Category Archive for Food + Theme Restaurants
Tohoku, Japan: travel, restaurants, food guide! Aomori apples, Hachimantai Iwate Geibikei Gorge, Morioka wanko soba.
Tohoku, Japan – I love you!
I’m a huge stan of Tohoku, the laid-back and mountainous region north of Tokyo that extends to the tip of Honshu Island (the landscapes look straight out of a Ghibli anime film). Last November, I returned to several areas and filled my cup with the phenomenal food, natural hot springs, and stunning cultural and outdoor experiences.
Traveling in Tohoku’s six prefectures (Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata, and Fukushima) feels like a throwback to 1990s Japan. Unlike in the currently way-overtouristed major cities, I can experience traditional culture, food, and adorable activities like apple picking without running into crowds of foreigners.
Read on for a travel and restaurants guide to Tohoku, featuring photos by Joey Wong!
How do you like them Aomori apples? Northern Japan’s fruits are as fabulous as you can get, especially after a light rain. You can take a quick, inexpensive flight from Tokyo to Aomori to reach this prefecture located south across the water from Hokkaido.
We picked apples straight from the trees at this Kuroishi, Aomori farm… it was like being the main character in a pastoral anime.
Tohoku is also known for its mouthwatering grapes, pears, cherries, and other produce, which flourish in the rich soil and temperate climate.
Ah, what I’d do for another bite of these crisp, juicy apples… Pics Joey Wong.
Close-up on my Tohoku mascot themed nails by Glam Nail Studio in Vancouver, BC. The vintage 1970s sheepskin and suede coat is from a Parco Shibuya vintage boutique. (No microplastics to be found here!)
The Kuroishi apple farmer looked a bit like an apple… how sweet!
I say you haven’t lived until you’ve snatched an apple straight off a branch and bitten into it.
Speaking of mouthwatering food… we ate sukiyaki (beef and veg dipped into hot broth) before exploring the nature destination of Ichinoseki, Iwate. The Pacific Ocean’s currents create a thriving environment for fish and seafood, while the region’s rugged terrain is ideal for farming and raising cattle.
“The maple leaves here were especially beautiful, so thick as to blot out the white ribbon of the falls and stain the water at the edge of the pond a deep scarlet.” – Spring Snow (1969) by Yukio Mishima. The brilliant novelist’s words came to mind as we glided through Geibikei Gorge in south Iwate.
As he steered with the long pole, the boatman serenaded us with an a-capella folk song! You can hear him singing here (swipe the carousel for the video).
Iwate, Tohoku the only place in Japan to experience a traditional flat-bottomed boat ride between fiery rock cliffs.
And this, my friends, is why you should avoid the over-touristed Japanese cities and go north to this gorgeous region — especially in the fall for leaf peeping.
The oarsman gave us bread to feed the ducks that swam next to our long boat.
It’s giving Jim Jones… my 70s style sunglasses by Arena Eyewear match the mood of my vintage leather and sheep collar coat.
I think it’s obvious why autumn is my fav season for visiting Japan! (I try to avoid the overly hot and humid summers, jam-packed sakura season in spring, and chilly winters.)
Being ferried through the high rock cliffs of Iwate’s Geibikei Gorge by a folk-song-singing oarsman… now that’s a Japan journey to remember.
There’s so much meaningful food and culture to experience throughout Tohoku. One of our favorite moments was taking a cooking lesson with the adorable Grandmother Hitomi at her farmhouse in Hachimantai, Iwate, Japan.
In this new feature, I chatted with Voyapon about why I keep returning to the region north of Tokyo, esp for its culinary culture. “In Hachimantai, Iwate, I took a cooking class with the adorable Grandmother Hitomi. Her charming, rustic home felt straight out of a movie set, and she had a constant smile on her face as she taught me how to grind miso paste, brush it over rice on a stick, and grill this comforting dish over charcoal.”
