Manchester’s hipster Northern Quarter: Afflecks & Cyberdog! Goth punk shopping, modern British restaurants.

Affleck's Palace manchester england sign

When I announced I was traveling to Manchester, I received a lot of messages that said, “You must visit Afflecks!” To my surprise, there’s an alternative fashion palace in the city’s Northern Quarter, with several floors dedicated to Goth, retro, pin-up, rave, you name it.

I say we take a tour of this hip district, followed by a round-up of Manchester restaurants that shattered my expectations of “bland British cuisine.”

jpop fashion style, punk pop

That day, I went for a “cat in the hat” look. My sweater is Sex Pot Revenge, and my striped hat is Super Lovers (both are Japanese punk labels). My spooky patterened pants are by Killstar (they make a mean studded rocker jacket too).

sex pot revenge japan fashion

“Guilt and Punishment” — gotta love Tokyo clothing that gets a bit lost in translation! (Photography by Joey Wong, at The Light Aparthotel.)

I buy a lot of my clothes in Japan, since it can be hard to find creative Goth/alt/punk clothes in local stores. Manchester residents are lucky: they have an entire building dedicated to edgy street style! 

northern quarter music sculpture

Afflecks Palace has everything a spooky kid needs to survive. I passed by tattoo parlors, experimental hair salons, a poetry slam theater, candy store, and dozens of edgy clothing boutiques.

Address: 52 Church Street, Manchester, England

afflecks mosaics, tiled murals

Outside, there are mosaics that represent notable Manchester musicians, artists, comedians and other luminaries. On the right: a tiled tribute to Joy Division’s Unknown Pleasures album.

(More details on my Joy Division music tour, which included a trip to Ian Curtis’ graveyard.)

manchester street fashion, style

I recommend going through each floor of the building (there are 5 or 6), and browsing the independent shops inside. If you’re into fringe fashion, there will undoubtedly be something that catches your eye.

This neighborhood is wonderful for street style snaps. On the steps of Afflecks, I saw two emo teenagers. Inside, Joey took this photo of Lazuli, a local “singer, seamonster, sequin wearer.” Isn’t her unicorn purse adorable?

steampunk boutique england

Affleck’s Palace opened in 1981, offering low-rent short-term spaces that allowed alternative retailers to flourish. During the 1990s “Madchester” era, this was the place to buy tie-dyed outfits for the weekend rave.

Afflecks continues to thrive with over 70 shops inside, none of which are mainstream brands. The space retains a gritty, slightly chaotic feeling — keeping it true to its subculture roots.

Afflecks Manchester Northern Quarter

If you aren’t anywhere close to Manchester, you can shop for disco fashion and more on Afflecks‘ website. 

cyberdog store, cyber rave shop

Look who’s on the ground floor of the building… Cyberdog! Since the 1990s, they’ve been the leading label for futuristic club fashion. Years ago, I went to the original Cyberdog store in Camden Market London, and was amazed by these designs.

cyber goth fashion, manchester afflecks

Neon Clubwear, Cybertronic, Urban Rave… whatever you want to call it, Cyberdog’s clothing seems to come from another galaxy. Many items use florescent fabrics, UV gear and other unique details.

cyberdog models, rave hair

Joey took these photos of the storekeepers, who rock rainbow hair, harnesses, tattoos and piercings. 

british goth tattoos piercings

The Cybergoth and rave scene was a colorful time… I wonder what the future holds, in terms of new subcultures.

northern quarter retro vintage shops

The entire Northern Quarter district is full of adorable vintage / retro / edgy shops. I couldn’t resist the cute store at Thunder Egg, on Oldham Street.

cute fashion manchester uk

How sweet are their owl purses and homewares?

manchester craft design museum

There’s so much creativity in the Northern Quarter. I had fun browsing the Manchester Craft and Design Centre. Dozens of local artists sell handmade crafts here, ranging from sculptures to textiles. At the entrance, there was beehive-like installation designed for taking the perfect selfie.

Outfit details: My striped punk sweater is by Sex Pot Revenge, and my leggings are Killstar – a dark brand I love.

(Below are my favorites from their latest collection. Click the thumbnails to see more.)

Manchester Craft and Design Centre

What a treat, to wander into different galleries and meet young artisans. We saw cute character illustrations at Ink Inc, like these singing cats.

artist galleries, shops northern quarter

Although this is a Victorian-era building, all of the studios here have a modern feeling. This isn’t your grandmother’s idea of crafting.

union jack hat, british flag

Manchester’s Craft & Design center also holds workshops, exhibitions and other free events.

