Category Archive for South America
Machu Picchu & hip Cuzco travel guide! Action Treks Peru luxury day tour, cute alpacas, Incan ruins Sacsayhuamán.
Gotta catch ’em all… I didn’t nab Pikachu, but finally made it to my 7th World Wonder: Machu Picchu!
Read on for details of my journey — including serving Y2K looks at the circuit board citadel of the Inca.
I went to Peru for the first time with my friend Albert Ting of The Click Ting and @pootie_ting Instagram, who took these vibrant photos. We were surprised by how much we loved Cuzco, which is the closest major city to Machu Picchu. Such a chill place to hang with alpacas and llamas…
… and the food and architecture in Cuzco are immaculate.
Wearing Y2K cargo camo pants and a 2000s style cardigan by Kate Hewko. Sneakers are Vessi, and the grey cropped sweater is authentic from the Y2K era (borrowed from a friend).
In this post, I’ll take you to Machu Picchu and the best attractions / photography spots in Cuzco, Peru — like these ancient Incan ruins, where you can take selfies with alpacas! (Check out my reel of my adventures with these cute camelids.)
First, some logistics info. Most people travel to Cuzco before going to Machu Picchu, as it’s the closest major city (and a lovely, authentic place to stay unlike Aguas Calientes, the tourist town at the foot of the ruins). We flew on Avianca from Mexico City to Bogota to Cuzco, and spent two days acclimatising to the high altitude (Cuzco is further up than M Picchu, at 3,399 meters).
The long-standing local remedy for altitude sickness is chewing or brewing fresh coca leaves. I didn’t feel any ill effects, but some people feel headaches, nausea, and shortness of breath from being at such a high elevation.
There are many ways to access Machu Picchu — some hike it up, and spend several days camping on the trail. But if you’re an “indoor type” like me, I highly recommend booking a day trip from Cuzco with Action Peru Treks. This sustainable, Indigenous-founded and run local company specializes in guided tours to the historic Incan sanctuary — they take care of all the logistics, so all you have to do is take in the epic views of the Andes!
Action Peru Treks arranges an early morning private car pickup from your hotel or AirBnb, and takes care of all tickets and guiding. We landed in Ollantaytambo and boarded the Vistadome train to the archeological site. It was a ride to remember: you get to see the sunrise and mountains through the glass ceiling, and the train’s rocking motion puts you straight to sleep! Then, on the ride back, guests experience a Peruvian culture and fashion show.
Action Peru Treks made our journey to the mysterious 15th century Incan ruins a joy. As someone who is severely allergic to bug bites, doing a luxurious day trip with them was the way to go.
Please watch my Machu Picchu video here to see our experience with this wonderful Indigenous-owned tour company.
Machu Picchu has long fascinated me, and it was a dream to be here at last. The 15th-century Inca citadel sits at 2,430 meters, hidden in the high slopes of the Andes.
Photos by Albert Ting of The Click Ting and @pootie_ting Instagram — so happy he accompanied me on this Peru trip!
Our guide taught us about the Inca civilization, which had no written language and remains full of mystery. Archaeologists theorize that Machu Picchu was constructed as a retreat for the Inca emperor Pachacuti, and that it was abandoned in the 16th century when the Spanish arrived.
These maze-like stone walls were put together without any mortar. Somehow, the Inca were able to move and cut the stones so precisely that you can’t fit a credit card between the wedges.
Clothing note: the weather is variable, so bring a jacket and wear layers (it is cold early on, and then can heat up). There are also mosquitoes and other biting insects, so bring hardcore DEET spray and don’t expose any of your skin!
The ancients probably referred to this site as Huayna Picchu, and used it as a mountain retreat. In 1911, American explorer Hiram Bingham visited the ruins and brought Machu Picchu into the spotlight. Today, it’s such a popular site that you must reserve tickets (with your preferred ‘circuit’) well in advance. Travelers must stick to only their designated area, and for a limited time slot, in order to keep these ruins well preserved.
Some people visit the UNESCO heritage site over the course of two or more days, especially at sunrise. I was happy to be here just from morning to afternoon, and I’m glad we didn’t stay in Aguas Calientes (the tourist town nearby — instead, make Cusco your home base).
If you’re looking to ascend to Machu Picchu, team up with Action Peru Treks like we did for a seamless, stress-free day trip. Please watch my Machu Picchu reel on Insta @lacarmina for our experience at the Inca citadel.
