Some career news: I’m now a food writer for Observer!  I recently went to Mexico City to report on the meaningful menus by chef Pepe Salinas at Balcón del Zócalo. His artistic tastings are themed around social issues like climate collapse and women’s rights… I think you can see why I was drawn to his story!

Thanks for supporting my writing — read my Mexico City chef/restaurant feature here on Observer.

These vibrant photos are by Albert Ting of The Click Ting and @pootie_ting Instagram — so happy he accompanied me on the trip!

And watch the reel about my Balcón del Zócalo dining experience here on @LaCarmina Insta.

How gorgeous is this greenery-filled open air restaurant, located on the 6th floor of Zócalo Central Hotel?

I’m wearing a 100% mulberry silk cheongsam or qipao (traditional Chinese dress) by Beth and Brian Qipao. I’m transitioning to a nearly microplastics-free wardrobe, so this luxe floral design with a leg slit was perfect for a dinner to remember.

In my debut for Observer, I wrote about how Mexico City chef Pepe Salinas conveys a Mad Max future­­­­ through fine dining. Imagine a five-star, nine-course dinner based on water scarcity… which references a Dune-like future of drinking our own urine to survive!

Every three months, chef Salinas and his R&D team create a new menu based on pressing (and sometimes divisive) topics of the day. This summer, Balcón del Zócalo’s tasting is based on Day Zero, the imminent doomsday when Mexico City’s reservoirs will run out of water.

Each course weaves in a story of The Collapse — which is happening now — through Salinas’ well-rounded flavors and textures. Trained as an artist, his dishes are works of art. This one is inspired by Lake Pátzcuaro, which is drying up due to human activity. The melon aguachile, corn toast and freeze-dried strawberries (as well as the custom plate) allude to the drought affecting the lake.

I love sardines, so this was a personal favorite… Salinas invites you to scrounge together a post-apocalyptic meal out of sardines in a glass can and dehydrated meat “crackers!” Talk about a delicious dystopian simulation.

Here, he addresses my current obsession: death by microplastics! Pepe Salinas designs and 3D prints tableware to perfectly fit his themes. The bread plate is made from discarded water bottle parts (photographer Albert Ting and I are still salivating over the incredible sourdough served at Balcon!)

The restaurant’s wine pairings bring out the umami of each dish. The Day Zero tasting isn’t all doom and gloom — it’s playful and showcases creative solutions, such as using hydroponics to grow crisp greens.

The chef is also an artist, and combines his passions by hand-drawing each menu (every guest gets to take home a copy). The tasting also involves going into the wine room for the starter (a meteorite candy with champagne and a tribute to the Aztec rain god), and later the kitchen to say hi to the team and have a palate cleanser.

I also got to visit Pepe Salinas’ experimental lab… Of course, I was drawn to this row of homemade skull liquors, and tried the one with a scorpion in it!

As I wrote in the Observer article: “Universal Flood encourages guests to simulate an eco-disaster by vigorously shaking the broth around a slab of buttery totoaba fish, causing beet gummy bears to bleed out red. Salinas focused on plant and marine ingredients—like a coconut soup with scallops, squid and spirulina that evokes life-giving amniotic fluid—to show that fine dining can be delectable and beautiful when resources are scarce.”

I smiled when the desserts came out with 3D printed axolotls (colorful, smiling endangered Mexican amphibians)!

Come watch the video footage of my dinner at Balcón del Zócalo here — you get to see the interactive elements of the tasting.

The video also gives you a tour of the magnificent restaurant, which is on the 6th floor of Zocalo Central Hoteles in Centro Historico, Mexico City.

Balcón del Zócalo’s name refers to its vast balcony overlooking the ancient square, which was originally an Aztec ceremonial space, and is now the site of the 16th-century National Palace and Metropolitan Cathedral.

Love the plants everywhere, and black and white tile floor. (My heels are Dream Pair Shoes.)

You can eat a marvelous breakfast by the balcony as well — we loved our stay in this classy hotel.

Stay at Hotel Centrales Zocalo for a boutique experience rich with character and history.

This hotel was made for me… the lobby was filled with skully elements! Photos by Albert Ting of The Click Ting / @pootie_ting on Instagram.

I adore Day of the Dead in Mexico, and the sugar skulls / spooky folklore surrounding the occasion. (See my 2019 blog about coming to CDMX around Halloween).

Cheers to Zocalo Central Hoteles for the fabulous hospitality.

