destination in southern Europe. From Dublin, London and other UK / Western European cities, you can easily get roundtrip flights to Malta International Airport for $100 or so. I rented a lovely private Airbnb in Sliema for about $40 a day, walked almost everywhere, and had most meals for under $5 (keep reading for street snacks)… talk about bang for your buck.

malta architecture lion statues sculptures windows

I loved walking around and seeing the decadent architecture, particularly from the Maltese Baroque era (17-18th century, when the islands were ruled by the Order of St John). Quite a few had Gothic grotesques, or fierce carved figures on building facades.

malta Sliema Viewpoint view of old mdina city photography spots instagrammable locations

You’ll run into ruins from Malta’s Roman and Byzantine eras as you stroll around. For one of the best photography viewpoints, head to Tigné Point near Sliema’s The Point shopping mall (above). The stores are worth checking out as well, particularly Kiko Milano makeup and Oysho activewear.

ancient city castle fortress buildings malta

The Mediterranean waterfront made me feel like I had time-traveled back into ancient times… I half expected a Game of Thornes dragon to fly out over the stone fortress walls!

spooky haunted malta art goth gothic sculptures

Maltese culture has similarities to that of southern Italy and Morocco / north Africa, but it’s unique in its own right. You’ll notice that the Maltese language has its own distinct script (it’s the only Semitic language written in the Latin alphabet).

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So much art and drama everywhere, from the carved animal door knockers to the crashing waves over the rocks. I appreciated that this wasn’t a tourist-packed place, unlike other parts of southern Europe.

valletta malta narrow city streets stairs staircase

Take the ferry or an inexpensive Uber to Valletta, Malta’s capital. I walked for hours through the narrow, stepped streets, which hold cafes, outdoor restaurants and shops. Valletta is filled with magnificent 16th-century buildings, which were made by the Knights Hospitaller.

malta St Michael satanic satan devil statue art

And leave it to me to find some Goth and naughty elements… I was tickled to see this statue on the left, which shows St Michael grappling with the Devil!

malta devil demon statue satan stepped on lucifer chains

The saint has a chain wrapped around Satan’s neck, and is stepping on him with his muscled legs. I think the naked Devil seems to be enjoying the S&M play… Do we think his face shows pleasure or pain?

lower barrakka gardens ancient roman temple ruins architecture

I was also drawn to the spooky face on top of the Neoclassical temple known as Monument to Sir Alexander Ball.

It’s located in the Lower Barrakka gardens, a picture-perfect garden with fountains, palm trees, and structures inspired by ancient Rome.

malta upper lower barrakka gardens panoramic views

I could imagine the Knights of Malta scheming as they strolled through the Upper and Lower Barrakka gardens (both are free to visit, and located close to each other). Be sure to take in the panoramic view of the Grand Harbour and cannons.

bigilla maltese beans dip malta foods eat

Now, let’s talk about Maltese food — because it was “everything!” I was tickled to try the country’s unique dishes like bigilla, a slightly spicy broad bean dip with olive oil and chili flakes. The lion door knocker seemed to enjoy it as much as I did. (Don’t miss my IG reel about what I ate in Malta.)

malta kinnie sodas, pastizzi pasteries street food

Also a must for bev-heads: try a bottle of Kinnie, Malta’s bittersweet orange soda. The soft drink is made with bitter oranges, wormwood, and herbs, and isn’t overly sweet.

For 1-2 Euro, you can eat your fill of pastizzi, Malta’s famous savoury pastry filled with ricotta, curried peas, chicken, and other ingredients. You can find small pastizzi stands in every major area. I didn’t get to visit the island of Gozo this time, but their pizza is also legendary.

malta hypogeum visit tickets entrance photography, sardines spinach pastizzi

Of course, my favorite Maltese pastries were the ones filled with spinach and anchovies or sardines! I also adored the tuna ftira from Buchman’s Snack Bar (a ring-shaped Maltese bread sandwiched with pink tuna and vegetables). For more Maltese food suggestions, see my Malta food reel.

malta Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum occult oracle necropolis underground temple

One of my main motivations to visit Malta was to explore the archeological ruins, particularly the megalithic temples that date to the prehistoric era. You’ve got to get tickets well in advance to the breathtaking Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, a 3000 BCE necropolis and sanctuary. (You can only enter with a guided tour, which sells out months in advance. Photos aren’t allowed, so here’s a snap from Wikipedia.)

Malta’s underground Hypogeum contained the remains of about 7000 people, and is a mesmerizing remnant of the architecture and spiritual culture of the ancients. The circular carved stone chamber and Oracle Room gave me goosebumps. (The Hypogeum also reminded me of Fellini’s Satyricon, the 1969 film that is a personal fav.)

Ħaġar Qim spiral slab ancient malta megalithic temples

I also wandered the megalithic temples at  Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra Archaeological Park. These religious sites date back to 3600-3200 BCE, and were built on a dramatic promontory overlooking the windy sea.

Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra Archaeological Park malta megalithic temples

The size and arrangement of the stone slabs are impressive to behold. Archaeologists are still untangling the meanings behind Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, which may reference fertility rituals and the solstices / equinoxes.

Ħaġar Qim malta unesco stone slabs occult temple mystery

If you’re intrigued, please take a moment to watch my video about exploring Malta’s ancient ruins.

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I’m still thinking about the incredible food I ate in Malta… I tried Maltese wine for the first time (Meridiana’s crisp Isis Chardonnay).

malta best maltese food authentic restaurant Nenu The Artisan Baker Valletta

I wanted to order everything on the menu at Nenu the Artisan Baker, which specializes in traditional, homey Maltese cooking. Highlights included snails with fresh-baked bread, rabbit fried in garlic, blistered octopus, glazed pork shank…

Nenu The Artisan Baker Valletta malta desserts menu food

… and date fritters with Maltese ice cream. Dining in Malta is affordable compared to other Western European countries, so eat your fill while you’re here. (See my  video about everything I ate in Malta.)

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Malta is a perfect “lie flat” destination — a warm place to chill while on a budget. The landmarks, such as Vittoriosa Waterfront, also don’t feel touristy.

malta weird strange bear trash can sphinx ruin statue

I could have spent more days wandering around and taking in the quirky art — like a crumbling sphinx statue, and cute bear garbage can. (He looks eager for you to put your junk in his mouth…)

St Michael fighting satan devil statue sculpture malta goth satanic

I leave you with the angel dominating Lucifer (who seems to be very much enjoying getting his chained collar yanked!)

Don’t forget to watch my video about what I saw in Malta and the delicious food I had here, on @LaCarmina Instagram.

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Did you know Malta has such a rich and diverse culture, particularly in terms of art, archaeology and food?

PS – you can see more of my travels in various European countries (like the Nosferatu vibes above at Whitby Abbey) in my blog’s Destination Guides, and by adding @LaCarmina Instagram.

Koenji Tokyo Yokai Parade: Japanese spirits folk masks festival! Rick Owens rave, Akabane Reien haunted ghost pub.

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Boo! Ready for more spooky Tokyo, Japan stories? Yukiro and I are delighted to fright you all year round!

My Koenji yokai parade video went viral on @LaCarmina Instagram, and many of you asked for details like — when and where the Tokyo yokai parade takes place next, for Halloween 2024.

koenji yokai parade tokyo dates location address

Read on for the scoop on Tokyo’s otherworldly Koenji Yokai Parade, featuring handmade costumes of Japanese folklore spirits like kappa and oni. I’ll also take you inside Akabane Reien haunted horror ghost izakaya (here’s video of the spooky pub), and the Rick Owens Tokyo fashion rave!

And don’t forget that I’m selling almost everything I own… so if you dig my Gothic fashion / accessories, come see my clearout @LaCarmina Depop and reach out if I can send you anything. (I’m offering free shipping within Canada in Oct!)

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And watch out… Tokyo’s most terrifying drag queens are back for Halloween! My friends Haus von Schwarz are vogueing through The Collapse at “Apocalypstick,” their next Casket of Horrors drag show (10/12 at Shinjuku Heist). Japan’s most elite drag performers are strutting the stage, along with Seileen and DJs.

Tickets and more info here! You may recall I went to this Japan drag queen fiesta last year and had a blast — here’s a video of what went down.

tokyo halloween folklore yokai matsuri festival

Many of you were enthralled by my Insta reel of the Tokyo Yokai Parade, which takes place during the daytime just before Halloween each year in Koenji. In 2024, the Koenji yokai festival will take place the afternoon of Saturday, Oct 26, 2024. The event is free to attend, so no tickets required — you can just show up to see spirits strolling down Shinkoenji-dori shopping street. Address: 3 Chome-36-15 Koenjiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 166-0003, Japan

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Last year, the Koenji Yokai Parade was everything! The participants put such detail and effort into their handmade costumes and masks, which represent ghostly and magic creatures from Japanese folk legends, like the kitsune fox.

Kōenji Awa Odori dance with straw hats dancers traditional

The procession included Kōenji Awa Odori dancers or ren, wearing yukata and straw hats. They performed choreographed hand and dance movements down Shin-koenji Doori street (just show up there in the afternoon and you’ll catch them.)

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Musicians played traditional matsuri instrumental songs (using the shamisen stringed instrument, drums, flutes and cymbals). I spot an oni, or demonic ogre / troll.

komuso basket head wearing monk flute shakuhachi

Love the creativity of traditional folk yokai, or tricksters, monsters, demons, and other supernatural spirits.

komuso wandering monk basket over head play flute warrior

The basket-headed flute player is komuso, or Buddhist warriors (a non-monk) that wore straw basket hats that covered their faces. They play the shakuhachi bamboo flute or suizen, and were deadly characters in the Lone Wolf and Cub series!

scary japanese ghost women yokai masks festival yurei

Here are women in hannya masks (used in Noh theater) to depict jealous ladies. They represent waka onna, or young ladies.

