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Gothic Mexico City! Brujas witch bar, Mexican top fine dining restaurants, Anahuacalli Museum death gods & skulls.

rhomboid doors museo anahuacalli coyoacan mexico city architect diego rivera

Mexico City, the site of sugar skulls and death gods… Of course I felt right at home in the Mexican capital, and always love coming back for more!

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This time around, I focused on CDMX’s innovative, world class restaurants and bars — along with excursions to the Aztec underworld. Read on for my Mexico City culinary and cocktail recommendations, including a World’s 50 Best bar run by witches. (Above, I was thrilled to return to Balcon del Zocalo in Centro Historico for Chef Pepe Salinas’ latest tasting menu.)

anahuacalli museum exterior tomb temple diego rivera architecture

This was my third visit to Mexico City, and I’m already planning a comeback!

This time, I descended into the underworld of a lesser-known museum… Diego Rivera’s Museo Anahuacalli Museum. Let me tell you, it’s one of the most impressive art / architecture sites I’ve ever visited.

hell altar underworld of Diego Rivera's Anahuacalli Museum in Mexico City

Located in Coyoacán, Anahuacalli is a masterpiece of mid-century organic meets Mesoamerican architecture, and filled with Diego Rivera’s collections of mysterious pre-Hispanic art. Watch the video of my visit to see why I was mesmerized.

skull mosaic ceiling diego rivera anahuacalli museum building

The structure has three floors that represent the underworld, human, and celestial realms.

Of course, I vibed most with the dark, tomb-like hell level with snake and skull ceiling mosaics, and a sacrificial altar!

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I’m standing in front of an altar with a ceramic frog undergoing the Aztec ritual of heart extraction (Rivera’s wife, artist Frida Kahlo, nicknamed him “Frog” because of his amphibitian looks). Surrounded by spooky skulls, snakes and death gods… I wouldn’t mind staying in Anahuacalli Museum’s Mesoamerican underworld.

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Diego Rivera began construction on Anahuacalli in 1942, and the building was not completed until after his death. None of the objects have display cards explaining the years, origins, etc — he wanted visitors to simply “vibe” with the mysterious works from various regions of Mexico. (These ones caught my attention as they reminded me of Easter Island moai.)

mexico city diego rivera frank lloyd wright organic architecture doorways

Anahuacalli is a love letter to Aztec and Mayan imagery, as well as Frank Lloyd Wright-ian mid century organic architecture. There’s nothing “mid” about his bold design choices — the walls are made from rock from the eruption of the nearby Xitle volcano.

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Diego Rivera masterfully used natural light, volcanic stone and ancient forms to showcase his massive, beloved collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts.

mayan mesoamerican architecture rhomboid door frame arch

The sloped arches and rhomboid doors had my heart. (The shapes remind me of the office in the comedy TV show “The Studio.”)

mexican goth demon demonic drag queen

Anahuacalli does a brilliant job at mixing modern media exhibits with ancient artwork. A stuffed demon chomps on a creature in one room, while serpent deity Quetzalcóatl and the god of fire Xólotl gaze upon a Goth drag queen video.

Diego Rivera's Anahuacalli Museum in Coyoacán Aztec Mayan Mesoamerican studio design

If you have a Gothic disposition and a fascination with the old gods, Anahuacalli Museum in Coyoacán is not to be missed!

ancient mexican day dead skulls archaeological pre-Hispanic artifact

Making friends with this row of spooky skulls, which are a regular motif in Indigenous Mexican art and represent both life and death. See the video of my museum visit for more.

frank lloyd wright stepped ziggurat arches museo anahuacalli

Diego Rivera is best known as a muralist, but I was impressed by his skill as an architect. This first floor functioned as his personal workspace and showcases his large-scale Cubist and Post-Impressionist style art.

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There’s a rooftop terrace as well with sweeping views of the surroundings — but I liked the dim, hellish underworld best!

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Anahuacalli Museum in CDMX is a must for anyone obsessed with archaeology and mysterious death cultures like I am. Enjoy the reel of my museum tour for more info.

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Speaking of impressive spaces… Size isn’t everything but man, did I love my elephantine Master Suite with a balcony at Marquis Reforma Hotel and Spa, Mexico City!

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Marquis Reforma Hotel and Spa is CDMX’s only Leading Hotel of the World, and lives up to its designation. Watch my video of my royal stay here.