The hotel and restaurant are located near Mexico City’s top museums, including the nearby Museo de Arte Popular. These towering calavera figures greeted us. Despite being dead, they’re still enjoying life to the max through song, dance, and fashion. (Sounds like some Goth friends of mine.)

Mexico City’s Museum of Popular Arts has several floors of folk art. My favorite exhibition featured Mexican devils of all sizes and shapes!

Such captivating detail in each of the horned masks.

These are humanized, comical versions of the Devil, who was introduced to the indigenous people of Mexico through Christian missionaries. Some of the works show Lucifer and his infernal court, while others show demons crying over losing their tails.

And of course, there were tons of skeletons hanging out at the museum.

Speaking of spookiness… we loved the vibe of Xaman Bar, which is inspired by ancient shaman culture! Find the hidden entrance and enter into a cavernous space filled with mysterious indigenous masks.

The menu is a Gothic dream — it references voodoo, tarot, and the occult. Of course, I went for the mezcal cocktail on the top right, called “Goodbye to Evils,” which sends the Devil packing.

Xaman Bar incorporates traditional liquors and ingredients, and elements of shamanic ritual — like a fire and smoke performance.

Spend an evening at Xaman Bar for a taste of mixology with alchemy and ritual.

One of my favorite things to do in CDMX — check out contemporary art. We wandered into a Jan Hendrix “Atlas” exhibition at the downtown Palacio de Cultura Citibanamex, and were mesmerized both by the art and setting.

The Dutch artist’s large-scale works are inspired by biology and botany.

You must see Jan Hendrix’s art in person to get the full effect of the shimmering forms and colors, such as this interactive mirrored sculpture.

On my previous trip to Mexico’s capital, I also went to the Museum of Anthropology, Museo Soumaya, Templo Mayor and more — coverage here.

Also close to Central Hotels Zocalo — a David LaChapelle photography gallery. I’m sure you recognize the iconic images of Britney Spears and Marilyn Manson by the American photographer and music video director.

If there are only two things I can do in Mexico, it would be… eat inexpensive / street food (especially tacos), and buy over the counter tretinoin (anti-aging skin product)!

I was in my happy place eating $2 cachete (cheek) tacos at Los Cocuyos Taqueria (a fav of Anthony Bourdain) and Taqueria Arandas. I also adored the quesadillas and huaraches at street stall El Huarache Loco. And I went to Farmacia Similares to get ten tubes of tretinoin 0.05 cream for $2-3 each.

Thanks to everyone who made it possible for me to visit Mexico City and report on food, art, and travel.

I hope you enjoy my debut article published by Observer about the conversation-sparking restaurant Balcón del Zócalo .

For more from Mexico City and this dining adventure, watch my reel here — and add me on @LaCarmina IG for my latest travel and food adventures!

Ready for round two of my Puerto Vallarta travels? Read on for my offbeat, alternative guide to Zona Romantica — the LGBTQ district and best place to stay — including molecular mezcal cocktails, Day of the Dead skeletons, and a xenomorph alien!

I recommend staying in Zona Romantica as it’s within walking distance of the beach and hippest restaurants, as well as LGBTQ clubs and bars. My daily protocols were a dream: get ice coffee, walk the Malecon (boardwalk) and dip my feet in the foam, eat 20 peso tacos, and watch the sunset. (You can see my fav Puerto Vallarta attractions at a glance in my @LaCarmina Instagram Guide.)

I took some photos to showcase my updated hair color — it has blue streaks in it now, along with dark purple and my natural black underneath. My stylist is Katya at Kore Salon in Vancouver.

Living the jungle life in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Wearing a halter bikini top by UK Swimwear — they have lots of chic swim styles, and I like how I can wear this as a crop top as well. My comfy animal print pants are from Medellin, Colombia.

I’m forever living in the 90s — that era is my makeup inspiration these days.

Digging the foreground blur. These images were shot on my Sony a7 IV mirrorless camera.

I also take images on the iPhone, as it brings out landscape and sky details nicely. I made it a habit to catch the sunset over the ocean every day.

Here’s another beachwear look. My red bikini and long resort dress are by UK Swimwear.

I took these photos at the only uncrowded spot on Los Muertos beach, under the palapas. If you’re looking for a quiet, deserted beach experience, go to Playa Conchas Chinas instead (all info and pics in my first PV post).

Speaking of living in the 1990s… I got these reissued Steve Madden Slinky sandals (I had the same ones in the late 90s!) The slight platform and “fwap fwap” noise bring me back. Get a pair below, in various colors:

Zona Romantica is Puerto Vallarta’s rainbow district, as you can see from the pride flags and Tom of Finland murals. The streets are filled with LGBTQ clubs, bars, and shops with friendly vibes.

