Shinjuku, Tokyo Gothic Lolita kawaii shopping guide! Marui Annex 0101, Sanrio Hello Kitty stores, Don Quixote.
Hello, it’s been a minute! I was MIA because I flew somewhere for a major TV appearance… I can’t talk about it yet, but I’m thrilled to be back to the land of television, and will share the details with you once I can.
Thank you again for the love for “The Little Book of Satanism!”
Featured in Forbes | Publisher’s Weekly | Dazed – The Little Book of Satanism is an accessible guide to Satanic culture, history and ideas. Little Baphomet seems to like it…
See more details about my latest book here, as well as links to many retailers (it’s available worldwide in paperback and digital, and published by Simon and Schuster). Thanks to everyone who read it and reached out — it’s amazing to see my book on the shelves of Barnes and Noble, Powells, and other bookstores!
And more good news… a Spanish version of “The Little Book of Satanism” will be out soon! Some of you asked about translations of my book, and Ulysses Press made it happen.
“A thoughtful, concise examination of the history of the devil [that] cuts through the Satanic Panic myths that are still prevalent today.” – Forbes Magazine. See more info about my book here.
I’m also happy to see that many of you are traveling to Japan once again, now that the country is open to tourism. I was in Tokyo and other areas last August/September, and still have tons to share.
I’ll begin with a cute / Goth / alt shopping guide to Shinjuku, as I hope this might be useful to you when you travel to Tokyo! Read on for a tour of Marui Annex, Studio Alta, Don Quixote, Sanrio stores, and more.
Everyone knows Harajuku is the center of youth / alternative fashion, but Shinjuku has tons of pop culture boutiques as well. Whenever I’m in Shinjuku, I stop by 0101 Marui Annex department store to peruse the latest funky shops — like the Godzilla boutique!
The ground floor pop-up is dedicated to all things “Gojira” and his fellow dai kaiju. Find Mothra t-shirts, Godzilla head statues and other monstrous delights.
The bottom floor of Marui Annex also holds the Cinnamonroll Cafe. It’s a theme cafe dedicated to the cute bunny Sanrio character with long floppy ears.
You can dine on ice cream parfaits and curries shaped like Cinnamonroll’s face, and sit at a table with one of the large plush toys.
The old Marui One Shinjuku was a treasure trove of Gothic and Lolita fashion. Today, this style is less popular and many labels dissolved — but Marui Annex still has a good number of kawaii and Loli boutiques in a single location, such as Milk.
I found a pentagram, Satan silhouette and “Vampires” shirt at Milk Boy. Equally scary is the rack of Miffy socks from the bunny-themed boutique in Marui Annex!
Walk around the multi-floored Marui Annex, and you’ll come across lots of cute mascot goods like these.
An entire store contains merch from lesser-known kawaii characters.
Marui has art displays as well, such as these cardboard anime devil ladies.
You know you’re in Shinjuku when there’s cuteness everywhere you look.
The seventh floor of Marui 0101 Annex is home to multiple boutiques that represent Harajuku, Jpop and Kawaii culture.
These include Emily Temple Cute, which has been around for ages…
… and my personal favorite, Kera Shop. The racks carry a variety of designers, and the fashion leans towards the darker side (Goth, punk, metal).
Even if the subculture is smaller now, the alternative handmade fashion remains inspiring — case in point above.
Mana’s Moi-meme-moitie brand has a presence at Kera Shop on the 7th fl of Marui Annex.
As you can see, the old school Kera Magazine / Gothic Lolita Bible styles are still alive (or undead).
Angelic Pretty is as pink and candyland-frilly as ever.
Alice in the Pirates still brings the fierceness with black and red rock asymmetry.
Jirai Kei is currently all the rage — you’ll see a lot of young Japanese wearing dark girly styles like Amavel.
But there’s something for every type of alternative dresser at Marui, including urban and rave garments.
Speaking of undead vampires… I ran into an exhibition by Hyde, J-rock lead vocalist of L’Arc-en-Ciel in the 1990s.
“Fantasmagorie: The Ghost Show 1799” displays gentleman-meets-Jrocker outfits and videos made in collaboration with Hyde.
