Shinjuku Visual Kei Jrock music stores, Kabukicho Goth bars! Psy, Deathmatch in Hell, Ni-choome Eagle Blue drag nights.
We’re back to blogging, babes! So much to share from my month and a half in Japan — from celebrating Halloween with friends, to covering Goth / alt subcultures in Tokyo, Osaka, Kobe, Kyoto and more.
Let’s start with a deep dive into Shinjuku’s best Visual Kei / J-rock shops, Goth bars, and drag nightclubs.
The trip was made possible by Japan Tourism Board, who flew me there and gave me a Japan Rail Pass. Felt so good to be back at Shibuya scramble and my other haunts.
If you’ve been following my Instagram @LaCarmina, you’ll know that Yukiro and I have been serving Halloween looks all over Tokyo for spooky season. (Here’s a throwback to the time we wore saris from our hijra friends — the third gender — to the Taj Mahal in Agra, India.)
For spooky season, we’re living our best lives in Japan. Read on for our tour of Shinjuku’s Visual Kei / J-Rock record stores, as well as a Goth alternative and LGBTQ nightlife guide!
Halloween is of course my favorite holiday, so Japanese nail salon Glam Nail Studio glammed me up with ghosts, mummies, bats, pumpkins, and eyeballs. Based in Richmond, BC (near Vancouver), this award-winning salon has been doing my nails for years. Kana hand-painted the spooky kawaii creatures of the night, and added sparkles.
My friends and I love to hang out in Shinjuku — it’s a center of alt and pop culture, and there are plenty of shops, restaurants, game centers, rock bars, and other quirky attractions to keep us entertained.
I always recommend that people stay in east Shinjuku (San-Choome) or Kabukicho, as this location is near the subway and within walking distance of all the fun. The Godzilla-themed Hotel Gracery is a great choice for accommodations (here’s my review and look inside the theme hotel).
Ah, that iconic Shinjuku skyline… Perhaps you recognize the egg-shaped skyscraper from scenes in TV series Aggretsuko (the character works in this district). That’s the Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower, an educational facility.
Yukiro and I spent an afternoon shopping in Shinjuku. We hit up all the subcultures shops like Closet Child, which I’ve written about many times before. This time, he also took me to Prega, a rave / clubwear shop in Shinjuku Subnade (the underground shopping hall).
These sneakers are made for walking on the moon! The selection of intergalactic fashion at Prega is out of this world.
They have everything you need for a catwalk in outerspace.
Governments are now admitting UFOs are real… We’d love for the aliens to beam us away!
If the aliens look anything like this Kasa-Obake mural in Shinjuku, I’ll be happy. (Kasa-Obake is a traditional Japanese ghost/spirit, or yokai — an umbrella that comes to life and hops around, with one eye and a lolling tongue).
We went around to Shinjuku’s J-rock / heavy metal / Visual Kei music stores. Japan is futuristic in some ways, but old-school in others. For example, floppy disks and fax machines are still in use here..
… and VHS tapes still have a market! We couldn’t believe the number of shelves containing old adult videotapes. Some were selling for $100 and up.
If you’re looking for VKei albums and merch, head to Pure Sound Nishishinjuku and Jishuban Club. These (and other small Jrock/metal record stores) are located near each other in West Shinjuku.
CDs are still popular in Japan. Kamijo has a strong selection (you can find Versailles, Malice Mizer, and other VK favs).
These record stores also sell The Cure magazine, and other band goods including signed posters and rarities.
Nostalgia for the 2000s when Visual Kei hair and makeup were everything!
I don’t keep up with VK bands these days, but it was fun to pop into Pure Sound and Jishuban to browse the latest records.
Yukiro and some of my friends still go to Visual Kei / Jrock lives, like the recent Schwarz Stein show. You can get tickets and info about upcoming shows at these music stores too.
When night falls, Shinjuku turns into a neon synthwave jungle.
Here’s the vibe of Kabukicho — flashing lights, sounds, and skyscrapers everywhere. Advertising trucks like this one zip by, blasting frenetic Jpop music.
My friends and I will never say no to a nightcrawl in Shinjuku. We hopped around to a few alternative / Goth / metal bars — starting at our longtime favorite, Bar Psy.
Shinjuku has bars for every theme or niche imaginable. Bar Psy attracts a Gothic and underground clientele — many industrial and metal bands come here for drinks after a show.
Cevin Key of Skinny Puppy is a regular here — his band’s poster is up on the wall.
I tried the Hell Machine blood red cocktail and… let’s say it lived up to its hellish name!
Hail Japan, at Bar Psy!
Onward to some other Shinjuku bars that fit our dark aesthetic…
We went across the street to basement rock bar Mother. The skulls and blood-dripping fonts indicate this is the place for us.