Always a fabulous time traveling with Trevor. (We met this local who was obsessed with my hair’s realness!)

Long live the Queen in Puerto Vallarta (or the Queen Mother)…

I recommend getting a local Airbnb or booking a boutique hotel in the Romantic Zone, rather than staying in the distant resorts. Mine had a cute patio area. I’m wearing an Abysm Internal kimono that matches my hair and the turquoise door.

Abysm Internal has a wide selection of original, dark and fantastical designs — I was drawn to this Japanese horned hannya with a pentagram on its forehead. I chose it in the sheer fabric, and purple/blue color variation.

Leave it to us to find the most Gothic parts of Puerto Vallarta. We saw Day of the Dead skeleton figurines in a store near the Malecon.

This Mexican skeleton couple was looking out at the ocean from a patio by the boardwalk.

At Plaza Lázaro Cárdenas in Zona Romantica, there are a variety of colorful seats… including this Dia de los Muerto themed one. We had to take a photo here at Golden Hour.

Find my Steeeveee Maddennnn shoeesss below (if you’ve seen Wolf of Wall Street, you’ll know what I mean).

Puerto Vallarta has quite the party scene, and would be a thrilling spot for Day of the Dead. (You can see how I celebrated Dia de los Muertos and Halloween in Mexico City and Merida, in my past Mexico posts here.)

Although there weren’t any Goth clubs or events in Puerto Vallarta when we were there, I loved visiting El Colibri bar, which serves mezcal craft cocktails and has an alt / Gothic atmosphere.

As The Collapse accelerates… Abysm Internal’s Gothic / devilish kimonos are a stylish way to keep cool and covered from the sun.

Mexico’s west coast has a dry heat and no mosquitoes (unlike in Riviera Maya / Tulum). It’s easy and inexpensive to get here from the North American west coast, making it a perfect winter getaway.

Golden Hour at the beach by Zona Romantica. Take off your shoes, and have a “Gaywatch” moment.

My Japanese demon kimono is the perfect Goth summer beach coverup.

Been making it a habit to walk 10k steps a day and spend more time outdoors.

Here is a video of my jewelry at sunset. Wearing a gold and diamond ouroboros ring by Ingrid Valou (stacked with my mom’s ruby/diamonds/gold1970s ring). The topaz and gold paper clip bracelet is from Anzie Jewelry (stacked with my mom’s 70s gold chain bracelet, and a Colombian emerald and blue diamond gold bangle I got in Medellin.)

We were all about the witchy molecular cocktails at Mezcal & Sal, in Zona. The drinks came with magical presentations like bubbles, slides, and drops.

Mezcal y Sal also puts a creative take on Mexican dishes — such as watermelon tiradito (that tastes like marinated tuna), and cactus mousse for dessert.

I’m on a mezcal kick, as it’s a pure alcohol. Visit Agave Liquors in Zona Romantica for a wide selection of artisanal mezcals. and also check out Vinos America (I got the Alipus San Andres there for 999 pesos). Stay out of the tourist stores, and make sure you purchase mezcal that is over 40% alcohol with no additives. I recommend getting a small-batch handcrafted Mexican mezcal for around 1000-1500 pesos.

Ran into a Dorito-faced cult leader on the Malecon. While Puerto Vallarta is a popular tourist destination, it doesn’t feel overly commercial or Americanized, especially if you avoid spring break and peak times.

As you walk the seawall, you’ll come across weird sculptures, performance artists, and other inspiration.

We dared to approach this Alien xenomorph… What a costume! I passed by an Edward Scissorhands as well.

Loved being close to the water and birds in Mexico.

The skies turn dramatic after sunset. (See my first Puerto Vallarta post for more recommendations.)

Leave it to me to find Miffy wherever I go… next to a UFO!

The Tarzan life in Puerto Vallarta suited me well, and I’d jump at the chance to go back (especially in the coldest months)!

For more of my food / beach / attraction tips, see my Instagram Guide to Puerto Vallarta here. And if you’d like anything from my personal wardrobe, take a look at my Depop @LaCarmina (I ship worldwide, and can do bundle discounts).

Finally, a reminder that I’ve been ramping up my social media content… Add @LaCarmina on Instagram and other social networks (YouTube, X as it’s now called) to see the latest updates, and learn where in the world I’ll be next!