Category Archive for Italy & Western Europe
Goth Malta travel & food guide! Hypogeum & Hagar Qim ancient megalithic temples, Valletta Barrakka art & gardens.
Surprise: I was in Malta last year! I made a quick trip to the Mediterranean island nation during my Europe travels in 2024 — and it turned out to be one of my favorite new destinations.
Malta is situated south of Sicily / Italy and north of Africa, and has been inhabited since the Stone Age. As a result, the country has everything that appeals to me as a Goth / culture-focused traveller: mysterious ancient temples, opulent historic architecture, and dramatic waterfronts. (Watch my Malta reel for footage of my travels here. I also did a video about what I ate in Malta.)
Case in point: this view of the Old City of Mdina, a walled city that seems frozen in time from its Medieval heyday. Perhaps you recognize the buildings from HBO’s Game of Thrones: quite a few sites stood on for King’s Landing, such as Mdina Gate.
Read on for my Maltese Goth alternative travel and food guide, which encapsulates why the tourism board slogan is accurate… “Malta is More!”
Malta is a refreshingly affordable destination in southern Europe. From Dublin, London and other UK / Western European cities, you can easily get roundtrip flights to Malta International Airport for $100 or so. I rented a lovely private Airbnb in Sliema for about $40 a day, walked almost everywhere, and had most meals for under $5 (keep reading for street snacks)… talk about bang for your buck.
I loved walking around and seeing the decadent architecture, particularly from the Maltese Baroque era (17-18th century, when the islands were ruled by the Order of St John). Quite a few had Gothic grotesques, or fierce carved figures on building facades.
You’ll run into ruins from Malta’s Roman and Byzantine eras as you stroll around. For one of the best photography viewpoints, head to Tigné Point near Sliema’s The Point shopping mall (above). The stores are worth checking out as well, particularly Kiko Milano makeup and Oysho activewear.
The Mediterranean waterfront made me feel like I had time-traveled back into ancient times… I half expected a Game of Thornes dragon to fly out over the stone fortress walls!
Maltese culture has similarities to that of southern Italy and Morocco / north Africa, but it’s unique in its own right. You’ll notice that the Maltese language has its own distinct script (it’s the only Semitic language written in the Latin alphabet).
So much art and drama everywhere, from the carved animal door knockers to the crashing waves over the rocks. I appreciated that this wasn’t a tourist-packed place, unlike other parts of southern Europe.
Take the ferry or an inexpensive Uber to Valletta, Malta’s capital. I walked for hours through the narrow, stepped streets, which hold cafes, outdoor restaurants and shops. Valletta is filled with magnificent 16th-century buildings, which were made by the Knights Hospitaller.
And leave it to me to find some Goth and naughty elements… I was tickled to see this statue on the left, which shows St Michael grappling with the Devil!
The saint has a chain wrapped around Satan’s neck, and is stepping on him with his muscled legs. I think the naked Devil seems to be enjoying the S&M play… Do we think his face shows pleasure or pain?
I was also drawn to the spooky face on top of the Neoclassical temple known as Monument to Sir Alexander Ball.
It’s located in the Lower Barrakka gardens, a picture-perfect garden with fountains, palm trees, and structures inspired by ancient Rome.
I could imagine the Knights of Malta scheming as they strolled through the Upper and Lower Barrakka gardens (both are free to visit, and located close to each other). Be sure to take in the panoramic view of the Grand Harbour and cannons.
Now, let’s talk about Maltese food — because it was “everything!” I was tickled to try the country’s unique dishes like bigilla, a slightly spicy broad bean dip with olive oil and chili flakes. The lion door knocker seemed to enjoy it as much as I did. (Don’t miss my IG reel about what I ate in Malta.)
Also a must for bev-heads: try a bottle of Kinnie, Malta’s bittersweet orange soda. The soft drink is made with bitter oranges, wormwood, and herbs, and isn’t overly sweet.
For 1-2 Euro, you can eat your fill of pastizzi, Malta’s famous savoury pastry filled with ricotta, curried peas, chicken, and other ingredients. You can find small pastizzi stands in every major area. I didn’t get to visit the island of Gozo this time, but their pizza is also legendary.
Of course, my favorite Maltese pastries were the ones filled with spinach and anchovies or sardines! I also adored the tuna ftira from Buchman’s Snack Bar (a ring-shaped Maltese bread sandwiched with pink tuna and vegetables). For more Maltese food suggestions, see my Malta food reel.