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I luxuriated in my 775 sq ft suite with patio views of Reforma Avenue, Chapultepec Castle and the Independence Angel. There’s plenty of room for friends here… who wants to crash with me at Marquis Hotel?

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Feeling like a marquise at Hotel Marquis Reforma — check out this plush bed. The location in Roma/Condesa also can’t be beat.

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Highlights: the spa and pool, and my gargantuan patio overlooking the stately Paseo de la Reforma.

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A curtsey to Marquis Reforma Hotel and Spa for a royal stay to remember! (I got these Y2K star shorts while in Mexico City for $13.)

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And now, let’s hop to Goth-friendly bars around Mexico City. My favorite is Las Brujas, ranked on North America’s 50 Best Bars list. Inside the gothic (and possibly haunted) Casa de las Brujas, an all-women coven crafts drinks inspired by herbal healing and the witches that came before them!

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(The following series of bar and restaurant photos are by Rey Lopez.) The drinks are based on Mexican witchcraft and traditional healing practices — and made by brujas with tattoos, dyed hair and dark makeup.

brujas mexico city witch cocktail bar

At Brujas, you’ll notice taxidermy bats, Ouija boards and other demonic decor throughout.

las brujas drink menu cocktails bruja

The cocktails are dark magic concoctions with names like The Devil’s Bride, Queen Witch, Wicked Pact. They’re among the most creative drinks I’ve had in CDMX.

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Brujas’ menu is cleverly desighed like a Witch Quest comic book, filled with stories of witchy women that have become feminist icons. I took an English version one home along with a ghostly pin.

mexican cricket Chapulines martini cocktail brujas

La Matlazihua is a grasshopper martini with mezcal, chamomile liqueur and a dried, edible chapulin insect on top. (I love eating bugs in Mexican cuisine.)

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My fav cocktail was the Reina Vara with passionfruit, herbal liqueur, tequila and an edible paper butterfly on the side.

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Loved bonding with Las Brujas’ witches — they can recognize one of their own!

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Another Mexico City fav is Long Story Short, a hip kitchen, wine and cocktail bar. The music mix, friendly young staff / crowd and mixology inspired by songs and musicians are irresistible.

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Also on North America’s 50 Best bars – Tlecan, which resembles an Aztec tomb with hell lighting and a smiling giant skull altar! Tlecan’s bartenders dramatically prepare drinks like a Pulque Colada and others centered on artisanal mezcal and traditional Mexican spirits.

 garlic shop mexico city central de abasto mercado

To get a better understanding of why Mexico City’s food scene rocks, I visited Central de Abasto, the largest wholesale market in the world. (Rey Lopez took these images and the dining ones further down.)

The piles of fresh produce are a wonder to behold… This garlic store looks like it’s ready to face Dracula, while the carrot seller is prepared to feed Bunnicula!

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Look out for “little devils” running around the enormous market with hand-pulled carts piled with goods. They’re called diablitos for their seemingly supernatural carrying capacity, as well as the horn-like design of the handcarts.

utopias iztapalapa food kitchen communal meals

The market’s district, Iztapalapa, is being revitalized thanks to Utopias community centers. They’re doing incredible work to support locals through recreation programs, healthcare, community kitchens and more.

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Now, let’s eat… Fonico is straight out of a Tim Burton movie, set in a dark manor with a winding deco staircase!

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In this dramatic space, the modern Mexican restaurant serves bright dishes centered on sustainable fish and seafood, and local produce sourced from Central de Abastos market.

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We enjoyed Fonico’s tasting menu with seasonal vegetables and Mexican flavors, paired with Mexican wines (sommelier Laura Santader walked us through a tasting before the dinner; my favs were from Baja wine country.)

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Upstairs is Rayo, another example of Mexico City’s fabulous bar scene. We got to try 10 tinctures from a wooden box to help us choose a drink from their “Mexico Through the Senses” cocktail menu.

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On another evening, we dined with Michelin starred chef Oswaldo Oliva at Lorea in Roma Norte — set in a sleek, multi-level space with an open kitchen.

Lorea chef Oswaldo Oliva cdmx fine dining

Oliva’s ever-changing menu is inspired by his weekly visits to Central market, as well as his experiences cooking throughout Spain. He makes blue corn tortillas by hand on a traditional grill by the kitchen.