She taught us how to make regional homestyle dishes like this hearty vegetable soup. Her traditional farm house was beyond cinematic (images by Joey Wong).
Grandma Hitomi Sato is remarkably independent and sprightly. She makes meals out of the fresh ingredients grown in her garden, which are enriched by the fresh mountain water.
We tried these seasonal chestnuts… delicious! (With Janet Cam and Nevin Martell).
Grandmother Hitomi taught us how to make regional kiritanpo, or rice sticks brushed with miso paste and grilled over charcoal. Talk about a warm and comforting snack.
We sat down to a diverse meal that included mountainside mushrooms, pickled vegetables, and her handmade soba noodles.
You can’t help but smile when in the presence of these kindhearted grannies!
My blue-light blocking glasses are by Gunnar Optiks.
The sweetest bye-bye… I hope you’ll get a chance to travel to Hachimantai for a cooking class and lunch with Grandma Hitomi!
Time to chill at the dreamiest Japanese hot springs: Nyuto Onsenkyo Magoroku Onsen Rokuan in Akita, the northern Honshu prefecture known for its snowy peaks,
Located in the misty mountains of Nyuto Onsenkyo, Magoroku Onsen Rokuan was founded in 1902. It’s located in a natural onsen area favored by the samurai.
There were a variety of soaking options, including mixed gender shared outdoor baths. My room had its own outdoor open-air bath on the patio — a dream come true.
Watch my video to see me relaxing in my private open-air bath surrounded by beech forests and rugged snow-topped mountains. (Sound on, as the soundtrack is from Kill Bill and Lady Snowblood!)
One of our favorite dining experiences on the trip was — unexpectedly — at Nyuto Onsenkyo Magoroku Rokuan. I’m still thinking about the set menu that included juicy local beef with vegetables, and fresh fruits…
Musubi-an Restaurant offers local, seasonal flavors (such as chestnut and sashimi), which are testament to the exceptional culinary culture of Tohoku.
Watch my reel from this Akita onsen ryokan. Wouldn’t you like to run away and relax here?
Tōhoku is easy to reach by bullet train, which lets you get away from the insufferable tourists that are currenly overrunning Tokyo, Osaka and other major centers.
We ushered in the Year of the Horse at the sustainable Geofarm Hachimantai.
We petted the retired racehorses and sampled mushrooms ingeniously grown in a greenhouse with their compost. After, the rich soil is used to feed crops, continuing the sustainability cycle.
Another beautiful outdoor experience: stream trekking or cycling at Oirase Gorge in Towada, Aomori. The river valley stretches 14 km from Lake Towada, and is lush with moss, rocks, and waterfalls.
We also stepped into the majestic Towada Shrine, which was founded in 807 is guarded by stone lion-dogs.
As I love experiencing Japanese art and culture firsthand, I was delighted by Tsugaru-han Neputa-mura. The traditional village is filled with the massive, illuminated lantern floats from the yearly Hirosaki Neputa matsuri or festival.
I was blown away by the artistry and scale of the handpainted lanterns, and enjoyed getting to know Hirosaki’s local history and rituals. We got to participate in activites like making a lantern out of upcycled nebuta papers, pounding on taiko drums, and listening to a shamisen stringed instrument performance.
Aomori’s cooler climate also makes it an emerging spot for natural wines, some of which are blended with juicy local cherries, pears, peaches, and apples. I’m still thinking about the Italian-Japanese meal I had at Chef Michiaki Sasamori’s Osteria Enoteca Da Sasino. After training at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, he returned to his hometown – the castle town of Hirosaki – with the aim of developing it into a winemaking region. Sasamori established a vineyard at the foot of Mount Iwaki where he produces phenomenal small-batch Nebbiolos and Malvasias, as well as his own charcuterie.
Akita’s spectacular produce and rice come alive in the beautifully presented vegan kaiseki of Chef Eiko Suwa’s Kuromanta, which focuses on fermented dishes and seasonal, organic plants and herbs from her garden.