Marui Annex is the best one-stop shop for alt fashion in Shinjuku. However, there are many other department stores in the area worth perusing — including Lumine, Keio, and others near the station.
I ran into a Miffy × Samantha Thavasa wallet / bag collaboration…
… and a Samantha Vega x Sanrio characters collab! I was tempted to get this studded black Kuromi tote purse.
Happy to report that Kuromi is dominating Tokyo. You can find her memorabilia everywhere, including in Don Quixote.
Donki is, of course, the giant Japanese “general store” packed with everything from mascot socks to snacks and adult toys.
I always stock up on skincare and other necessities at Don Quixote. The Shinjuku location is rather packed, but has everything including Keroppy face masks. (Go to the Shibuya Donki for a more peaceful shopping experience).
Shinjuku has multiple Sanrio stores. Yukiro and I were a bit puzzled by the Sanrio x Sailor Moon collaboration… they did Sailor Jupiter dirty!
Of course, Sailor Mercury got the Kuromi Goth treatment.
From Shinjuku, you can also easily hop over to Ikebukuro to check out additional kawaii stores in/around Sunshine City. I had to stop by Flower Miffy.
The name says it all. Miffy flower bouquets and other home goods.
I always stay in Shinjuku, as there’s so much to see, eat and do here.
The Kabukicho red light district never fails to please… Who wants to see the BJ Group BJ boys?
This is the area for host clubs and silly host boys like the fellow above.
Studio Alta (across from Shinjuku station east exit) isn’t as funky as it used to be. There are only a few alt stores now, like the one above.
I’m digging this Hello Kitty skirt, beanie and sweater combo.
Oversized sailor shirt with Kuromi in purple, yes please.
And here’s a Satanic bunny with a pentagram and caduceus.
The Hello Kitty store “Gift Gate: Elegant Shinjuku” is another classic stop. Snap a photo with the big Kitty statue outside.
Inside, there are all sorts of Sanrio goods and displays like Hello Kitty in a wedding dress.
I was in Japan right before Halloween, so I got to see slightly odd spooky designs like the above. (Of course, Hello Kitty is the devil while Kuromi is a maid.)
As for food… Shinjuku has it all. The Baskin Robbins next door to Gift Gate has smiling Pikachu cakes, as well as other Pokemon characters.
I’m fond of Coco Ichiban curry, conveyer belt sushi, and takoyaki (there’s a stand near the Godzilla Hotel in Kabukicho).
And don’t forget the many dollar stores and game centers! Wander around and pop into a few arcades — I came across Miffy in this UFO gaming machine.
I hope you enjoyed this updated Shinjuku shopping guide. Let me know if you make it to Japan this year, and what else you’d like to see on my blog! And you can always reach me at @lacarmina social media.
PS – I’m honored to be featured by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government! In this interview, they highlight my work in Japan pop culture and underground journalism.
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Keipsule Victorian Gothic skull crow silk dress! Japan’s Hello Kitty Shinkansen: kawaii Sanrio bullet train.
Happy New Year! 2019 is feeling auspicious for me so far, with new opportunities and paths.
Looks like I’m already set for Chinese New Year as well, in this my all-red outfit. This Victorian Gothic silk dress is by Keipsule, a new designer with dark and luxurious aesthetics.
Since we’re in a colorful mood, I’ll also take you inside the extremely pink Hello Kitty Shinkansen, which I rode last fall! You read that right: Japan has a high-speed bullet train devoted to the kawaii cat.
I am living in Keipsule’s dress, as it aligns perfectly with my current style direction. I’m forever fond of Gothic fashion — but these days, I’ve been prioritizing timeless, quality pieces by independent designers.
Keipsule’s long-sleeved silk dress can be styled in a variety of ways, for different occasions. I wore it with two types of hats and winter accessories, as you can see in these photos.
Doesn’t my red floppy hat remind you of Carmen Sandiego? It’s from Tenth Street Hats, a family-run company that dates back to 1921. They sell modern millinery with a vintage feel, which fits with the Victorian accents of the dress.
The length of the dress let me show off my UK Tights legwear. These Giulia stockings have both sheer and opaque detailing for an over-the-knee look.
If you like what you see, here’s where you can get this Keipsule “Crow Skulls” dress here. It’s made in Europe, and comes in a variety of sizes. This is a special piece in a limited number run, made with luxurious pure silk that flows as you move.