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I became a fan of huitlacoche (blue-grey corn fungus with a mushroomy taste), which he served on a fresh tortilla with requeson cheese.

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Another meal to remember: lunch at Maiz Tinto, Chef Ulises Palafox adds his creative flair to Mexican traditional cuisine, and serves his dishes with wine pairings by Brenda Palafox.

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Another fav of mine: Oaxaca stringy cheese! Still thinking of this tlayuda Mexican pizza with pork belly, melted cheese, cured nopal cactus and radish — paired with Valle de Guadalupe Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo.

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At Barolo, local ingredients get an Italian twist like this in-season baby corn with a smear of Taleggio cheese and a dusting of grasshopper powder, paired with bold Italian wines like the namesake Barolo.

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You don’t need to twist my leg to get me back to Balcon del Zocalo, the dazzlingly creative restaurant with a balcony atop Zócalo Central Hotel. Every few months, chef Pepe Salinas creates set menus based on themes like climate collapse and feminist icons — you can read my Observer article and blog from last year about the restaurant.

kypros tequila mexican craft tequilas

We first sat at the bar to sample Kypros Tequila — you know that mezcal and tequila are my liqueurs of choice, so I was happy to discover this women-run artisan label. Kypros Tequila’s agaves come from Jalisco, where they are grown organically and with care.

balcon del zocalo bar restaurant

Kypros stands out from the pack thanks to its meticulous distillation process. The organic, 100% blue agave undergoes double distillation through copper pipes, and is aged in French and American oak barrels for herbal, floral notes. I couldn’t pick a favorite between the white, reposado, and anejo — all in elegant bottles inspired by ancient Greece! (More on the Kypros Tequila site.)

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We sat down to Chef Pepe Salinas’ latest degustation menu, which celebrates 10 years of Balcón del Zócalo. As always, his dishes are visual and gastronomic bangers: this Metamorphosis dish turns peach and manchamanteles (Mexican stew) into hanging “chrysalids” that represent the work and training that lead to blossoming like a butterfly.

 pepe salinas balcon del zocalo chef

The interactive dining experience involves the first bites in the wine vault, as well as visits to the kitchen and his “mad scientist” brainstorming room filled with experimental potions in skull-shaped jars and corkboards tacked with drawings.

(Thank you to Rey Lopez for the food/restaurant images.)

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As always, Balcon del Zocalo delivered a dinner to remember — you must book the seasonal tasting menu if you come to Mexico City.

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I had some time to explore other CDMX culture / history landmarks during my trip. Looks like Mexico City has a new queen… I was feeling right at home at Chapultepec Castle!

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The decadent 18th century Castillo de Chapultepec sits on a hill that was once a sacred Aztec spot, and was the only North American castle inhabited by royals.

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If you’re in CDMX, visit the castle and museum to bask in the neo-Gothic/romantic/classical art and architecture. Tip: dress up and get some shots on the balcony overlooking the capital.

 frida kahlo home museum skeleton demon sculpture

I also went to the iconic Frida Kahlo Museum in Coyoacan. The Mexican painter, perhaps best known for her self-portraits, spent most of her life in this charming blue-walled house.

frida kahlo museum garden coyoacan skull art

It was delightful to get a glimpse of Frida Kahlo’s childhood and artistic development. Many of her works had references to her health issues and chronic pain, such as this skeleton. The home also displayed the favorite artifacts of Frida and her husband Diego Rivera, such as this grinning rictus.

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Speaking of skeletons… they’re everywhere in Mexico City! At the nearby Coyoacan market, you can pick up skull and demon art pieces done in the traditional style.

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The smiling skulls and bright colors are a nod to Mexico’s positive view of death and the afterlife. Rather than being something to be feared, death is celebrated as a natural part of life and ancestors are honored and remembered – especially at the start of November for Day of the Dead.

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El Diablo is present in the culture as well. Representations of the devil tend to have syncretic influences, and emphasize the duality of good and evil.

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With smiling horned Satanic skulls like this, Hell looks like a party!

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CDMX is one of my favorite cities to shop for handmade, local art. Stroll around La Condesa and pop into the artisan boutiques — I took home a curving candle and Puebla coffee beans.

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The Mark of the Beast covers a local radio station as well.

