Category Archive for Eastern Europe
Vienna Goth clubs, bars, shopping! Cabaret Fledermaus, Nexus Gothic shop & Kingpin pin-up.
I’m tickled pink to hear you are enjoying my Budapest travel posts. It means a lot to hear your feedback.
Our Eurail-Vision train journey actually began in Vienna. The Austrian capital has a reputation for being clean and formal, but leave it to us to find the Gothic grit.
Read on for Sweet Lolitas, a flying bat disco, and a psychedelic Scottish Fold cat!
If you’re planning a trip to Eastern Europe, Vienna is a good place to start. We found it cheaper to fly into Austria (considered part of Western or Central Europe), and then ride the rails eastward to places like Budapest and Belgrade.
My lace black dress is a present from Sourpuss, and my hair was colored and styled by Stephanie Hoy of Avant Garde Hair Vancouver.
Vienna can be a bit expensive so my filmmakers and I walked or went around by subway (the system is excellent). We also stayed in a Go With Oh rental apartment, which is my favorite trick for living in comfort while spending less. (We’ll give you the full low-down in the next post).
On the way to dinner, we walked by the Austrian Parliament Building. This neo-Greek marvel was completed in 1883, back in the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
While my site focuses on subculture travel, I think it’s also important to visit historical places. Focusing on only the modern/edgy can mean missing out on a large part of the experience.
When I find myself in places like this, I’m in awe that blogging has led to a life of traveling. (Photography by Melissa Rundle.)
Some of you asked how these opportunities have come about. It’s been a gradual process (I started this blog in September 2007), with lots of hard work and constant learning. My site began with a Japan fashion focus, and has broadened to reports on alternative art and youth cultures worldwide.
Today, I’m fortunate to work with great companies, tourism boards and international TV networks that make these travels possible. I’m ever grateful to my readers, who have supported and encouraged me over the years.
Onto darker territories. My film team and I walked to Cabaret Fledermaus (Spiegelgasse 2), which means “flying mouse” or bat in German. The original Fledermaus was an Art Nouveau nightclub launched all the way back in 1907!
The club had various incarnations over the years. It’s currently a “disco,” or bar and dance club, near St. Stephen’s Cathedral.
We met up with my local spooks: Eve and Nana of the band Lolita KompleX (remember when they performed in Tokyo?), plus Dani and Pato (both members of Lolita Fashion Austria).
Discotheque Fledermaus has different theme nights including rockabilly, 80s dance, Gothic and synthpop.
The decor is a clue to why this club is a favorite with Goths and Lolitas.
The red light bar served Tabu absinth (Taboo absinthe). Of course, that’s what I ordered.
The long red space had a burlesque feel, with black-and-white art film projections. I wouldn’t be surprised if the ghosts of 1920s flappers were still dancing here.
There’s another excellent Goth/Industrial/Rock club night on Saturdays: Dark Society at Viper Room (Landstraßer Hauptstraße 38). We unfortunately missed it, but you can see upcoming event listings on their Facebook page.
Stumbling back. The U-Bahn (subway) is open all night on weekends and holidays, so don’t worry about partying late.
The next day, Eve and Nana took us on a tour of District VII. Remember my post about Budapest’s 7th District? Funny enough, Vienna’s also has a hipster vibe.
We spotted vegan cafes and ironic-retro stores. This t-shirt looks like my cat Basil Farrow on LSD. (The picture on the left might also melt your brain.)
We ducked into Nexus Gothic clothing store (Zollergasse 13). They had an impressive wall of boots and top hats, and skull-stamped clothes for all sizes.
In addition to accessories such as horror masks, Nexus carries brands such as Aderlass and Skeanimals. Don’t fear the Grim Reaper…
… but look out for the white zombie bride!
Down the street is Kingpin (Lindengasse 37), a pin-up and retro rockabilly boutique.
They carry Bettie Page dresses and other vintage-styled clothing. A great place to find cute shoes and accessories for Gothic Lolita outfits.
Did you know Vienna had so many underground haunts? I leave you with Mata Hari absinthe (oh, the Art Nouveau label!) and our breakfast of fruit and muesli. So, so good.
What do you think of my Sourpuss black lace dress? (You can order one here.)
