Category Archive for Italy & Western Europe
Dublin, Ireland Goth travels: Visiting Trinity College Long Room Library without crowds, Irish Gothic art & fashion.
Can’t believe it is already the end of 2024! Let’s round things off with stories from my Dublin, Ireland trip earlier this year.
I’ll show you Irish Gothic architecture, and how I got these unobstructed shots and video inside The Long Room Library of Trinity College…
And we’ll recap a few of my other travels and adventures in 2024, such as this visit to the newly renovated Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, BC’s UBC!
Let’s begin with Dublin, Ireland. I checked into the artsy Arthaus boutique hotel for my first time ever in St Patrick’s land.
As a book lover, I had to see the famed Long Library at Trinity College, which is filled with antique books and busts. Isn’t this a bibliophile’s dream?
To visit the library, you’ll have to make advance reservations for the Book of Kells Experience at Trinity College. You’ll get to see the famed 800 ACE illuminated manuscript and interactive museum exhibits as well.
Select the first entry slot in the morning, and rush to the library before the crowds. That way, you’ll have the 18th century Long Library filled with antique books and busts to yourself. Can you tell this is my happy place??
The Long Room is an 65-metre-long chamber of the Old Library, built between 1712 and 1732. It holds 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books, as well as a row of white busts of writers and philosophers like Shakespeare.
Here’s how I took photos in the Long Room at Trinity College Dublin without any crowds!
1) Reserve the first 8:30 AM entry to the Book of Kells experience
2) Race past the museum exhibits (which everyone else looks at first) to the Long Library up the stairs and in the back
3) You’ll have about 10 min to take unobstructed shots like this, before others arrive!
I also took a video of my Long Library visit — check it out on @lacarmina IG.
Long Library looks a lot like the Jedi archives of the Jedi Temple in Star Wars!
The chamber also holds “Brian Boru’s harp”, a medieval Gaelic musical instrument and a national symbol of Ireland.
I recommend staying in a central area of Dublin so that you can easily walk around and see the parks and sites. I laid flat at Arthaus Hotel near St Stephen’s Green.
The Art Deco decor and boutique amenities were right up my alley.
From there, I could stroll to Trinity College, Dublin Castle and other nearby landmarks. Spotted tons of decadent Irish brass doorknockers along the way.
Trinity College was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I. Today, the campus has some rather Gothic and haunted elements, like this painting of a horned lady.
The eminent institution was straight out of a fantasy novel. I imagined taking magick potion classes at Trinity College Dublin’s School of Botany. (See my video of the School of Botany here.)
Dublin has quite a few quirky and Gothic attractions like The Church Café Bar & Restaurant, set in a converted 17th century church (the stained glass windows and organ remain).
Irish coffee (with whiskey and whipped cream) is a local must-try. My favorite was the elevated version at Vice Coffee.
Nothing like having a fresh latte outside in Europe. I said hi to Oscar Wilde’s statue at Merrion Square in Dublin.
Marsh’s Library is another book lover’s paradise. It is Dublin’s oldest public library – dating back to the 18th century.
I didn’t pay the fee to enter the library and take photos, so you’ll only get this shot of the exterior. (I also came across this Egyptian lamp-bearer while walking around.)
Dublin is one Goth destination… the dark architecture and moody skies are straight out of a The Cure music video.
Also very Gothic: The Dead Zoo, or natural history museum filled with taxidermy and bones. Entry is free, so why not come to see over 10,000 specimens including bats?
For a short day trip from Dublin, take the DART train to Howth, a scenic Irish fishing village on the peninsula.
Take the cliff walk by the water, and see nautical sites like Baily Lighthouse.
Although I’m not into the pub scene, it’s fun to walk around the Temple Bar area at night. Many of the classic pubs, such as The Long Hall, have been around for hundreds of years.
Have you been to Ireland, or dream of going? For more, see my reel (set to Enya) of my Long Room at Trinity College visit.
Let’s finish off with a few 2024 adventures that I haven’t yet shared on the blog. In the summer, my friend Sancho Angulo and I went to Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology at UBC, which has re-opened after an 18-month seismic revamp.
Sancho and I spent hours exploring the UBC Museum of Anthropology, which has over 50,000 global cultural works lit up by Arthur Erickson’s modernist architecture. One of the centerpieces is Bill Reid’s sculpture of Haida creation myth “The Raven and the First Men.”
The Museum Of Anthropology has the world’s most magnificent collection of Indigenous northwest coast art, including towering totem poles and long houses outside. Whenever friends travel to Vancouver, I encourage them to visit my fav local museum – I think the photos speak for themselves!
You may recall that Sancho Angulo and I were both on CTV’s game show, Battle of the Generations. We have more travels and road trips planned ahead… stay tuned for our next escapades.
I also did a summer getaway to Harrison Hot Springs, the resort town near Vancouver. I enjoyed the hotel’s 90s vibe and swimming pool, and got to hang with the sasquatch statues.