How exquisite is the layout of her plant-based dishes?
The attention to detail and quality of produce were at the highest level, even in “simple” dishes like this char-grilled rice on a stick.
Tohoku is also famous for its sake, and has some breweries run by the descendents of the original samurai owners. At Washino-O, which was founded in 1829, we tried various sakes of different strengths and went behind the scenes to learn about the bespoke brewing process (which uses mineral rich water from Mt Iwate).
Impressed by the fine dining throughout Tohoku. At Ristaurante Shikazawa, Iwate chef Yasuyuki Shikazawa combines his hometown’s finest ingredients in artful presentations. A tasting course might include matsutake mushrooms, tender guinea fowl, and sweet Kamaishi scallops from the thriving Sanriku Coast.
I also ate my fill of “wanko soba” at Azumaya Soba Shop, which was founded in 1907. The staff hands you unlimited bowls containing small portions of buckwheat noodles, and chants “Jan jan, don don” as you slurp them down. Try to see how many bowls you can eat — the record is 570. I managed 37, which is above average! (Morioka’s kawaii Wanko Brothers mascot is based on this popular dish.)
All around Tohoku, travelers can take part in interactive experiences involving food, art, culture, and the great outdoors. There’s so much to experience within a few hours train ride from the capital!
For more about why I adore traveling in Tohoku, read my “Living Japan” feature with pics by Joey Wong on Voyapon.
I also wanted to share my latest travel writing — for the spring print issue of Tricycle: The Buddhist Review! I wrote about must-visit Buddhist attractions in Tokyo, including a cyber cemetery, Gotokuji lucky cats temple (more photos and info here), and Vowz bar run by monks. Ps: you can read my Tricycle Buddhist travel article without the paywall here.
For more adventures from Tohoku and other parts of Japan, find me @lacarmina on Instagram.
And if you dig my style, you can check out my Goth fashion for sale on Poshmark (Canada) and Depop (USA / international). Please take a browse, and reach out –– I’d be delighted to send you a package of dark delights!
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Halifax, Nova Scotia: Best museums, art & history attractions, & local restaurants! Nova Scotian food, culture, travel tips.
“Hali-Facts” — Halifax, Nova Scotia is the most wonderful summer destination! Maritime Canadians are oh so friendly, and the walkable waterfront, markets and historic sites warmed my heart… Being here made me feel as if I were back in the glorious 1990s.
In my previous blog post, I took you along on my road trip to Nova Scotian historic attractions and museums.
This time, I’ll highlight the intriguing history, art and culture sites found in the capital — such as Halifax Public Gardens above. I’ll also give my recommendations for the best restaurants in the province, from creative tasting menus to down-home seafood. (All photos by Joey Wong).
On the Halifax waterfront: can you tell I’m loving it here! Four km of wooden boardwalk overlooking the ocean, peppered with Canadian flags, restaurant patios and artisan markets… Nova Scotia’s capital city is a vibe.
So glad I’m focusing on Canadian travel and finally made a summer trip to explore Nova Scotia museums, historic sites and culture.
To see footage of me exploring Halifax’s top museums and historic landmarks, watch my IG video here!
I had never been to the Canadian Maritimes, and was delighted to kick back on a purple Adirondack chair to people-watch at the working port.
One of Canada’s oldest cities (est 1749), Halifax has many cultural attractions within walking distance of the gorgeous harbour.
My “fueled by microplastics and spite” bag by Mourning Breath Shoppe got so many compliments and is 100% me (as well as 100% cotton). Doing my best to wear natural materials, minimize plastics and get the word out on the horrors of nano and microplastics these days!
You can take a boat tour out on these sparkling waves for views of lighthouses and Georges Island National Historic Site. This green mound of an isle within Halifax Harbour was an 18th century military fortification.
Under the sea… I dove into Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, which covers everything from ocean explorers to the province’s role in the Titanic ship rescue operations.
