My food tour of Quebec City: young, hip Quebecois restaurants! La Planque Limoilou, Chez Muffy, Le Voisin.
Ouais, ouais… I had a delicious time in Quebec City! Ready for a guide to the best restaurants and art in the French-Canadian capital?
I haven’t been to Canada’s Francophone province since a brief stop here as a teenager. Growing up, I went to a school with a bilingual program — so this trip gave me a chance to practice speaking “en français” again.
(Where to get what I am wearing: Black bucket hat by Lack of Color, platform shoes Rocket Dog, top Valfre from Forest Ink, skirt Charli Cohen.)
Most travelers know about Quebec City’s historic sites, such as the Hotel Fairmont Château Frontenac. (Built by architect Bruce Price in 1892, these pointed castle spires are unmistakable.)
However, Anthony Bourdain’s food / travel TV shows showed Quebec City in a trendier light. He partied with young (and rather wild) Quebecois chefs, and feasted on dishes piled with hearty, experimental ingredients.
As I discovered, Bourdain was right. Quebec City is the ultimate destination for foodies. Read on for my restaurant recommendations, with lots of decadent photos.
First, let’s take a stroll around Quebec City’s old town. The city is small and highly walkable, with plenty of old buildings and statues to admire.
I was surprised to see a statue of Confucius, the Chinese philosopher. The monument was a gift from Quebec City’s sister city, Shandong; they participate together in a university exchange.
Quebec City is far more “French” than Montreal, in terms of the culture and feeling. You can get by speaking English, but locals predominantly communicate in French. I’m sure you will notice a different accent and use of slang too!
(I popped into Simons, the Quebec-based department store. This French Windows 98 “Fenêtre98” t-shirt made me laugh.)
While walking around, I ran into a colorful parade that reminded me of my adventures in Binche, Belgium. Quebec City has quite a few carnivals, including the famed winter “carnaval” with its rather frightening Bonhomme snowman mascot.
Dressed in tufted collars and pointed feather hats, these men danced through the streets. They were accompanied by a live marching band.
I also came across Belgian stilt walkers that were demonstrating Namur stilt-fighting. Dressed in folky red costumes and caps, they try to knock each other off their pedestals to the beat of a drum. I didn’t stick around to see the winner, but he apparently receives “golden stilts.”
I lucked out with the weather — just as the rain began to pour, I arrived at Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec! Located near the Plains of Abraham, the MNBAQ currently has an enormous exhibition dedicated to artist Joan Miró.
I was especially keen to visit… because the new Pierre Lassonde pavilion was designed by Rem Koolhaas and his team at OMA.
The architect’s signature is unmistakable in the stark glass exterior and curving white staircase. Doesn’t this look like a ramp from a spaceship?
The Musee des Beaux Arts houses an impressive collection of Quebecois art, including 25,000 works by locals. The museum is large and has various pavilions; I highly recommend that you take time to visit the outstanding Quebec section.
I enjoyed seeing the eccentric visions of contemporary artists like Jean-Paul Riopelle and Jean Paul Lemieux. The latter JP is responsible for “Les Masques” (above), a 1973 expressionist painting that caught my attention.
The MNBAQ had an entire exhibition dedicated to Spanish painter and sculptor Joan Miró. Dubbed “Miro in Mallorca: A Free Spirit,” this special gallery includes almost 200 works from his 1956 to 1981 era in Mallorca.
What a joy to see so many of Miro’s works including sculptures, sketches, and even a rug. The exhibit is well-designed, with each room focusing on one of his styles, and including information in French and English. Above shows his Gaudi-influenced period that expresses Catalan pride.
My outfit matched Miro’s giant abstract paintings from his minimalist series. These black and white works attempt to capture “the void,” or all-encompassing emptiness, as expressed by Tibetan mystics.
Much like me, Miro found inspiration in his travels worldwide. He loved visiting destinations with strange cultures and art, like Easter Island and the Yucatan.
On the left, this series drew upon his travels in Japan, where he was fascinated by Japanese ink calligraphy. The beast on the right is merges his artistic style with tribal primitavism.
Stars, birds, women… Miro’s energetic paintings are a wonder to behold in person. I hope you get a chance to see his touring works while they’re in Quebec City.
And now, let’s eat! I consulted long-time locals for recommendations, and they delivered: I could easily imagine these Quebec City restaurants on an Anthony Bourdain TV show (RIP).
I’m a big brunch fan, so I was especially keen to spend a morning at Chez Muffy. The cozy restaurant takes a farm to fork approach, building seasonal menus around ingredients grown on their farm at Île d’Orléans.