As you’ll see from these photos — there’s a reason we fell in love with Cuzco, Peru. Everyone we met was laid-back and friendly, and we always felt safe walking around the small, hilly city.
Here is our happy place, Mercado San Blas. Located near our AirBnb, this market was full of healthy, inexpensive Peruvian food and crafts.
Every day, we got freshly squeezed juices from this lovely lady — the green Detox one was my fav. Loved trying South American fruits and foods like the ceviche of the day… and each plate was only a few US dollars!
Everywhere you go, you’ll see rainbow flags and decor. Although it looks like the LGBTQ+ pride symbol, this is the official flag of Cuzco, introduced in 1973.
San Blas market had a mix of locals and travelers, as well as friendly dogs. On the left: the fish soup and fish with rice cost only $2! (Get Peruvian sol in advance, as these spots only take cash.)
As you can see, Cuzco has a bright energy, with fresh cool air and mountains in the background. Wear good shoes and take your time on the hills, as the high elevation can make you short of breath.
Such inspiring visuals everywhere, from the landscapes to the traditional Peruvian hats and garments.
How cute are the soft baby alpacas! For a fee, you can take photos and pet them (most are situated in the main downtown streets of Cuzco). Watch my alpacas video to see these cuties in action.
And don’t even get me started on the restaurants… Everything we ate in Cuzco was next-level. I’m still thinking about the creative fine dining at Cicciolina Restaurant, which mixes Peruvian and Italian influences with an emphasis on shared tapas.
Japanese immigrants to Peru influenced the cuisine here, particularly raw and marinated fish dishes. At Cicciolina, try ceviche and tiraditos (sashimi-style with sauce), and the unusual but beautifully prepared starters made from guinea pig and alpaca (two local specialties).
Take at least two days in Cuzco to get situated and stroll around. Everything is easily accessible by foot, and the food and Airbnbs are inexpensive, making this the perfect home base.
Photos by Albert Ting of The Click Ting and @pootie_ting Instagram.
I’d come back just to try more Peruvian restaurants… like the fresh fare at Local Restaurante. (Tip: go to the upstairs balcony for views over the rooftops).
Coffee-lovers must stop by Three Monkeys Cafe. I ordered a latte and requested a llama on it — so the barista drew one out of the foam! I also took home regional beans from Three Monkeys.
Pisco sours (cocktail made from pisco, lime juice, egg white and Angostura bitters) are also a local must-try. I adored the award-winning craft pisco sours at luxury hotel Palacio del Inka. Look at the walls of their basement bar, and you’ll see ruins from the days of the Inca.
I didn’t visit Lima this time, but I hear the food scene there is also to die for. (Cuzco is a more chill destination, which I was going for).
If you’re fascinated by ancient civilizations like I am, be sure to visit the other Incan ruins within walking distance of Cusco. The most impressive of these sites is Sacsayhuamán or Saqsaywaman, an Inca citadel north of the city (you can walk there, just be prepared for many stairs).
You can purchase a ticket at the site, which lets you into several Cusco culture attractions on the same day. Can’t beat this welcome brigade of free-roaming alpacas!
This pack of alpacas had the run of Sacsayhuamán. Watch my Cusco video to see them rolling around in the dust! (It keeps their fur clean.)
Y2K Matrix vibes in front of the horizontal stone slabs of Sacsayhuamán. In the 15th century, these gigantic boulders were ingeniously cut and fit together without mortar.
The people of the Peruvian Andes have historically bred and raised alpacas, llamas, and vicunas.
Their soft, warm fur makes the perfect cold weather garments. I bought some alpaca sweaters — I’m trying to mostly wear natural and microplastics free materials — from local clothing boutiques.
Sacsayhuaman is a UNESCO World Heritage site and lesser known to the general public — but it’s as much worth the visit as Machu Picchu. (Plus, it’s closer and you can just show up to explore freely).
I dreamed of seeing Egypt’s Pyramids, Easter Island’s moai, and Peru’s Incan ruins… and now I have!
This Alpaca was game for posing for photos with me. Bring sunglasses, as the sun can be harsh here.
There’s still a great deal of mystery about these megalithic walls and the Inca who made them.
Wearing Y2k silver wraparound sunglasses for a Matrix moment.