Order a drink, and you’re able to make a song request at Mother! Pick a band (like Skinny Puppy, which was misspelled), and the bartender will hand you CDs to choose tracks from.
Even in a hard rock environment, Hello Kitty and her kawaii friends reign (this is Japan after all).
We requested Klaus Nomi – yass!
For a taste of Tokyo’s LGBTQ nightlife… strut over to Shinjuku’s Ni-choome district.
Nichoome has LGBTQ bars and nightclubs for everyone. We’re fond of the inclusive Eagle Blue, a friendly bear den.
Yukiro (as drag queen Nattmara) runs events here, like RuPaul’s Drag Race screenings and performances by local queens.
We always have a bear-y good time at Shinjuku’s Eagle Blue club! There’s a more old-school Eagle bar around the corner too.
Yukiro’s Goth drag house, Haus von Schwarz, often takes over the stage at Eagle Blue — here’s Angel Heart in pentagram finery. (Check their Insta page for upcoming shows — like the upcoming Fresh Meat.)
Finally, Shinjuku is home to Golden Gai, or several alleys packed with tiny, gritty bars (some only can seat about five people). We were drawn to the new Death Match in Hell, which has a B-horror theme.
Inside, you’ll encounter kitschy horror posters and demon-skeleton-bat creatures!
Fittingly, all cocktails are 666 yen (hail). I went for the ginger one.
We crammed into Deathmatch in Hell, which has tributes to dark pop culture like Twin Peaks, Chucky, and Nightmare on Elm Street.
In the background, the bartender played offbeat cult films (he personally loves Wayne’s World).
And of course, Shinjuku’s Kabukicho is the red light district — the place to find host / hostess bars and adult entertainment.
Speaking of aliens… these purikura filters are over the top.
If you partake in any adult / hostess clubs, exercise diligence since you might encounter unexpectedly high prices and other sketchiness.
But don’t worry — Japan is super safe, and you can walk around the red light district at all hours without issue.
Look for the red Ichiban-gai, the main entrance to Kabukichō off of Yasakuni-doori.
Shinjuku at night is my happy place. (Don Quixote, the general store that sells everything from costumes to makeup to Tenga, is on the right).
Kabukicho night photography by Joey Wong. We’re so happy to be back in Japan for Halloween… I’ll be bringing you loads of new content this fall from Tokyo and beyond, so stay tuned to Instagram @LaCarmina and my other social networks @lacarmina.
You can look forward to fashionable new adventures with Yukiro… Here’s a redux of the time we went to Myanmar (“it will always be Burma to me”) and explored the golden Shwedagon Pagoda filled with Buddhist monuments.
Throwback to Wes Anderson vibes at Palais Faraj in Fez, Morocco. Where in the world should La Carmina go next?
I’d love to check out the hardcore hell parks in Thailand and Singapore… I wrote about Asia’s bizarre Buddhist hell parks for National Geographic! Check it out here on Nat Geo — “Found across Asia, these popular theme parks began as temple gardens that warned visitors of Buddhism’s many levels of hell and the gruesome fates that awaited them there.”
And here’s a fun interview I did with Vancouver’s alt/indie paper, The Georgia Straight. I wax on about visual kei by Malice Mizer, disco, Army of Lovers, yuzu and what’s in my fridge!
If you’re enjoying my Japan content, please add me @LaCarmina on Instagram for a deluge of photos and reels there from my trip, including a yokai parade that went viral…
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Best summer activities in Vancouver BC! CICA Vancouver Sorayama, Capilano Bridge, Miku sushi, Fairmont Pacific Rim.
Domo arigato, Mrs Roboto! I had a grand time this summer in Vancouver, as I do my best to avoid travel in the high season (too expensive and Collapse-prone these days).
Instead, I stayed home in British Columbia and enjoyed art exhibitions (including Hajime Sorayama’s sci fi futurism), sushi on the waterfront, day trips to islands, and outdoor activities.
Read on for my offbeat, artsy guide to the top summer activities in Vancouver, BC — and check out the accompanying videos/reels on my Instagram @LaCarmina.
First, an announcement on the writing front…. My latest publication, “The Little Book of Satanism,” was translated into Spanish! It’s available now from Spain-based publisher Melusina, who did the translation and new cover design above.
To get a copy of my translated book, Google “El Pequeño Libro del Satanismo” (and more info below en español). The Little Book of Satanism is also available in English through Amazon, Kindle, Barnes and Noble and Simon & Schuster. Canadians can find it at Chapters/Indigo or Amazon Canada — or simply search for the title to find it near you.
Here’s the Spanish description of my book “El Pequeño Libro del Satanismo”:
“Con demasiada frecuencia, el satanismo se malinterpreta como una religión que hace sacrificios de sangre a un malvado Príncipe de las Tinieblas con cuernos y cola. En realidad, los satanistas modernos no son violentos ni teístas, y consideran que el Diablo es una metáfora significativa para la búsqueda del conocimiento, la razón y la justicia.