(As a fan of Miffy the bunny, I also liked the name… Looks like she’s slurping most of my orange bourbon cocktail!)
I’ve been to decadent buffets around the world, but the quality level has been hit and miss especially at hotels. In contrast, at Chez Muffy, everything was executed beautifully — my mouth waters as I remember the fresh spread of French specialties.
At the ordering station, you could get eggs Benedict with duck confit, pork belly, or smoked salmon. Everything is made fresh to order, and the Hollondaise sauce was on point, which is difficult to achieve.
I channeled George Costanza, and bit into these hunks of Quebecois cheese. The fine “fromages” come from local farms, and include blue and goat (chevre).
When you have brunch at Chez Muffy, you can indulge in as much as you’d like from the buffet. It’s the perfect chance to try a bite of something different, like truffle devilled eggs or black sausage with gooey cheese inside.
True to Quebec, everything is written in French and English, and includes healthy bistro-style selections. As you can see from the colors of this beet salad, the dishes are house-made with produce straight from the farm.
Chez Muffy is located in Auberge St Antoine, a luxury hotel by the St Lawrence river. The restaurant sits in what was once a 19th century maritime warehouse; the classic wood beams and iron stairs hint at its former incarnation. In the lobby, you see artifacts dating back to the 1600s, which were discovered during an archaeological dig at this location.
Pile up your plate with quiches, roast beef, salads, and charchuterie. From the a-la-carte menu, you can order coffee drinks or cocktails.
Be sure to sample items from the baked goods section. I don’t usually have much of a sweet tooth, but I couldn’t get enough of Chez Muffy’s unique pastries. (Kudos to the pastry chef here.)
Among my favorites were the scones (the texture and balance were perfect — Muffy made probably the best scones I ever had). Quebec is known for its strawberries, and the unusual strawberry tart with hemp was outstanding.
One evening, I had dinner at La Planque, and it rocked hard! I could see Anthony Bourdain living it up in this restaurant with a punk spirit.
La Planque is located in Limoilou, a hip neighborhood of Quebec City known for its bars and eateries. Try to get a seat at the kitchen counter, so you can watch head chef Olivier Godbout (on the right) and his young, tattooed colleagues do their thing.
In 2018, La Planque underwent a renovation. The new interior is dark and stylish, with a giant spider-like wood lamp over the bar. If you aren’t able to get a dinner reservation, you can still hang out at the circular counter, and sip on creative or classic cocktails.
(My wrap top is Valfre from Forest Ink, and skirt Charli Cohen.)
Chef Olivier started us off with an amuse bouche with a mustard-based sauce. From this first bite, we know La Planque would live up to its reputation.
It was a delight to perch over the kitchen, and see the cooks work in tandem at different stations. Olivier chatted with us between plates, and explained that everyone takes part in all the tasks (from shucking oysters to clean-up), including himself.
We whet our appetites with this eye-catching dish — just look at the variety of colors and textures. Olivier combined scallops from Nova Scotia with radish slices, squid ink mayo, and grapefruit pieces.
If you’ve seen Bourdain’s episodes about Quebec City, you’ll know that the local chefs shine when it comes to meat and rich flavors. One of La Planque’s specialities is their foie gras terrine, masterfully paired with fruit chutney, honey apricot puree, and toasted brioche.
The name “La Planque” means a stash, or a place where you can keep warm and find shelter. In the basement, up to 10 people can rent out the private dining room, which doubles as a soundproof hideout.
It was fun to chat with Olivier and see him in action. He’s focused and thoughtful about every dish he makes.
Olivier insisted that we try the thinly-sliced asparagus. The green vegetable is currently in season, and he hand-picked each piece from a local supplier.
The special cocktails were also very Quebecois. One was made with the famous small strawberries, and served in a vintage glass. The other had duck fat whiskey, orange, scotch, ginger.
It’s a good thing we were hungry after a long day of sightseeing. Onward to the catch of the day, a white fish with pasta and delicate vegetable foam. On the right: cornmeal encrusted sweetbreads with king mushrooms, turnip puree, and thyme sauce.
Put your trust in the staff for a wine pairing, and they’ll suggest a global variety to match each dish.
Breakfast for dessert — why not? The granola came with house-made yogurt, white chocolate crumble, ice cream and berries.
Rock on, Olivier and his team. I’d take shelter at La Planque restaurant any time.
Somehow, I had room for one fabulous last meal. I ate lunch at Le Voisin a casual “resto-buvette” that spotlights seasonal, Quebecois cooking. Loved the exposed brick walls, industrial elements and panes that let in natural light.