One of my main motivations to visit Malta was to explore the archeological ruins, particularly the megalithic temples that date to the prehistoric era. You’ve got to get tickets well in advance to the breathtaking Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, a 3000 BCE necropolis and sanctuary. (You can only enter with a guided tour, which sells out months in advance. Photos aren’t allowed, so here’s a snap from Wikipedia.)
Malta’s underground Hypogeum contained the remains of about 7000 people, and is a mesmerizing remnant of the architecture and spiritual culture of the ancients. The circular carved stone chamber and Oracle Room gave me goosebumps. (The Hypogeum also reminded me of Fellini’s Satyricon, the 1969 film that is a personal fav.)
I also wandered the megalithic temples at Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra Archaeological Park. These religious sites date back to 3600-3200 BCE, and were built on a dramatic promontory overlooking the windy sea.
The size and arrangement of the stone slabs are impressive to behold. Archaeologists are still untangling the meanings behind Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, which may reference fertility rituals and the solstices / equinoxes.
If you’re intrigued, please take a moment to watch my video about exploring Malta’s ancient ruins.
I’m still thinking about the incredible food I ate in Malta… I tried Maltese wine for the first time (Meridiana’s crisp Isis Chardonnay).
I wanted to order everything on the menu at Nenu the Artisan Baker, which specializes in traditional, homey Maltese cooking. Highlights included snails with fresh-baked bread, rabbit fried in garlic, blistered octopus, glazed pork shank…
… and date fritters with Maltese ice cream. Dining in Malta is affordable compared to other Western European countries, so eat your fill while you’re here. (See my video about everything I ate in Malta.)
Malta is a perfect “lie flat” destination — a warm place to chill while on a budget. The landmarks, such as Vittoriosa Waterfront, also don’t feel touristy.
I could have spent more days wandering around and taking in the quirky art — like a crumbling sphinx statue, and cute bear garbage can. (He looks eager for you to put your junk in his mouth…)
I leave you with the angel dominating Lucifer (who seems to be very much enjoying getting his chained collar yanked!)
Don’t forget to watch my video about what I saw in Malta and the delicious food I had here, on @LaCarmina Instagram.
Did you know Malta has such a rich and diverse culture, particularly in terms of art, archaeology and food?
PS – you can see more of my travels in various European countries (like the Nosferatu vibes above at Whitby Abbey) in my blog’s Destination Guides, and by adding @LaCarmina Instagram.
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Dublin, Ireland Goth travels: Visiting Trinity College Long Room Library without crowds, Irish Gothic art & fashion.
Can’t believe it is already the end of 2024! Let’s round things off with stories from my Dublin, Ireland trip earlier this year.
I’ll show you Irish Gothic architecture, and how I got these unobstructed shots and video inside The Long Room Library of Trinity College…
And we’ll recap a few of my other travels and adventures in 2024, such as this visit to the newly renovated Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, BC’s UBC!
Let’s begin with Dublin, Ireland. I checked into the artsy Arthaus boutique hotel for my first time ever in St Patrick’s land.
As a book lover, I had to see the famed Long Library at Trinity College, which is filled with antique books and busts. Isn’t this a bibliophile’s dream?
To visit the library, you’ll have to make advance reservations for the Book of Kells Experience at Trinity College. You’ll get to see the famed 800 ACE illuminated manuscript and interactive museum exhibits as well.
Select the first entry slot in the morning, and rush to the library before the crowds. That way, you’ll have the 18th century Long Library filled with antique books and busts to yourself. Can you tell this is my happy place??
The Long Room is an 65-metre-long chamber of the Old Library, built between 1712 and 1732. It holds 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books, as well as a row of white busts of writers and philosophers like Shakespeare.
Here’s how I took photos in the Long Room at Trinity College Dublin without any crowds!
1) Reserve the first 8:30 AM entry to the Book of Kells experience
2) Race past the museum exhibits (which everyone else looks at first) to the Long Library up the stairs and in the back
3) You’ll have about 10 min to take unobstructed shots like this, before others arrive!
I also took a video of my Long Library visit — check it out on @lacarmina IG.
Long Library looks a lot like the Jedi archives of the Jedi Temple in Star Wars!
The chamber also holds “Brian Boru’s harp”, a medieval Gaelic musical instrument and a national symbol of Ireland.