Ah, the warmth and colors of Cuzco… I was pleasantly surprised by how much I loved it here. (Don’t miss my reel about the alpacas I met.)
So keen to come back to Peru to experience more of the food and culture.
And that’s how I made it to my final World Wonder! Watch the Machu Picchu video for footage of our explorations.
I’ve been to all of the seven modern World Wonders now: Great Wall of China, Mexico’s Chichén Itzá, Jordan’s Petra, Rio’s Christ the Redeemer, Rome’s Colosseum, India’s Taj Mahal. Some add an honorary eighth, which is the only ancient wonder still standing: Giza’s pyramids.
I’ve been to over 70 countries, but still, I get surprised and amazed by destinations like this one. Are you interested in visiting Peru, and the Incan lost city of Machu Picchu?
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Medellin, Colombia hip travel guide! Colombian street art, Elcielo restaurant & luxe hotel, Chef Juan Manuel Barrientos.
That feeling when you finally make it to Medellin, Colombia!
For years, I’d heard fabulous tales of Medellin’s vibrant street art and restaurants. In November, I was honored to be invited to spend time in the City of Eternal Spring, and experience the best of its food and culture.
I wrote a foodie’s guide to Medellin, Colombia in my debut for TravelAgeWest Magazine — and here’s an extended diary of everything that inspired me during my stay!
As I wrote in my Travel Age West magazine piece: “Ask a food blogger or chef about the world’s best cities for dining out, and chances are that Medellin, Colombia, is at the top of their list. Over the past decade, the South American metropolis has developed an energetic food and drink culture in which the U.S. dollar goes a long way.”
Photos by me and DC-based photographer Albert Ting (@pootie_ting on Instagram), who was on the trip with me.
Can you tell I loved staying at the luxurious and chic ElCielo Hotel? I love my baths, and this freestanding bathtub with lights was an Instagrammable dream.
You’ve got to stay at El Cielo hotel in El Poblado (the nightlife/hip/upscale area) if you come to Medellin (I recommended it as one of my fav hotel rooms ever, in this interview with Alibi Zine.)
Elcielo Hospitality is known for its diverse range of restaurants in Colombia and the US — so of course, the hotel’s room service was delectable. I’m still reminiscing about the omelet with indigenous microgreens, and a generous side of Colombian avocado!
Every space made the most of Medellin’s native plant life — one of the elements I loved most about this green South American city in the mountains.
Love the clean and natural aesthetics at Elcielo hotel, such as the spiral staircase from the upper level lobby to the rooftop bar…
This was my happy place during my Medellin stay, surrounded by greenery.
I came up to Elcielo’s gorgeous rooftop pool multiple times to dip my legs in the water, and sip on an iced Colombian coffee with almond milk (and later, a pisco sour).
It was a delight to meet Juan Manuel Barrientos, or Juanma – the young Michelin-starred chef and entrepreneur behind Elcielo Hospitality. (It’s a family run business; his dad is responsible for operations.)
Chef Barrientos has a rock star presence that carries over to his visually arresting dishes at Elcielo, his much-lauded fine dining restaurant in Medellin. (There are locations in Bogota, Miami and DC as well.)
The appetizers included Colombian corn crisps topped with edible flowers, gold foil and a cheese emulsion from the town of Paipa — and small bites like tapioca cubes, served with animal heads!
We sat down to 17 “experiences” with playful visuals, including a beet rose salad, and a demo of fresh corn tortillas made right at the table.
As I wrote: “Chef Barrientos loves to put an imaginative spin on native products, such as by molding yucca bread into what looks like a Tree of Life from the Amazon. Between plates, El Cielo offers eye- opening sensory “moments” such as washing one’s hands in warm chocolate and coffee grounds: guests are encouraged to play with the sweet liquid and lick it from their fingers.”
Feeling tropical amidst the living green wall and plants in Elcielo.
I continued to eat my way around Medellin, which has become a hub for inventive plant-based cuisine. I was knocked off my feet by Kaime Restaurant run by Sara Barrientos and her mother, who have been plant-based for decades.
The women have channeled their years of personal experience into creative dishes like this ridiculously tasty pesto vegetable pasta, as well as vegan burgers and cocktails. Kaime’s Colombian-vegan dishes are such a hit that they are opening a US location soon.