Photographer Joey Wong took a closeup of my Super Lovers hat from Japan, which bears the Union Jack flag on the back!

english rock band performing outdoors

I recommend spending at least half a day walking around the Northern Quarter. 

Go down a random street, and you’ll come across spontaneous expressions of creativity. My friends and I caught the tail end of this English rock band’s performance.

stewy street artist, mr manchester stencil

The Northern Quarter has developed enormously in the past decades, with much thanks to this fellow: Tony Wilson. You may recall my stories about him from my Manchester Music Tour: he’s the charismatic owner of Factory Records who signed Joy Division and New Order. Tony opened The Dry Bar (FAC 201) in the Northern Quarter back when this area was an industrial wasteland. His club invigorated the Quarter, and led to the explosion of restaurants, shops, and hipster hangouts that exist here today.

(Above is a stencil of “Mr Manchester,” which is his nickname, by British street artist Stewy.)

twiggy street art

Today, the Northern Quarter has a eclectic, bohemian vibe. When the stores close, their roller shutters (which secure the windows) become canvases for street art. 

store front gates art

The Northern Quarter is lined with record shops, and indie / vintage boutiques. Many of them are on Oldham Street. (Again, I’ll take you inside in an upcoming article.)

frank sidebottom street art stencil

Pay attention to the crevices, and you’ll encounter street art gems — like this Stewy stencil of Frank Sidebottom. This is a children’s singer/comedian who wore a giant, creepy paper mache head! 

british mod psychedeic rock poster

Manchester has been a center of music and fashion subcultures in the past decades: mod, psychedelic, punk, Goth, rave to name a few. Small clubs and bars have nights dedicated to music from these eras.

Spaces Invaders, Street Art manchester

It was St George’s Day, so a few pubs were decorated with the flag of England. Notice the teal 8-bit Space Invader in the bottom right? That’s an early work by Invader, the legendary French street artist who made these characters out of tile!

invader tiles, street artist uk

We saw another Invader space-creature in an alleyway. (If you’re intrigued by the development of street art, I recommend watching Exit Through the Gift Shop, a documentary by Banksy.)

northern quarter murals

“It’s the small things”, like this evocative painting on a surprising surface, that give the Northern Quarter so much character. 

retro cool coffee shops, england

Retro-inspired coffee shops and tea houses are a-plenty here. Are you surprised to see a youth district like this, in Manchester?

beef and pudding manchester, british pies

If so, then you’ll be amazed at the food we ate all over the city. Photographer Joey writes, “The UK often gets a bad rap for terrible food, but we were able to try all kinds of cuisines in all different environs. You can be having sushi one night, Chateaubriand another, “sticks and stones” the next, and zebra the following afternoon … all within walking distance from our penthouse in the Northern Quarter.”

Above, we had unique twists on traditional pub fare at Beef and Pudding. They serve staples like pies and mash, but the food is elevated with locally sourced ingredients. Plus, there is an immense selection of English beers and ciders to choose from. Ask nicely, and they’ll let you sample a few!

manchester house, egg nest dish

Another evening was full of twists and turns. We entered what looked like a regular office building. However, hidden on the 12th floor is Manchester House, a fine dining experience from Aiden Byrne, the youngest chef ever to receive a Michelin star.

His modern British dishes will stay in your memory, in terms of both taste and presentation. Take, for example, this decadent mousse with peas and mushroom, served in a real egg shell laid on a nest. I couldn’t believe how much flavor was packed into this tiny serving.

modern british cuisine, restaurant

Our main was as Paleo Caveman as you can get. We shared the tender and beautifully seasoned Belted Galloway beef, which arrived on a plank of wood and with a horn filled with “jus” (gravy). At first, we though those were decorative stones – but they turned out to be potatoes, turned grey through some secret preparation!

molecular desserts britain

Finally, the chef gave pannecotta a molecular touch. We also received a chest of macaroons, which I don’t usually like (finding them too sweet) — but Manchester House made me change my mind by infusing the flavors with blackcurrant, lemon and other fine flavors.

hawksmoor manchester, chateaubriand steakhouse

If you’re looking for a more straightforward but equally stunning experience, we’re huge fans of Hawksmoor. This steakhouse, located in a large historic courthouse, served some of the highest quality beef I’ve ever had. All of the day’s available cuts are marked on a board for you to choose from. Above, you’re looking at 600 grams of Chateaubriand (the thickest beef tenderloin part).