Every summer, I make sure to get in some “Beach Goth” time (with lots of sun protection, always). Wearing a Beach Goth t-shirt from Cat and Bat designs, indie purveyors of Gothic cotton shirts.
I also did a work trip to Del Boca Vista, aka Fort Lauderdale and Orlando, Florida. Here are some snaps from my tropical Goth pool day at Lake Nona Wave Hotel.
I was fond of the Lake Nona sculpture garden, which contains a menagerie of large-scale works. This Miffy one spoke to me.
A funny airport story… I had to go through an extra security check because TSA didn’t recognize my 90s Nintendo Game Boy when it went through the scanner! Agents were confused and probably thought it was a b-o-m-b. Security said they hadn’t seen this device in forever. But Super Mario Land is the best game ever… And the reason I wanted to go to Easter Island!
I was in Florida to write about Michelin starred chef Ryan Ratino’s new Florida restaurants, Omo by Jont and Maass, for publications including Observer. Check out my video about dining at Ryan Ratino’s restaurants — yasss, chef. You can read my travel and food writing on my freelance journalism portfolio page.
And now, tis time for me to lie flat for the season… were you sassy or sweet this year? (From Elf’s Pub at Fairmont Chateau Laurier in Ottawa, with Sancho Angulo @sanchoangulo). Wishing you the best for the ho-ho-holidays, and see you in 2025!
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Visiting the Miffy Museum in Utrecht, Netherlands! Nijntje Pleintje statue, traffic lights & Schiphol airport shops.
As a hardcore Miffy fan, it was a dream come true… to visit the Miffy Museum in Utrecht, Holland!
The recently-opened Nijntje Museum is dedicated to the X-mouthed bunny (that’s her name in Dutch). I took advantage of a brief Netherlands stopover to visit with Leyla, my fashion blogger and vlogger friend (who made a video of the trip on her LeylaFashion YouTube.)
Get ready for Miffy Madness. We’ll take you inside each room of the museum, as well as the Nijntje Pleintje plaza, traffic lights crossing, and gift stores dedicated to this adorable mascot!
(Update – I now have a travel guide to Miffy shops in Amsterdam, Netherlands too! It covers De Winkel Van Nijntje, Mr Maria and more.)
We couldn’t resist posing with X-fingers to mimic her mouth. However Leyla’s son, Danny, seems ready to go inside…
Address and directions: The Miffy Museum is located at Agnietenstraat 2, 3512 XB Utrecht, Netherlands. Utrecht is the hometown of her creator, illustrator Dick Bruna, and a 30 minute train ride from Amsterdam. The museum is open every day except Mondays, from 10am to 5pm.
How to get here by train: I came straight from my stopover in Schiphol Airport (Amsterdam). I rode the train — track 1 or 2, direction Heerlen or Nijmegen — and arrived in half an hour at Utrecht Centraal Station. From there, you can walk 15-20 minutes or take a short bus ride. You can also come here direct from Amsterdam Central or any major station.
When you arrive, look for the giant statue of Miffy in a red sweater, and the sign “Nijntje Museum” next to a light-up outline of her head.
Earlier in 2016, the museum reopened after a significant renovation. Now, the two-level building brings Miffy’s universe to life, with colorful and interactive displays for kids and adults.
The human-sized statue is from the Miffy Art Parade in 2015, a project that celebrated her 60th anniversary.
Sixty artists decorated a gargantuan Miffy statue, in a variety of styles ranging from creepy Goth to rubber ducky. (There are photos of these statues at the end of this post, so keep reading). The works went on display all over the Netherlands and Japan.
Many people mistakenly think that Miffy is Japanese, because of her “kawaii” and minimal look. In fact, she’s Dutch and older than Hello Kitty. (Sanrio even got sued for copying her design; the court ordered them to discontinue their “Cathy the bunny” character.)
Her name, Nijntje, is a shortening of “konijntje,” which means “little rabbit.” Dick Bruna released his first bunny book in 1955, followed by over 30 more. She’s also the face of many fashion and home good products – shop a selection below.
Dick Bruna’s storytelling and bright drawings have proved to be timeless. Even today, children are charmed by the Miffy universe he created — including her family, Grunty the pig, and Boris the bear.
The Nijntje Museum puts his deceptively simple illustrations front-and-center. For example, the lockers are decorated with different drawn objects, for easy remembrance.
The Japanese characters spell out “yokoso,” or welcome — because visitors from Asia (especially Japan) are plentiful!
People from all over the world are flocking over to see Miffy’s museum, which has quickly become one of Utrecht’s most popular attractions. I recommend getting tickets online in advance, and arriving early to avoid crowds (doors are open from 10am to 5pm, Sunday to Tuesdays).
The Miffy Museum is designed as a series of magical miniature worlds. There are 10 rooms, which look like scenes from the picture books come to life.
In this one, her star-mouthed mother stands over the family kitchen. Children can pretend to cut vegetables, cook, and even climb through the cabinets.
There are all sorts of interactive displays for fans of all ages. Leyla and I snuggle up to the plush bunny and Snuffy the dog.