I recommend staying in a central area of Dublin so that you can easily walk around and see the parks and sites. I laid flat at Arthaus Hotel near St Stephen’s Green.
The Art Deco decor and boutique amenities were right up my alley.
From there, I could stroll to Trinity College, Dublin Castle and other nearby landmarks. Spotted tons of decadent Irish brass doorknockers along the way.
Trinity College was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I. Today, the campus has some rather Gothic and haunted elements, like this painting of a horned lady.
The eminent institution was straight out of a fantasy novel. I imagined taking magick potion classes at Trinity College Dublin’s School of Botany. (See my video of the School of Botany here.)
Dublin has quite a few quirky and Gothic attractions like The Church Café Bar & Restaurant, set in a converted 17th century church (the stained glass windows and organ remain).
Irish coffee (with whiskey and whipped cream) is a local must-try. My favorite was the elevated version at Vice Coffee.
Nothing like having a fresh latte outside in Europe. I said hi to Oscar Wilde’s statue at Merrion Square in Dublin.
Marsh’s Library is another book lover’s paradise. It is Dublin’s oldest public library – dating back to the 18th century.
I didn’t pay the fee to enter the library and take photos, so you’ll only get this shot of the exterior. (I also came across this Egyptian lamp-bearer while walking around.)
Dublin is one Goth destination… the dark architecture and moody skies are straight out of a The Cure music video.
Also very Gothic: The Dead Zoo, or natural history museum filled with taxidermy and bones. Entry is free, so why not come to see over 10,000 specimens including bats?
For a short day trip from Dublin, take the DART train to Howth, a scenic Irish fishing village on the peninsula.
Take the cliff walk by the water, and see nautical sites like Baily Lighthouse.
Although I’m not into the pub scene, it’s fun to walk around the Temple Bar area at night. Many of the classic pubs, such as The Long Hall, have been around for hundreds of years.
Have you been to Ireland, or dream of going? For more, see my reel (set to Enya) of my Long Room at Trinity College visit.
Let’s finish off with a few 2024 adventures that I haven’t yet shared on the blog. In the summer, my friend Sancho Angulo and I went to Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology at UBC, which has re-opened after an 18-month seismic revamp.
Sancho and I spent hours exploring the UBC Museum of Anthropology, which has over 50,000 global cultural works lit up by Arthur Erickson’s modernist architecture. One of the centerpieces is Bill Reid’s sculpture of Haida creation myth “The Raven and the First Men.”
The Museum Of Anthropology has the world’s most magnificent collection of Indigenous northwest coast art, including towering totem poles and long houses outside. Whenever friends travel to Vancouver, I encourage them to visit my fav local museum – I think the photos speak for themselves!
You may recall that Sancho Angulo and I were both on CTV’s game show, Battle of the Generations. We have more travels and road trips planned ahead… stay tuned for our next escapades.
I also did a summer getaway to Harrison Hot Springs, the resort town near Vancouver. I enjoyed the hotel’s 90s vibe and swimming pool, and got to hang with the sasquatch statues.
Every summer, I make sure to get in some “Beach Goth” time (with lots of sun protection, always). Wearing a Beach Goth t-shirt from Cat and Bat designs, indie purveyors of Gothic cotton shirts.
I also did a work trip to Del Boca Vista, aka Fort Lauderdale and Orlando, Florida. Here are some snaps from my tropical Goth pool day at Lake Nona Wave Hotel.
I was fond of the Lake Nona sculpture garden, which contains a menagerie of large-scale works. This Miffy one spoke to me.
A funny airport story… I had to go through an extra security check because TSA didn’t recognize my 90s Nintendo Game Boy when it went through the scanner! Agents were confused and probably thought it was a b-o-m-b. Security said they hadn’t seen this device in forever. But Super Mario Land is the best game ever… And the reason I wanted to go to Easter Island!
I was in Florida to write about Michelin starred chef Ryan Ratino’s new Florida restaurants, Omo by Jont and Maass, for publications including Observer. Check out my video about dining at Ryan Ratino’s restaurants — yasss, chef. You can read my travel and food writing on my freelance journalism portfolio page.
And now, tis time for me to lie flat for the season… were you sassy or sweet this year? (From Elf’s Pub at Fairmont Chateau Laurier in Ottawa, with Sancho Angulo @sanchoangulo). Wishing you the best for the ho-ho-holidays, and see you in 2025!