Check back, as you don’t want to miss the next post… where I join an Austrian Lolita meetup.
SHARE & COMMENT
Budapest Sziget music festival outfit! Emma O Clothing crochet dress, designer Hotel Continental Zara.
Putting aside expectations and stepping outside your usual zone — these can be the most rewarding things you can do.
My video-making trip to Budapest coincided with Sziget Music Festival, an indie-rock event. It isn’t at all Goth/underground like Wave Gotik Treffen or Kinetik Montreal.
Still, why not give it a shot? So I put on a white dress (albeit with a dark twist) and rode the tram to one of the largest music festivals in Europe. Read on to see what my film team and I discovered.
What I wore to an outdoor music festival: this striking handmade crochet, off-shoulder dress sent by Sweden-based Emma O Clothing.
I paired it with strappy shoes by Camper, and a studded tank top from Gladnews in Shibuya 109.
Emma’s designs include an array of crochet dresses, swimsuits and cover-ups in delicate colors. She ships worldwide and gives 60% of all sales to charity in Zimbabwe. You can support my friend via her online store, Instagram and Facebook.
When we checked into Hotel Continental Zara (Address: 42 Dohány St) — we noticed Dizzee Rascal and Skunk Anansie standing next to us! Apparently, all the Sziget festival headliners chose to stay here.
And for good reason: the Art Deco meets modern suites have won numerous awards. Hard to believe that the designer hotel used to be a 180 year old Jewish bathhouse.
On the top floor, there’s a swimming pool and garden with a soaring view of Budapest’s red roofs.
Hotel Continental Zara is located in the hipster seventh district that I previously blogged about. One of the many pluses of staying here: you can easily stumble back after a night of ruin pub hopping!
I was a fan of the hotel breakfast, which included cappuccino machines and my beloved dark European grain breads.
We also had excellent barbecue at the adjoining Araz Restaurant, featuring a retro mural.
After walking around outside in the heat, it was nice to come back, drink fresh lemonade and relax in the air-conditioned lobby.
The courtyard’s black apple is very Evil Queen, no? (I love how you can layer Emma O Clothing in a variety of ways.)
Thanks to Hotel Continental Zara for treating us like rock royalty (prices and more info on their Facebook page).
Since it was so hot, we waited until the late afternoon before heading to Sziget Festival, held on a small island in the Danube River. Every year, about 400,000 people come to this week-long celebration of music and culture.
After the Communist era, a group of students founded Sziget to revitalize the summer concert scene. Today, it’s one of the biggest and best-regarded music festivals in Europe.
Sziget is sometimes compared to Burning Man because of the sense of isolation (only people with passes can enter the island) and trippy art sculptures everywhere.
Everywhere you turned, there was something bizarre to behold. A security guard stood next to this sign, preventing climbers from toppling over the letters.
Like Coachella, this festival has a Ferris wheel. After Skunk Anansie’s set on the main stage, everyone let their balloons go…
… up, up and away. Like rainbow sprinkles in the sky.
There was an endless list of things to do and see, including a beach, yoga, world music, and techno parties. Tip: in order to buy food or drinks, you must first purchase a special debit card.
One of the grooviest attractions was the Luminarium. We took off our shoes and went inside this blow-up tent, not knowing what to expect. Our guide told us we had 15 minutes to explore.
And what a mind-trip! Inspired by Eastern religions, the Luminarium glows with light. We wandered the tunnels, and meditated in the little caves. (Photography in this post by Melissa Rundle and Eric Bergemann).
The festival brought together some of the top indie acts. Among the performances we enjoyed: Bat for Lashes, Nick Cave, Chase & Status, and this Steampunk automotive show.
It’s hard to convey the sense of wonder I felt at Sziget through photos. I hope you’ll get a chance to visit Budapest and see what it’s all about.
On the taxi ride back, we got this King Midas view of Hungarian Parliament over the water. (Tip: research Budapest taxi companies and take reputable ones like City. Ask your hotel or a tourist office to call one for you. Don’t get ripped off by no-names.)
Have you been to a music festival? What was your experience like, and what did you wear?
More Eurail-Vision coverage is on the way. If you’re keen to do a train trip like ours, check out Eurail.com’s student packages and other affordable options. Thanks to everyone for making our travels possible.
LA CARMINA