We lapped up every bit of their macaroni side dish and impeccable cocktails (their Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew was my favorite, and comes with a fun story). Special shout out to their friendly service — I’d go back to Hawksmoor in a heartbeat.

whitworth park manchester

One of my favorite meals in Manchester was at the Whitworth Gallery’s new restaurant, nicknamed Cafe in the Trees It reopened in February 2015 following a major redevelopment, which seamlessly integrates the art gallery with the beautiful surrounding park.

whitworth cafe in the trees, museum restaurant

We were greeted by the friendly Peter Booth, who runs the cafe with his award-winning company The Modern Caterer.  The glass structure extends into the landscape, making you feel as if you’re lunching while sitting high up in a tree.

whitworth art gallery cafe manchester

Everything in London is notoriously expensive – but fortunately, this isn’t the case in Manchester. A meal at the Whitworth’s Cafe is remarkable value, considering all the love that goes into the preparation. The photo says it all: Fresh home-baked bread with red pepper soup, salmon sandwiches, bruschetta, market salads, Earl Gray tea.

Leave room for Peter’s much-loved desserts, which are baked fresh every day. The selection is always changing, but his acclaimed brownies are a must. (After, we had a lovely time browsing The Whitworth gallery, near the University of Manchester.)

umezushi manchester sushi restaurant

Manchester has an international population, and you can find any type of cuisine here. There’s even a long stretch called “Curry Mile,” jammed with South Asian, Indian and Middle Eastern restaurants and hangouts.

We even had Japanese food at Umezushi, located in an unusual nook under the bridge. There’s a wide selection of traditional and fusion dishes, from sushi to spider crab tempura. I couldn’t get enough of the juicy grilled hamachi (yellow tail) above!

japanese punk sweater, nail art

I leave you with a close-up of my grunge-punk look of the day, which fit right in with the feeling of Manchester’s Northern Quarter.

Thanks to Visit Manchester for making our trip such a delight. If you’re now keen to explore this British city, you can find travel guides and more on their site.

PS: I’m currently eating my way around Singapore and Bali… let me know if you have tips!


Filed Under England, Fashion


  1. Manchester House
    Posted June 10, 2015 at 5:04 pm | Permalink

    We’re delighted that you enjoyed your visit!

  2. Suz
    Posted June 10, 2015 at 5:04 pm | Permalink

    A great post! You’ve definitely caught the flavour of the UK alternative scene!

  3. PAPA
    Posted June 10, 2015 at 5:04 pm | Permalink

    There is nothing more exciting than a killer trip overseas.

  4. Marie
    Posted June 10, 2015 at 5:05 pm | Permalink

    good luck beautiful :)

  5. Ink
    Posted June 10, 2015 at 5:06 pm | Permalink

    thanks for featuring us & your visit :O)

  6. Gary
    Posted June 10, 2015 at 5:07 pm | Permalink

    as always, you look amazing

  7. 8s8
    Posted June 10, 2015 at 5:07 pm | Permalink

    hey La Carmina, please take a look at my x stitch pieces. I hope you like them.

  8. RJE247
    Posted June 11, 2015 at 11:50 am | Permalink

    Great article. Sounds like you had a good time in Manchester.

  9. rachel kershaw
    Posted June 11, 2015 at 8:57 pm | Permalink

    There’s nothing I don’t love about this blog post. Thank you for sharing some of the best bits of Manchester! Rachel X

  10. Einelorelei
    Posted June 12, 2015 at 1:06 am | Permalink

    I would love to visit Manchester!

  11. Jii
    Posted June 12, 2015 at 7:52 am | Permalink

    Was really interesting for me to see

  12. Hannah
    Posted June 12, 2015 at 7:53 am | Permalink

    Ahh love the northern quarter! You should have come to chorlton for drinks & cafes too, so different from every other place in Manchester x

  13. Sandre
    Posted June 12, 2015 at 7:54 am | Permalink

    Northern Quarter is the best part of the city.

  14. Crew
    Posted June 12, 2015 at 2:22 pm | Permalink

    Cyber dog :)

  15. Alsus
    Posted June 16, 2015 at 3:18 am | Permalink

    This is one of my favorite outfits of you

  16. jabet
    Posted June 16, 2015 at 3:19 am | Permalink

    Eep! Can’t wait to see your photos from Singapore and Bali !!!!

  17. Daniel
    Posted June 16, 2015 at 3:19 am | Permalink

    I think I saw you maybe? In the Afflecks area

  18. sam.shue
    Posted August 25, 2015 at 12:55 pm | Permalink

    Now that Cyberdog Harajuku is no more, which stores/brands in Tokyo would you recommend for similar stuff?

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