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I recommend getting an Airbnb in La Condesa, my favorite district. It’s laid-back and full of greenery, healthy cafes, hip bars and restaurants, and Art Deco and Art Nouveau facades.

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Head to Parque México and say hi to Fuente de los Cántaros, this 1929 Art Deco fountain of an Indigenous woman.

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With innovative dining, witch cocktail bars, underworld museums, and skulls everywhere — Mexico City is my type of Goth destination! For more travel tips, see all my Mexico blogs here and check out additional recommendations, reels and images on @lacarmina IG. 

Fashion blogger influencer apartment tour! Japanese mid-century modern Miffy, space age furniture, kawaii home decor.

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Welcome to my home! At long last, I can unveil my La Carmina apartment redecoration project — I redesigned the space and brought in new pieces for a mid-century modern meets Miffy and Japanese Zen vibe!

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Read on for all the details of my apartment interior decor, including the scoop on the various pieces and where I got them (many are from my travels around the world).

And I’ll be sharing plenty of fashion blogger home content on my social media, so follow along @lacarmina — starting with this IG reel that gives you a peek inside my living space!

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Update: my mid century modern interior design was featured in Apartment Therapy and Yahoo! See these links for La Carmina’s home tour, which includes stories about my decor inspiration and how I sourced these unique pieces like the Miffy lamp, sun mirror and Brutalist road runner sculpture!

la carmina mid century modern japanese apt living room

As you can see, Miffy the Dutch bunny — my fav mascot — features prominently. Created by Dick Bruna as a children’s book character, Miffy (or Nijntje) is a minimalist design from the mid twentieth century (she debuted in 1955), which fits with my MCM aesthetic.

Above: Maison Deux Miffy wool rug and throw blanket, and Mr Maria XL Miffy lamp.

japanese washi paper floor lamp havenly home lamps

Washi paper lamps also let me add a touch of Japan minimalism to the space. My Havenly floor lantern provides gentle ambient light through its rice paper shade — I love Havenly’s selection of lamps and other modern design objects.

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I removed plastic elements from my space (you know I’m fighting the war on microplastics!) and added in quality furniture made from natural materials to last a lifetime. Behold my Mobital Quasar table with pentagram-like legs, made from stained walnut ashwood and glass! (Check out my visit to Mobital’s showroom to see more of their stylish pieces.)

herman miller tavolo XZ3 eames chairs

As you can see, my apartment design puts my personal kawaii (cute Japan) spin on Mid-Century Modern. I’ve long admired the mid-20th century design movement, which emphasizes organic / geometric forms and modernist clean lines. I chose a classic MCM color scheme for the space: tangerine orange, aqua (light turquoise or teal), and avocado green. I looked for furnishings reminiscent of this era, mostly made with steel wire, paper and wood.

mobital quasar coffee table pentagram legs

If you’re thinking that my home doesn’t look very Goth… then look closer! I didn’t want to clutter my space with plastic Halloween-y decor, or anything too dark (as that can make my tiny apt look even smaller). Rather, I added Gothic accents like this Anatomica book by Joanna Ebenstein, and a pentagram coaster from Kobe’s Satanic Idea bar. (The wood legs of my Mobital Quasar table also look quite like the points of a pentacle!)

miffy lamp rug cute interior decoration small apt

My high-rise one bedroom apartment in Vancouver has giant windows and a balcony, which bring in lots of natural light to make the small space seem larger. The living and dining / kitchen spaces flow into each other to increase the sense of openness — and a UFO-like paper lamp by Vin Lighting floats from the high ceiling.

mcm eames chairs herman miller orange teal metal legs

Anyone who loves contemporary design knows the name Herman Miller. The American furniture manufacturer rose to fame during the 1940s-60s, producing iconic pieces such as the Aeron chair, Noguchi table, Marshmallow sofa, and Nelson bench. Today, they remain the leaders in modernist, experimental home furnishings.

I have two Eames molded side chairs — one of most famous seats manufactured by Herman Miller, and created by Charles and Ray Eames — in Aqua Sky and Orange, with a chrome-finished steel wire base. The metal hairpin legs pair perfectly with the round Magis Tavolo XZ3 table, and a white leather chair my family got in the 90s.