(Here’s where to find my exact wrap top, maxi skirt, and platform shoes.)
Le Voisin, which means neighbor, is a perfect spot for dining with friends (they serve brunch/lunch and dinner). This artful arrangement features poached eggs with salmon gravlax, blinis, tzaziki sauce, and capers.
The drinks were outstanding, especially the creamy lattes and ginger mimosa. The freshly-baked bread comes with apple butter, and I was delighted to see pomegranate seeds in my berry and apple fruit bowl.
I dove into this pan of gnocchi with tomato sauce, grilled vegetables, and two poached eggs — topped with shaved Parmesan. Le Voisin is a wonderful bistro with a neighborhood feeling, where you can find familiar dishes with a twist.
A final look at the Chateau Frontenac and my outfit of the day. (Wearing this bucket hat by Lack of Color, platform sandals Rocket Dog, ballerina wrap shirt Valfre from Forest Ink, skirt Charli Cohen.)
À bientôt, Quebec City… Anthony Bourdain was right about your formidable food scene. I’m sure I will be back soon to discover more of your restaurants.
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Miffy x Ghostly clothing collaboration! Weird Egyptian art at Valley of Kings tombs, Queen Hatshepsut, Luxor temple.
Goths adore ghosts… and Miffy the cute bunny… so why not bring the two together?
The twain have in fact now met: Miffy has a spook-tacular fashion collaboration with Ghostly!
Let’s start this story with the new Miffy new clothing line. Then, we’ll continue my Egypt Travel Talk adventures by descending into the tombs of pharoahs, and traversing the temples of queens.
Who’s that haunting my t-shirt? As you know, I adore Miffy the cute bunny character from the Netherlands. She teamed up with Ghostly International, an indie music, art, and street fashion company, for a clothing collab. (Above is the print on the back of my shirt.)
The merging of Miffy x Ghostly is perfection. Both have cute mascots outlined in black and white, and take a playful, minimal approach to their designs.
Ghostly’s sceptre logo floats over the center of the top. Can you spot Miffy peeking out from behind the yellow square? (This is a size S unisex shirt, which I hemmed for a cropped look.)
The Miffy / Ghostly limited edition collection includes four t-shirts, a hoodie, and a tote bag — I want it all! Everything is printed in the USA, and features original bunny illustrations by Dick Bruna, with a fun Ghostly spin.
Everything’s available on the Ghostly International website; go swoop these up before they’re gone.
I also wanted to share my early birthday gift to myself… I nabbed these Acne Studios platform python boots! The monochrome snakeskin is easy to match with outfits, and the Chelsea-style ankle booties are easy to slip on and walk in.
These Acne leather platform boots are currently 60% off here, in case you wanted to get a pair and match me… it’s a crazy good deal.
I was also tickled pink to receive a copy of Moonsprout Station — it’s a comic by Naomi Rubin (my First Mate who works with me on our crazy TV productions around the world). She created this hopeful fantasy comic about queer identities and relationships, which takes place in a sweeping, mysterious natural setting.
In her words: “Moonsprout Island is a diverse place where queer characters “just are” and their identity isn’t questioned or stigmatized. I talk about issues and questions that are important to me without harmful fantasy tropes.”
Naomi has made Moonsprout Station free for anyone to read online here, “because I want hopeful, comforting queer narratives to be available to anyone.” You can also read the full pages on Webtoon and Tapas.
She has also published Foggy Mountain Letters, a chronicle of our recent adventures in Asia, as well as shooting with German TV in Tokyo. Above, you might recognize the crazy monster character we featured on the show!
“In the Summer of 2018, I went to Japan for a job with my swashbuckling captain La Carmina, and afterwards we got to travel for a bit around Japan and Thailand. I got to do lots of drawings on the trip but didn’t know how to put them in my comic – so I started mailing letters and drawings about our travels to my own fantasy characters. It got kind of out of hand, and now it can be in your hands!”
I hope you’ll consider supporting Naomi’s art and mission — these comics are a joy to read, and let you peek into our alt universe! The print books also include bonus stories and extras that you can’t see online.
You can get a copy Moonsprout Station here, and Foggy Mountain Letters here. Great news, La Carmina readers have a special promo code / voucher: 2 dollars off each, with the coupon code “basilmrao”!
You can also support Naomi Rubin via her Patreon, a “members-only sketch blog and tool shop, where I post sketches, artwork, and drawing resources that I don’t post anywhere else.”
Now, let’s hang out with the ghosts of ancient Egyptian pharoahs! While in Egypt with with Travel Talk Tours, I got to see one of the country’s most impressive archaeological sites: the Valley of the Kings.