More of my writing: “Colombia is famous for its coffee, which is the country’s third-largest export and has a distinct citrus, chocolate and nut flavor. Trek to Hacienda Santa Isabel farm in Fredonia, about a 1.5-hour drive from Medellin, to see how coffee is produced at high altitudes with the help of donkeys.”
The views from the coffee farm were unforgettable… and the polite resident donkeys followed us to say goodbye!
At Cuon restaurant, chef Juanma puts a spin on Asian cuisine such as sushi rolls and sake cocktails.
The cocktail menu features Asian flavors like lemongrass and passionfruit, with cool presentations that involve dry ice and flames.
Impressed by Chef Barrientos’ range… His Elcielo Hospitality Group has several restaurants within walking distance in El Poblado, the best dining area of Medellin. Here’s La Serenissima, which focuses on Italian favorites. (His sister is behind the chic restaurant/hotel interior designs.)
Can’t get enough of Colombian coffee… it lives up to its global reputation.
Happy to indulge in burrata pizza and prawns with handmade pasta.
After all that eating, I was excited to get to know the artsy side of the city through a walking tour.
I joined a Comuna 13 graffiti tour, in which a local shows you around the formerly dangerous neighborhood (now transformed into a street art living canvas).
Comuna 13 is filled with art galleries and murals in all styles. Here are two of my Gothic favorites.
The rainbow-painted houses on the side of the mountain are a sight to behold.
My Dutch braided hair matches the colors of this Comuna 13 art wall.
I felt safe during my Medellin travels — just be aware of your surroundings, and you’ll have no trouble in places like Comuna 13 and El Poblado / Parque Lleras where travelers tend to go.
Much of the artwork reflects on Comuna 13’s revitalization, and themes of local history and politics.
Nothing like the eclectic skyline of Medellin, with the jungle and Andes Mountains in the distance.
And I had to see the “thicc” sculptures of 20th century Colombian artist Fernando Botero!
At Plaza Botero in the old quarter, you can walk around dozens of giant bronze statues made in his signature “plump” style. (The area is a tad seedy, so watch out for your belongings.)
Botero aimed to emphasize volume and form in his works, which are a delight to behold.
The cute, rotund animals were my favorites.
Then, pop into the Museum of Antioquia to see more of Botero’s works including devilish paintings.
There are elements of surrealism and humor in Botero’s art, especially the religious paintings. I’m a fan after seeing his works at Museo de Antioquia in Medellin!
The city has a vivacious nightlife and late-night dining culture. Here’s the spooky decor at Agua Fresca Taqueria y Mezcaleria, a Tulum-style Mexican restaurant.
Be sure to order the dishes with “avo” — like the guacamole topped with local microgreens, with tortilla chips and a plethora of house-made sauces. The local Lorena avocado is round and creamy, and I could eat it by the bucket.
The modern Mexican restaurant also serves fresh-milled corn tostadas and tacos piled with generous portions of creamy avocado. Goes down great with a paloma or margarita.
Cheers to the day of the dead skulls found throughout. Photos by me and Albert Ting (@pootie_ting).
We packed a lot into our Medellin journey — including a drive to El Peñón de Guatapé. The giant granite rock looks like an alien monolith, and you can go up 649 stairs to get to the top.
Instead of doing the “Stairmaster” to El Penon, we took in the surrounding views and snacked on Colombian street food.
You can’t help but be inspired by Medellin, with rooftop views like these.
And there’s street art everywhere you turn. Here are some Satanic and Gothic favorites… how sweet is the baby devil?
Be sure to do some shopping as well — Oviedo mall is my favorite, and is known for its emerald jewelry stores.
At the “Kinky” store, I couldn’t resist getting this kawaii Baphomet amigurumi (crocheted plush).
Satan is indeed everywhere… The houses in Guatape are decorated with bright friezes, including this occult alien pentagram pyramid wall.
Speaking of Goth matters… I did an interview with Cherry Chu magazine about the Japan Gothic subculture, favorite clubs, clothing lines and more.
Hail Medellin! Such an energetic and warm city.
I will always think back to my lazy early afternoons at the Elcielo Hotel rooftop pool…
Relaxing poolside with fresh avocado and these views.
Must come back here… ahh!
What do you think of my offbeat, artsy and foodie travels in Medellin? Leave a comment if you have any questions about coming to Colombia.
LA CARMINA