This “kawaii” cute playground outside the museum sets the tone for the informative yet fun exhibits inside, which focus on oceanic events that shaped the province’s history.
With over 30,000 artifacts, this is Canada’s largest and oldest maritime museum.
Looks like this pirate ship is about to be attacked by Cthulhu! Arrr, I’d invite the Lovecraftian Old God to join my pirate crew.
Halifax is connected to the Titanic shipwreck because it was the primary base of recovery, and home to the world’s largest number of Titanic graves (many victims are buried at Fairview Lawn Cemetery).
Posing on Queen’s Landing, the steps at Queen’s Marque (a mixed-use public space by the water).
Watch my short video here to see me playfully exploring Halifax’s museums and seawall.
An outfit change to shoot in Halifax Public Gardens with photographer Joey Wong. I’m inadvertently channeling Mira from Kpop Demon Hunters / Huntrix. (Fit check for my napalm era…)
Founded in 1838, these Halifax gardens are a study in Victorian elegance: a classic bandstand, flower gardens and a fairytale bridge over a brook.
I’m wearing a red silk Chinese halter qipao or cheungsam by Beth and Brian Qipao. 100% mulberry silk over synthetics, always! My leather silver skull bag is Alexander McQueen.
Halifax was founded on June 21, 1749 by the British, hence the influence of Victorian-era architecture like these wrought iron entrance gates.
The gardens are a popular spot for wedding, graduation and prom photos for obvious reasons!
Onward to Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, Atlantic Canada’s largest art museum — set in this fetching Italianate downtown building.
The Art Gallery mainly features Nova Scotian works, such as by folk artist Maud Lewis (you might be familiar with her bright, colorful and charming paintings of animals such as cats).
Another must: Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, which celebrates the country’s diversity and Halifax’s history as the port of entry for a million people around WWII.
I was a fan of The Old Burying Ground, est 1749. These tombstones, some of which have old-time skull carvings, are giving Goth.
Now we’re going up, up, up to Halifax Citadel, the hilltop fort founded by the British in 1749.
Originally named Fort George after King George III, this impressive national historic site overlooks the harbour and is shaped like a star. Climb up and walk around the top of the walls to see cannons.
Standing on guard for thee — uniformed and marching Canadian soldiers.
Learn about the military history of Halifax and see collections from the past at the Army Museum.
It felt like stepping back in time as you make your way around Halifax Citadel’s fortifications.
Now, let’s focus on food! I was excited to try Nova Scotian cuisine as I’d heard so much about the fresh seafood and Acadian dishes.
The food scene turned out to be spectacular — so let me give you a rundown of my favorite places to eat in Halifax and other locations around the province. (Watch my Instagram @lacarmina reel for an overview of everywhere we dined in NS.)
Halifax has a lovely fine dining scene, especially downtown and by the water. You can’t go wrong with an Aperol spritz at the counter of Italian restaurant Pazzo Ristorante & Enoteca.
The two-floor restaurant is set in a gilded heritage building — talk about putting on the ritz.
Indulge in the creamy burrata, and get the pesto made right at the table (it doesn’t get fresher than this). Pazzo also has the most delectable tiramisu in Halifax, as you can tell from the photo, so save room for it!
For food, wine, fire — Tribute Restaurant is perhaps the most creative fine dining spot in the city. Or rather, “fun dining” — the experience is laid-back and full of Maritime Canadian hospitality.
Halifax chef Colin Bebbington plays with Nova Scotia seasonal ingredients such as halibut, interacting with guests from the open kitchen.
The wine pairings are wonderful with his beautifully plated dishes that pull from a variety of influences, such as a family lasagna recipe from the time he spent cooking in Bologna, Italy.
The live fire and charcoal add impact to the ever-changing dishes.
Cheers to Tribute for a chef’s tasting menu to remember!
I was keen to sink my teeth into Nova Scotia’s famous, affordable seafood — and found several favorites. Evan’s Seafood (at Alderney Landing across the bridge from Halifax in Dartmouth) doles out local-caught haddock, crab, scallops, lobster and more at excellent prices.