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My sofa adds to the retro modernism: it’s the Cavett Loveseat by Crate and Barrel in Lemongrass Green. The sleek lines, walnut frame and tapered legs are quintessential mid-century modern. Since I don’t have a large space, the smaller size of the Cavett sofa was ideal. (It’s styled with a Miffy Maison Deux wool throw blanket; details of my macrame owl and skull art are further below, so keep reading.)

karinya botanicals talavera de la reyna skull ceramic head

While keeping the vibe minimalist, I accented the furnishings with meaningful, plastic-free decorative pieces. This gorgeous talavera ceramic skull is by artisans at Talavera de la Reyna in Puebla, Mexico (see photos of my visit).

I wanted to add natural greenery to the space, but since I travel a lot and have a “black thumb,” I find it hard to keep plants healthy. This dried eucalyptus bouquet by Karinya Botanicals was the perfect solution — Kathy is an indie Canadian designer who creates gorgeous dried floral and plant arrangements!

maison deux miffy blanket carpet wool throw

The space glows under the lights (see more info further down about my lamps). Details of my Miffy blanket, Line bear lamp by Mr Maria. and hanging Japanese Akari lamp by Vin Lighting.

verner panton wire cube extended montana furniture

Since I have a tiny apt, I had to get creative for my TV stand as traditional ones are far too large and bulky. Instead, I propped my flat screen on a Verner Panton Wire extended module with a custom glass pane on top.

Verner Panton is one my fav furniture and interior designers, famed for his futuristic and curved works from the 1960s and 70s. His Panton Wire modular system lets you arrange chrome cubes of varying sizes as shelves, storage, etc. I filled mine with architecture books, a curved candle from Mexico City, and a sardine bowl from Portugal (to hold the television remote!)

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I have reminders of my global travels throughout my apartment. There are Japan coasters and a moai-shaped glass bottle from Easter Island on my Mobital Quasar table.

easter island stone head decor statues small ceramics moai

I got these stone-faced moai clay figures on my trip to Easter Island (see my blogs about it). They cast shadows on the windowsill next to my row of mini succulents.

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All of the art in my apartment is original — no prints or posters! This powerful spirit painting is by Jón Sæmundur Auðarson, the Icelandic artist behind Dead Gallery in Reykjavik. His art often incorporates skulls and themes of death and spirituality, which is why it resonates strongly with me.

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Here’s another skull / spirit / soul painting by Jón Sæmundur Auðarson, in orange and blue colors that match the hues of my apartment. I’m big on large-scale one of a kind art, and got his pieces custom framed for maximum impact. (Speaking of original art, the macrame owl is a creation by my mom in the 1970s.)

verner panton metal wire cube extended storage montana furniture tv stand

I used to have some plastic furnishings and toys around my space, but got rid of them as I’m trying to minimize exposure to microplastics. If you look closely, you can see architecture, Japan and Yoko Ono books on my Verner Panton / Montana Furniture metallic wire modular shelf.

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I replaced my previous polyester rug with a kilim cotton one. The zig-zagging shapes mimic the legs of my Mobital Quasar table.

(See my IG reel about my apartment for video of everything featured.)

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I styled my coffee table with plastic-free items that spark joy: a jade plant, Japanese coasters, a sardine ceramic from Portugal, and books about Robert Davidson’s British Columbia Haida art as well as minimalist architecture.

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It’s impossible to feel “miffed” when you’re sitting here with this view! (See how my Mobital Quasar coffee table looks like a star or pentagram?)

roadrunner abstract statue puebla talavera skull ceramic sculpture decor

More original art pieces: my dad made this aluminum brutalist sculpture of a road runner while in architecture school. It complements my hand painted talavera skull from Puebla, a witchy candle, and Karinya Botanicals dried eucalyptus leaves in a vase.

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Minimalism meets Miffy and mid-century modern! It’s a balance between decorating a space and keeping it from feeling cluttered and claustrophobic. (The bunny lamp sits on a cardboard cube I got a long time ago that’s now discontinued.)

mr maria xl big miffy lamp, verner panton wire

My extra large Miffy lamp (available here from Mr Maria) is a show-stopper. It comes with a dimmer so you can adjust the lighting intensity.

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These Herman Miller Eames chairs pair perfectly with my round white Tavolo XZ3 table by Magis, the Italian furniture brand that makes designs by Jasper Morrison and Philippe Starck.