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Some of the yokai parade characters are from the folk tradition, while some are newly created characters.

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Anyone can join the procession if they pay a small fee at the start. Or just watch from the sidelines, and cheer them on while taking photos and videos.

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The paraders truly embodied their characters, moving and acting as if they were possessed.

shinkoenji dori koenji yokai parade when details info

The Koenji Yokai Parade had everything from horned cyber demons to mecha-samurai.

halloween pumpkin mask costume japanese

I was wowed by the imagination and artistry that went into the masks, props and costumes.

scary cat halloween costume japan

This devilish cat got a lot of attention from onlookers!

yokai parade tokyo japan koenji participants makeup

Please watch my viral Koenji yokai parade video to see the festivities in action. Catch the procession again this year (on Shinkoenji shopping street, afternoon of Sat October 26 — add @lacarmina Instagram for info and announcements so you won’t miss it).

Also on Oct 26 – Maya of Midnight Mess is having a party again at Suigeikan Kamakura, and Territory (Taiki-san’s legacy) is spinning all night at Black Veil in Osaka. Check my IG for all the details.

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My favorite time of year to be in Tokyo is October-November because of the great weather and all the Halloween / Goth parties. Last season, Yukiro and I started our all-night rager at a queer horror film event in Shimokitazawa.

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We found an eerily lit hall near the station, which was perfect for our cybergoth outfits.

rick owens rave tokyo book launch japan

Then, we took the train to Shin-Kiba station for a private fashion party held by edgy fashion designer Rick Owens, to celebrate the launch of his photo book with Danielle Levitt.

Please watch my reel of the Rick Owens rave to see loads of Japanese Goth avantgarde fashion!

shin kiba warehouse rave party goths partiers

The “who’s who” of the Tokyo Goth underworld was at the Rick Owens rave, dressed to the nines…

fecal matter dj set tokyo rick owens fashion party matieres fecales japan

… and look who played a DJ set — Fecal Matter, or Matieres Fecales! The design duo from Montreal is known for their avantgarde dark styling.

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We ran into friends from all Japanese subcultures at the Rick Owens all night party — from alternative designers to latex-wearing fetish folk.

tokyo fashion week clubs events afterparty

You know it’s a good club night when half-naked Japanese boys are giving out free bottles of yuzu.

rick owens tokyo japan celebration rave party launch

Much like the Koenji yokai parade, the partygoers went all out with handcrafted outerspace couture. Only in Japan do you see such creative nightlife dressing.

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Pink Harajuku alien style, yesss.

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Of course, Yukiro stood out with his height and neon locks.

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Watch my Instagram reel of the Rick Owens warehouse rave to see these sumo dancers and Fecal Matter in motion.

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Some hater commented “This is absolutely disgusting, barf” on the video… so I pinned it as the top comment! (They’re not wrong…)

haunted theme izakaya ghost pub akabane

Last but not least, Yukiro organized a gathering of his drag Haus of Schwarz at Akabane Reien — a haunted / ghost / horror themed izakaya, which none of us had been to before! As you can tell from the decor and our funny voguing video, it was a frightful delight. (Photos by Alejandro Morales Rama.)

 akabane reien scary horror bar izakaya tokyo

Akabane Reien is an izakaya (small homestyle Japanese pub) with one guy running the show.

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We crammed into the seats to share homey food, and sing karaoke (the random group in the back got quite rowdy!)

ghosts halloween themed restaurant bar pub akabane reien

Akabane Reien is one of Tokyo’s many strange theme restaurants. It celebrates all things creepy and spooky like skulls, cobwebs, horror icons…

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And when you least expect it… Someone (like the disembodied hand) falls towards you with a bang! I screamed as if I were in a haunted house.

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We sang our favorite 80s songs surrounded by corpse limbs and Japanese lanterns (only in Tokyo)…

 akabane reien japanese horror bar pub

I spy Jason, the Scream masks, and more. Watch our video on @LaCarmina IG to see footage of Akabane Reien.

grossest japan tokyo food disgusting meat dish

We had to order this disgusting meat dish… the seaweed and cream make it extra horrific! Hot tip: don’t order the sausage and ham flaps here.

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Enjoy our video about visiting Akabane Reien Halloween-themed restaurant. Be sure to catch Haus von Schwarz – Tokyo’s Goth drag house – at their next Casket of Horrors performance: Sat Oct 12 at Shinjuku Heist! Info and advance tickets are here.

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And thanks to the 1.5 million people that enjoyed my Koenji yokai parade vid! You can add me @lacarmina Instagram for more offbeat and Gothic Tokyo adventures like these.

PS: don’t forget, I’m unloading pretty much all my worldly possessions. Reach out of you want anything from my sale — I’m offering free shipping for Canadians in Oct. I have loads of Goth Harajuku alt punk clothes, jewelry, kawaii toys and much more… come see my listings @LaCarmina Depop. (But no need to use the app, just email me gothiccarmina @ gmail. dotcom and let me know what you’d like!)