Nos asomamos así a la marca de la bestia en los movimientos culturales e históricos a lo largo de los siglos, que han informado las creencias y prácticas sinceras de los satanistas en la actualidad. Escrita por la galardonada periodista de cultura alternativa y bloguera La Carmina, esta completa guía incluye información sobre los orígenes bíblicos de Satanás y sus diversos nombres, apariencias y símbolos; su trato en la tradición esotérica del siglo XIX, así como su papel como chivo expiatorio, desde los juicios de brujas medievales hasta el «pánico satánico» desatado en la década de 1980. El libro concluye con una revisión concisa de la filosofía y las prácticas modernas, centrándose en la Iglesia de Satán, La Biblia satánica escrita por Anton LaVey y el activismo del Templo Satánico.”
EL PEQUEÑO LIBRO DEL SATANISMO de La Carmina, una obra que ahonda en sus valores afirmativos como inspiración en la vida. 14 x 21 cm. Páginas: 112. ISBN-13:978-84-18403-80-4. Precio: 14,90€.
To grab a copy of my Spanish-translated book, Google “El Pequeño Libro del Satanismo.”
The English version (“The Little Book of Satanism”) is also available worldwide from all major retailers. See links below, or Google the book title to find it near you.
I asked ChatGPT to describe my book, and the AI spat out: “The Little Book of Satanism” provides a brief overview of the philosophy and practices of Satanism. Written by La Carmina, it covers topics such as the history of Satanism, the Satanic Bible, and the rituals and practices of Satanism. “The Little Book of Satanism” is a concise introduction to the basic ideas of Satanism and the worldview of its adherents.”
Order my Satanic book worldwide via Amazon, Kindle, Barnes and Noble or Simon & Schuster. Those in Canada can find it at Chapters/Indigo or Amazon Canada. Thank you for reading — gracias!
Speaking of robotos — I was chuffed to visit the CICA Vancouver in Gastown for the first time. The Vancouver Centre of International Contemporary Art is a space for boundary-pushing works like the sci-fi visions of Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama.
Sorayama’s superrealist Mrs Robotos and visions of artificial intelligence / femininity / human emotions are out of this universe. CICA’s “Space Travelers” show features this immersive installation — doesn’t it remind you of an alien movie?
Since the 1970s, Hajime Sorayama has been mesmerizing viewers with his robotic-space-fantasy visions, which have a surprising warmth. I got to see his earliest commercial works from the 1970s, and large-scale paintings with pop culture themes like his take on Marvel’s Iron Man. (Wearing a leopard print active jacket by Mulu.)
Sorayama is known for his sexy robot ladies, which inspired films like Robocop and Ex Machina.
So shiny and chrome… To see how the light reflects off the metal surfaces and mirrors, watch my video of the CICA Sorayama show. (I always set my reels to the best space disco songs!)
Sorayama has become more well-known in recent years due to his collaborations with Dior (above), Uniqlo, and more.
Hajime Sorayama created mecha-dino sculptures for the film Jurassic World, which continue the theme of sentience vs AI. A remarkable show at CICA — and I can’t wait to see more of his works when I’m in Tokyo, where the artist is based!
Here’s a first look at my new blue-black hair by Katya at Kore Salon in Vancouver. Happy to change up my look from the purple, which I’ve now had for years!
I took my new lilac cloud bag from Verafied to Buntzen Lake in Anmore, BC. My jacket is Mulu — love the cropped fit and breathable fabric, and glad to rep a woman-run, size inclusive label (up to 7XL).
Buntzen Lake and this pier were the shooting locations of horror films Lake Placid, Freddy v Jason, and Jennifer’s Body. Quite a few cult movies were shot in BC, which is known as Hollywood North.
Here’s the purple-blue hair I had before switching it up. Catching the breeze at the rooftop pool of the Fairmont Pacific Rim. I was writing a review of this stylish luxury hotel, which gave me an opportunity to hang at their waterfront property.
(Wearing a black MISBHV shrug and UK Swimwear top.)
You couldn’t ask for a better summer day at the Fairmont Pacific Rim’s outdoor pool fringed by palm trees, overlooking the North Shore mountains and harbour.
My friends and I lounged in this private cabana, and devoured salads, falafel, poke, and Prosecco.
See my Insta reel / video of our Fairmont Pacific poolside hang here.
And then, dinner downstairs at Botanist Restaurant, one of the most exquisite fine dining spots in the city. The Chef’s Selection at Botanist was to die for: gorgeous, gorgeous cocktails and full-flavored Pacific Northwest creations like a quail’s egg on a floral black truffle nest, and perfectly charred kanpachi on creamed corn.