When Joey and I drove to Peggy’s Cove, we made sure to factor in a stop at Shaw’s Landing…
I mean, these pan-fried Digby scallops speak for themselves!
Watch my IG reel of all the food I ate in Nova Scotia for footage from Shaw’s Landing and other eateries.
The lobster roll, lobster chowder, fish and chips and more were sensational.
It’s well worth the trip to West Dover / Peggy’s Cove for authentic Maritime food from fishing communities.
One of my favorite moments from the trip was connecting with Chef Pamela Leonforde, proprietor of Café Caye Mangé in Yarmouth.
As photographer Joey Wong wrote: “La Carmina and I are always on the lookout for interesting food, and while we were in Yarmouth, Carmina discovered her cafe. She was so impressed by the quality, uniqueness, and Pam’s warmth that she brought me the next day to try more dishes and learn about Pamela’s journey and what inspired her to open a Caribbean plant-based spot in tiny Yarmouth.”
“It was so inspiring to hear how passionate Chef Pamela is about bringing healthy food to the community. During our chat, she told us her cafe is the only one of its kind outside of Halifax, and she often welcomes visitors from all over especially Americans arriving by ferry. Beyond running the cafe, Pamela also gives public talks to promote healthy cooking and nutrition, and she collaborates with the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre. It was a wonderful encounter with another ‘come-from-away’ who has made Nova Scotia her home.”
In an area of Nova Scotia that mainly serves hearty and fried food, I was delighted to dine on healthy, homemade meals (all vegan and made with natural ingredients, with many gluten-free options) at the peaceful Café Caye Mangé. Please come visit Chef Pamela and say hi for me — her rotating desserts and Caribbean black bean burger are a must-try!
We also adored The Emerald Light Kitchen + Bar in Shelburne, a chill waterfront town still untouched by mass tourism. We sat in the back patio of this picturesque green house to dine on flavorful local food made with care. Start with cocktails made from ingredients like strawberries and craft liquor by local Boatskeg Distilling Co.
We had a hard time choosing what to order as everything on the menu sounded so good! The garlic shrimp po’boy, Annapolis Blomidon brie salad, and seared scallops and shrimp (with sweet and spicy chorizo jam, cherry tomato, mixed greens, pickled red onion) were full of flavor and made from healthy, quality ingredients — as you can tell from the colors of the spread.
Still thinking about The Emerald Light’s signature tomato soup and grilled cheese… This restaurant in Shelburne is a total gem.
Nova Scotia has a rich Acadian history, so we were keen to try these distinct French settler dishes at La Cuisine Robicheau in Saulnierville. Tip: you can order a taste of rappie pie, a gelatinous potato dish with clam or chicken, for just a few bucks. It’s a must and so unexpectedly delicious!
Hot creamed lobster, pan fried haddock with lemon, and Nova Scotian white wines served in a homey space — what a heart-warming Acadian meal.
Finally, make your way to Wolfville wine country for stand-out cuisine at Juniper Food + Wine. Chef Geoff Hopgood sources ingredients from small Nova Scotian producers and pairs his beautiful, seasonal dishes with Canadian natural wines. (Had to get my scallops fix, gently seasoned and served with edible leaves and flowers.)
Juniper’s menu changes with the seasons and includes mouth-watering creations like baked potato beignets topped with bacon, sour cream, chives and smoked cheddar.
For more tips, watch my IG reel about all the food we tasted (and where we stayed) in Nova Scotia. You can also see my video about Halifax historic sites here.
Did you know the province has such a rich culture and culinary scene? Cheers to Visit Nova Scotia and HMI Creator Coast for making these travels possible.
PS – If you’re planning to visit Nova Scotia, here’s some inspiration for an itinerary. Read my previous blog post about my road trip to Annapolis, Yarmouth, Wolfville, Shelburne, Birchtown and other historic places in the province.
LA CARMINA