If you are especially intrigued by strange Egyptian rituals and tomb art, then this burial ground cannot be missed.
The Valley of the Kings is located just outside Luxor (the ancient settlement once called Thebes). The Egyptians may have chosen this as a royal burial site because of the pyramid-like peak (on the left) in the Theban Hills.
To this date, archaeologists have excavated 63 tombs here — and many more mysteries lie beneath the sandstone. Every year, they discover new treasures, which lead to more questions than answers.
The Valley contains the tombs of some of Egypt’s most famous pharoahs (Seti I, Ramses II, King Tutankhamun) as well as their wives, children, and some nobles.
Notice the cat in the middle of these god-figures… kitties were considered sacred and treated like divinities back then.
The art that covers the burial chambers is wild, especially considering that they date back thousands of years (16th to 11th centuries BCE).
Yukiro and I were captivated by the stars that covered the ceilings, as well as the devilish horned gods and Sphinxes.
Since these royal graves were so well-preserved under the mountain, you can still see the original pigment of the bas-reliefs. Most people think of Egyptian wall carvings as colorless, but in fact, they were painted in brilliant shades.
No wonder the ancient Egyptians are associated with death, aliens, and the occult… just look at these bizarre paintings. Who (or what) are they hailing?
I focused on snapping photos of the weirdest, creepiest artistic elements for you. The scarab-head god, Khepri, is quite the spooky sight… The ancient Egyptians had quite the imaginative pantheon of animal-headed gods!
One of the many benefits of Travel Talk Tours was the ease of visiting sights like Valley of the Kings. Our group arrived here by bus, and our guide got our tickets so we didn’t have to wait in line.
The general ticket lets you visit three tombs (different ones are open to the public at different times; usually you can choose from around 10). If you want to take photos inside, you also have to purchase a photography pass.
King Tut’s burial site (KV62) also requires a separate ticket. While most of the royal chambers had been looted over time, the famed tomb of Tutankhamun was discovered nearly intact in 1922 by Howard Carter. You can still see his mummified body inside, but not the famous blue and gold death mask and treasures (those are in various museums worldwide).
Unfortunately, due to a mix-up, we didn’t receive a ticket and weren’t able to enter… looks like the “curse of the pharaohs” lives on…
Nevertheless, we got to wander through three other Valley of the Kings tombs, which were covered in mysterious spiritual renderings. The three-headed snake with legs and ankhs drew our attention.
Aren’t the rich colors outstanding (and surprising?) Most of the Valley of the Kings tombs were desecrated ages ago, and the treasures have gone missing. However, the decorated corridors remain in remarkable condition.
In their heyday, these hieroglyphics were likely rainbow colored! The ancient Egyptian writing system was remarkably advanced.
Most of the tomb artwork shows the dead’s journey through the night, and into the afterlife. The pharoah had to travel safely through the underworld by boat.
Then, the king would have his heart weighed against a feather. If the scale found his soul to be lighter, Osiris would receive him into eternal life.
The ankh, which symbolizes life, is favorite of Egyptians — as well as vampire and Goths. These ankhs are so powerful that they have arms!
Egyptian symbolism tends to appeals to Goths, as there are many occult leanings, and deadly or horned creatures.
Case in point: coiled cobras and Anubis, the jackal god of death and embalming.
What’s the deal with these headless creatures? And how odd are their poses…
I tried out this new “walk like an Egyptian” posture.
I wore a hat from Tenth Street Hats, wide legged pants by Charli Cohen, and a heart Hope bag by Lola Ramona.
Ready for the Satanic connection?
The depiction of Baphomet is based on the Egyptian ram god pictured above. He was known as Banebdjed, and had a cult of worship at Mendes; in Upper Egypt, his name was Khnum.
This devilish ram-headed god is found on the walls of many chambers and corridors.
At other Egyptian temples, the depictions of figures is relatively “standard.” However, in the Valley of the Kings, things get literally topsy-turvy.
Plus, there are racy elements. I think you can guess what got scratched out…
Well that’s an… interesting way to take a shower. (I’m guessing you will only find photos of Egyptian oddities like these on this blog!)
Here’s Thoth as a baboon, hailing Anubis (watcher of the dead) and the horned one.
The Valley of the Kings let us get a deep look into the esoteric beliefs and rituals of the ancient Egyptians. To this day, we don’t understand all the mysteries in these tombs.
Watch out, there’s a scarab dancing on your head! Despite his eerie look, the black beetle god Khepri represented the rising sun and creation of life.