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Get the Miffy face carpet here. It’s made of luxurious New Zealand wool by Maison Deux (again, no microplastics are being shed here!)

dead gallery Jón Sæmundur Auðarson painting 90s gold sun mirror

The sun mirror is something my family picked up in the 1990s, when the celestial whimsi-goth era was in full bloom! To make the space visually interesting, I used a variety of shapes, sizes and materials.

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The metallic chair and table legs match the Panton wire shelf and stainless steel kitchen elements. In the living room, the angular wood arms and legs of the Cavett Loveseat by Crate and Barrel mimic the Mobital quasar coffeetable.

havenly wood utensils no microplastics kitchenware cooking tools

My Line Friends Brown bear lamp by Mr Maria looks over my teak wood kitchen utensils by Havenly Home. One of the simplest ways to reduce microplastics consumption is by replacing your plastic cooking tools with wood ones like these.

havenly home Japanese Rice Paper Table Lamp with Bamboo Frame lamps akari

Havenly’s Japanese paper lamps with bamboo frames are also plastic free, and cast a peaceful glowing light after dark.

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The eco-friendly teak wooden utensil set sits next to an original Vincent Castiglia skeleton drawing, and a Tom of Finland exhibition memento I got in Helsinki.

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My Dutch designer friends Mr Maria are responsible for this sweet Miffy rabbit lamp, which uses fire-safe LEDs and has a dimmer. The MrMaria lighting family includes an elephant, polar bear, smiley face, Japanese doll, and other kawaii lamps.

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Here’s how I combine natural light and mood lighting. Note that all my lamps double as objects of art.

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This large oval paper lamp by Vin Lighting hovers above the dining table. Love the Japanese Zen meets futuristic space-y design of Vin’s 70A Akari. You can tell that the paper is a high quality, warm- hued washi — check out their site for a fetching selection of modern light fixtures.

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This macrame owl perched on beachwood also looks over the room. My mom crafted it in the 70s when macrame was trending!

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Pops of mid-century modern color add joy to the interiors. (See my IG reel for video of my apt decor!)

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This isn’t a staged home, so there are “realness” elements like a not so aesthetic portable air conditioner and flat TV. I wanted the space to reflect my personality, and am happy with how it turned out.

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It took a long time for everything to come together, as many of the furnishings are investment pieces — but they’ll last a lifetime. (Table and chairs Herman Miller, sofa Crate and Barrel, coffee table Mobital).

goth skull art Jón Sæmundur Auðarson icelandic artist

I also wanted to invest in original artwork to elevate the interior design. A sliver of light illuminates my spirit painting by Iceland’s Jón Sæmundur Auðarson. (Remember when I visited his Reykjavik gallery?)

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The living room hits different when the weather and time of day shifts.

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An alternate angle of the space, to give a sense of how it all flows together.

pappelina star rug

The entryway has a “walk of fame” stars carpet — it’s a Papellina Viggo Metallic Stone / Vanilla Star rug.

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My Mobital Quasar table glows like a star under the light. (See my showroom visit to Mobital Vancouver for more of their furniture.)

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Tip for styling coffee tables: use a variety of objects in natural materials, in different heights and sizes, for visual interest. Eg: plants, books, paper coasters, ceramics, and glass bottles.

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I love how my apartment decoration came together! What do you think of my revamped space, and how I styled it?

CREDITS: Havenly floor lamp and teak utensils, Vin Lighting ceiling lanterns, Mr Maria Miffy and Brown Bear lamps.
Miffy carpet and throw blanket Maison Deux
Dry eucalyptus bouquet by Karinya Botanicals
Quasar wood & glass coffee table Mobital
Goth spirit paintings Jón Sæmundur
Verner Panton wire extended module, Herman Miller Eames chairs & Magis Tavolo XZ3 dining table, Crate and Barrel Cavett sofa, art from travels (Easter Island moai, Puebla talavera skull, etc). White curved chair and sun mirror from 1990s.

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You’re welcome to Pin these images on Pinterest, and share this post on social media. If you have any questions, please leave a comment and I promise to respond. Please also watch my @lacarmina Instagram reel for video footage of these interiors.

Update: my mid-century modern, tiny home interior decoration was featured in depth by Apartment Therapy and Yahoo!

Thanks for stopping by my apartment! Now tell me or show me: what does your living space look like? 

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