I also served Sporty Spice for a day at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. I hadn’t been to this iconic North Vancouver landmark since the 90s, and discovered that there’s so much to see and do now — like a daredevil cliffwalk and treetops adventure, and encounters with birds of prey!
I’m into the Y2K crochet bolero vibe these days. It’s hand-knit by Maryuan77, who sells them here on Depop.
The Capilano Suspension bridge hangs 140 metres above the rocky river, and sways as people move across. The bridge was originally built in 1889, and became a leading tourist attraction in the 1980s. (Rest assured that there’s nothing sus about the bridge’s safety!)
Capilano Park now has many other outdoor activities for all ages, like the Treetops Adventures. I had fun moving across seven footbridges hanging between tall fir trees, and looking down at the forest floor.
Another highlight: Capilano’s totem or story poles, which were carved by local indigenous artists. They depict spirits and animals that have special meaning in their culture, like the Raven and Bear. (If you’re interested in BC First Nations art, I recommend UBC’s Museum of Anthropology as well.)
Be sure to wear sneakers or good walking shoes. I’m a fan of active / fitness dresses these days, which come with shorts and a built-in bra.
Would you step onto Capilano’s suspended bridge?
Check out my video from Capilano Bridge Park here (it’s set to the Bee Gees!)
The forest is home to birds of prey, like this adorable kestrel.
The Cliffwalk was beautifully designed — it’s a narrow cantilevered walkway that curves around the Capilano River Canyon.
Capilano Suspension Bridge Park is lovely to visit year-round. It will soon transform into Canyon Frights for Halloween, and the attractions are then lit up with lights for the winter holidays.
Who here is part of Leo Nation? For my birthday on August 17, I received the best present imaginable from my favorite Vancouver restaurant, Miku. They invited photographer Joey Wong and me to try a seven course kaiseki of dreams!
For my bday dinner, I wore this eyeballs puff dress by Sourpuss Clothing.
Miku is part of Aburi Restaurants, which has become a worldwide name for their creative Japanese cuisine (they invented the pressed salmon and jalapeno oshi sushi, which is often copied but never surpasses the original).
Predictably, I ordered all the cocktails with yuzu (it’s my birthday after all). The Paper Crane (whiskey, amaro, aperol, yuzu) came with an origami bird.
The chefs spoiled us with a multi-course menu featuring the freshest catch of the day and Miku’s signature aburi nigiri. Everything was beautifully plated on handmade Arita plateware from Kyushu, Japan.
I loved visiting Tohoku last year with the Japan Tourism Board. The Iwate wagyu croquette with yuzu creme fraiche and black truffle snow brought back tasty memories.
Here’s a video of my Miku kaiseki meal. The chef’s selection of sashimi came with dramatic puffs of dry ice, and each slice melts in your mouth (scallop, tuna, hamachi).
Miku’s waterfront setting and attentive service are also unbeatable (no wonder the Japanese restaurant is Michelin recommended). You can sit indoors or outside on the patio, and take in the lights of Canada Place convention centre and ferry terminal.
I’m a little allergic to shellfish, so the chefs changed up the menu and invented this wagyu x sukiyaki sauce x mushrooms dish just for me!
The nigiri platter was a show-stopper. Vancouver is known for having some of the world’s best sushi, and Miku’s high quality fish / seafood paired with creative sauces and ingredients are top of the line.
And the sweetest ending: peach earl grey mouse (even Joey got a belated birthday cake). Thank you Miku for a kaiseki dinner I’ll always remember. (Check them out in Vancouver and Toronto, and sister restaurant Minami in Yaletown too.)
I leave you with some photos from a day trip to Bowen Island, British Columbia. It’s a much-loved summer getaway spot for those in Vancouver — Bowen is only a 20 minute ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay, and you get to take in these spectacular views of the water and tall mountains.
When you arrive, stop at the pier for Earnest ice cream and smoked salmon tacos. Then, head over to Tunstall Bay beach — I’m wearing AmyLynn Clothing on the shore.
The waters are cool and oh so clear. (Photos by Yusheng.)
Thousands of you loved my video of the Bowen Island day trip — come give it a view, and see more Instagram @LaCarmina reels here.
I’m not a camping / hiking type, but it’s lovely to get outdoors in the Pacific Northwest during the hottest months. Wearing fashion from Tokyo at Killarney Lake on Bowen Island.
Did you have a fun summer as well? Now, let’s get ready for spooky season… including Halloween in Japan! Follow along @LaCarmina on social media to see my costume and adventures in Tokyo and beyond.
And thank you for reading my book! If you’d like the Spanish translation, Google “El Pequeño Libro del Satanismo” to find it. “The Little Book of Satanism” is also found on Amazon, Kindle, Barnes and Noble and Simon & Schuster. Those in Canada can find it at Chapters/Indigo or Amazon.ca.
LA CARMINA