Gotta read em all… Most hieroglyphs were phonetic, meaning that a picture-symbol corresponded to a particular sound.
(Yukiro illustrates this with his Pokemon cap — R for Team Rocket!)
Most of the tombs burrowed deep into the mountain, with the tunnel ending in a shrine to the dead. This one held a giant stone sarcophagus decorated with jackals.
I’m sure you can see why we were captivated by the Valley of the Kings. I’m still wrapping my brain around the wonderful weirdness we encountered.
On the same day, Travel Talk Tours took us to see Queen Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple, which is also in Luxor.
The powerful Egyptian queen ruled from 1507–1458 BCE. While she technically joint-ruled with her young son Thutmose III, you can say she was the one who wore the beard and held the whip!
The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut featured a chapel dedicated to Anubis, jackal-headed god of mummification.
I was glad to have my Tenth Street Hats sunhat to shield me from the sun. My pants are Charli Cohen, and this heart and bow purse is Lola Ramona.
The Egyptians were so progressive that Hatshepsut was the third woman to become a pharoah and rule the country. However, she stands out because she was the first to have full power.
Her temple also breaks ground by showing the divine birth of a female ruler through art.
The funerary temple includes this wall, showing an offering to Horus. Note the stars on the ceiling once again; the ancient Egyptians had a keen interest in astronomy.
Walk up the stairs, and you’ll be greeted by a row of bearded ladies. The pillars show Queen Hatshepsut as Osiris, god of the afterlife and the underworld.
Hatshepsut is depicted with all the symbols of a powerful pharoah. She wears a false beard, and the “bowling pin” double crown that signifies her power over all of Egypt.
The queen also holds a crook and flail, which were derived from farming tools and show her rule over the people. (They also look quite a lot like dominatrix equipment!)
We’ll end with a final temple: Luxor after dark. I recommend visiting Luxor Temple at night, as the temperatures are cooler and the statues are illuminated in a haunting way.
This temple was an important religious site, and conveyed the power of Egypt’s pharoah (it was likely the coronation site as well). Imagine how an ancient civilian would feel, standing in front of the colossal pylon entrance, obelisk, and king statues.
Even in this modern age, you can’t help but feel floored by the gigantic seated statues of Ramses II. He wears a royal nemes headdress topped by the double crown, and has a uraeus (rearing cobra) at his forehead.
Luxor Temple was constructed by a succession of pharoahs around 1400-1200 BCE, including Amenhotep III, Tutankhamun, and Rameses II.
Cower past the giant seated statues, and you’ll reach the court of Ramesses II. The pharoah is shown at different ages, and stands stiffly next to the columns.
As you wander through Luxor temple, be on the lookout for fine carvings. Love the elegant rendering of these flying birds.
Our tour guide also pointed out cartouches, or ovals encircling hieroglyphs that spelled out a royal name.
Ramses II truly knew the power of scale, in the temples that he built and number of children that he fathered. (Remember our visit to Abu Simbel, which was dedicated to him as well.)
Our guide pointed out this statue of King Tut and his wife Ankhsenamunat, who was also his half-sister. Tutankhamun, son of Akhenaten, became king at age 9 and died at age 19. They had two daughters together that were stillborn with defects (likely from inbreeding).
Luxor Temple is enormous, so we were glad that our Travel Talks guide showed us the major attractions, before giving us time to roam freely.
He pointed out this 4000 year old bas-relief of the god Min. Did the Egyptians somehow know about the shape of a sperm, thousands of years before microscopes were invented? (Cue the alien conspiracists…)
Later on, Alexander the Great conquered Egypt. He added a granite shrine to Luxor Temple, presenting his rule as legitimate.
What do you think ankhs taste like… birdseed? (This cross-like symbol gives the soul the breath of life, to bring them to the afterlife.)
With stiff shoulders like this, Ramses II looks like he could use a massage.
I hope you’re digging our tales of Egypt with Travel Talk Tours. Their 18-30 something group tours are led by a local, and are a fab way to see the most impressive ruins in the country.
Alas, I only have one post left from this trip, but it’s a good one… Cairo’s Egyptian Museum awaits.
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PS: I was honored to be interviewed by Travindy about sustainable travel! I shared my thoughts on showcasing offbeat sites, issues with over-tourism, and how technology can help combat these problems.
PPS: a clip of my new Acne snake-skin leather ankle boots in motion. They’re crafted in Italy, and have a chunky platform sole / heel for an edgy look.
You can find these Acne platform boots here for 60% off, along with other major reductions on designer fashion right now. Happy shopping!
LA CARMINA