I grew up watching the Carmen Sandiego show, and I suppose I became a bit like her: shadowy world traveler with a band of deviants, or something like that!
Love the fine ruffle detail at the hem and down the neck. It’s romantic and feminine, without being over-the-top.
The blood red pattern features black and white roses with ivy, cherry blossoms, crows, and skulls. It’s a nod to classic Goth and the occult, without the typical all-black palette.
Wearing silver earrings by Alex Streeter, of course.
My red wide brimmed hat is the Scala Sydney in Cinnamon, by Tenth Street Hats. The style is packable, and has a curving 4 inch brim – perfect for winter. My coat is faux fur.
My Keipsule dress feels lovely on, as it’s made with high end silk that moves with you. It can be dressed up in a variety of ways for special occasions, and has an elegance that won’t go out of style.
Close-up on the jeweled buttons at the sleeve ends, and down the neck. Love how the shirt collar has a subtle ruffled insert.
My silver Ouroboros critter and claw rings are by Alex Streeter Jewellery.
I’m all for investing in unique high-end pieces, and having them be a core part of your wardrobe. I’m excited to see what Keipsule produces next in their collection.
A few more shots of my Scala Sydney round crown felt hat. Tenth Street Hats carries a number of beautiful designs including fedoras, fisherman caps, big brimmed straw hats, and more for all seasons.
Here’s a wardrobe remix with my 1990s-style red beret by Mary Wyatt London. The dark purple faux fur scarf is another old favorite, from Holt Renfrew.
Find out more about Keipsule here, and get this very same dress before the limited run sells out.
And now… all aboard the Hello Kitty bullet train! While I was in Hiroshima, I rode the high speed rails to Okayama (on the way to Naoshima). It happened that the Hello Kitty-themed shinkansen was barreling down these very tracks… which gave me the opportunity to take photos for you!
It’s no secret that Hello Kitty is massive in Japan and worldwide. She has themed stores and cafes all over, and even an airplane and lounge.
Right now, there is a regularly scheduled shinkansen dedicated to Hello Kitty. The cat and her friends appear all over the train, and the bullet nose and doors of the train are bright pink.
Most of the train cars look like they normally do. However, the two last cars of the Hello Kitty train are a pink explosion of Sanrio characters. You can’t reserve a seat inside this compartment, but there’s a small sitting areas with themed decor all over.
The last car contains a Hello Kitty shop. Since the train passes through various cities and prefectures, the store carries specialties from these regions (like the famed baked bread of Hyogo, or my beloved yuzu liquor).
You can also get Hello Kitty limited edition goods, themed after the bullet train. Many show Kitty as a train conductor, ordering you to line up and watch your step!
How can you ride this fabulous train? Here’s the Hello Kitty shinkansen timetable – as you can see, it runs often and stops in major areas including Shin-Osaka, Shimane, Tottori, Okayama, and Hiroshima
Psst: the Japan Rail Pass covers unlimited rides on this train. Once you have a J Rail Pass, go to a station and reserve seats in advance, lest they sell out.
If you get bored during the trip, there’s a Special Theater that screens Sanrio cartoons and Japanese travel videos to keep you entertained.
“Ufufu” pretty much sums up my reaction to riding this kitschy, kawaii Japanese train!
The train is a new 500 series shinkansen. The nose is inspired by the beak of a bird, and cuts through the air to achieve top speeds.
Even the baggage area has a cute makeover… Be sure to take a photo with the giant Hello Kitty statue in the last train cars!
I’m quite sure this is the cutest and most ridiculous smoking room sign you’ll ever see. Not sure how Hello Kitty and her friends can puff on cigarettes when they have no mouth…
I always recommend exploring Japan by train, as the shinkansen is a futuristic and comfortable ride that everyone should experience. A week-long unlimited Japan Rail Pass is great value, as you can hop on and off and see a number of cities.
Would you ride the JR West Hello Kitty bullet train? Or fly on the Sanrio plane?
A last look at my Keipsule silk dress – what do you think of this style?
New travel destinations to be announced soon, as well as site updates — thanks for your patience in the past while. Here’s to a wonderful year!
LA CARMINA