(PS: I’m selling some of my Miffy fashion and accessories here; email me if you’d like anything! My sandals are this Joanie Mule by Sorel Footwear.)
The museum’s displays encourage you to “play house” and let your imagination roam free.
We helped Miffy work in the garden. I must have done something wrong because her dad seems to be watering me with his can…
I’ve been a Miffy obsessive for years, but I developed a deeper appreciation for artist Dick Bruna after seeing his full oeuvre.
The museum’s figurehead is his white bunny, his most popular creation (her books are translated into 50 languages and sold more than 85 million copies).
However, Dick Bruna wrote more than 100 other picture books for children, and also did graphic design for organisations including hospitals. I got to see these lesser-known yet equally impressive works for the first time.
Dick Bruna is known to be a very kind man, and his children’s books promoted the acceptance of everyone, including those who are different or disabled — very progressive themes for his time. This room encouraged children to help others in need of medical treatments.
Dick Bruna was inspired by Matisse, and his works are tied together by simplistic forms and blocks of primary colors. This room shows his interpretation of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. (Danny loved running up and down the ramp!)
As we moved through the rooms, we got to see Nijntje’s evolution. In the first books, she looked a plush toy with floppy ears. From the 1960s onward, her face got rounder and her ears stood up.
The rabbit’s simple look and narratives are key to her appeal: anyone can project their imagination onto her. In my case, she’s a creepy-cute minimal Goth icon with her mouth sewn shut, hence the X!
Dick Bruna always portrayed Miffy as a regular little girl with universal experiences such as making a new friend (the brown bunny Melanie), or suffering the death of a grandmother.
The museum is full of play areas: matching games, puzzles, funhouse mirrors. As Bruna said in an interview, “The most difficult thing is keeping it simple, to leave plenty of room for the child’s imagination.”
Danny fell in love with this spacious room, beautifully designed with cars and trains that you can push or ride.
Bruna’s world keeps children engaged while helping them learn. He wrote a book about safely crossing the road, illustrated in minimal orange and grayscale.
But as you can see from our funny Instagram shuffle... navigating roadways is a lesson for all ages!
(There’s actually a working Miffy traffic signal, in Utrecht. Keep scrolling down to see the real deal.)
Whether you’re a toddler or grown-up, you can’t help but smile as you explore the Miffy Museum. Her world is all about creativity, positivity and imagination — expressed in bold primary paints and outlines.
On the upper level, there’s a space that represents a zoo and farm. These two parrots repeat your words when you speak into a microphone. Danny loved crawling through the cages and going down the slide.
Dick Bruna has a genius for conveying the essence of an animal, with only a few brushstrokes. His simple forms add up to a warm, minimal style that’s unmistakably his own.
The only negative about the Nijntje Museum… It’s hard to say goodbye! Leyla and I felt like this crying child, when it was time to go. We’ll simply have to come back again soon.
(My Miffy top is for sale on my Depop shop, and my shoes are the Sorel Joanie Mule.)
Thankfully, there are more Miffy sights to see in Utrecht, making it the ideal day trip from Amsterdam.
Right across the street from the statue is Centraal Museum, which features a range of artwork including by locals.
In the atelier of Centraal Museum, you’ll find an exact replica of Dick Bruna’s studio. Everything from his original workshop has been set up here, from his drafting table to a modern chair in primary colors.
The circular painting shows his simple yet powerful design of the black bears (zwarte beertjes).
I watched a fascinating video of Dick Bruna at work. To this day, he continues to draw with brush and ink: it takes many precise strokes to create the seemingly simple X of Miffy’s mouth. The slight shake in the hand-drawn forms results in what he calls “a line with a heartbeat.”
Dick Bruna always appreciated his fans, and kept displays of the mementos that they sent him. The studio let us get a closer look at his creative process, and I recommend visiting Central Museum too (it’s just across the street from the Miffy Museum).
You can’t leave Utrecht without seeing Miffy’s crosswalk. The bunny shows up as the pedestrian traffic signal: red for “Don’t Walk,” and green for “Go.”
Look for the rainbow colored crossing called ‘Regenboogzebrapad’, and you’ll find her directing traffic. (Location: it’s in front of the shopping mall at St Jacobsstraat 1A, 3511 Utrecht, Netherlands.)
A short walk away is Nijntje Pleintje, a dark Miffy statue created by Dick Bruna’s son, Marc Bruna. (Address: 1e Achterstraat 1, 3512 VL Utrecht, Netherlands).
Nijntje Pleintje is located in this little grassy square, at the beginning of the Van Asch van Wijckskade. It looks like a flat, black metal, cut-out Goth version of the bunny — which matches our style rather well.
(You’ll laugh when you see the Boomerang Instagram video we did, next to this statue!)
But wait — how can you take Miffy home with you? There are several Netherlands gift stores that you can’t miss — they even have vampire Gothic versions of the bunny. Keep reading the rest of the story below…
LA CARMINA
