Category Archive for Alternative Canada
Gothic Victoria, British Columbia! Goth clothing shops, Chinatown Fan Tan Alley, Instagrammable photo locations.
I can’t gallivant around the world to my heart’s content these days… But I can happily partake in local travels. I’m currently in Vancouver, which is gorgeous in the summer — and there’s a lot to explore nearby.
It felt nice to stretch my wings again, by taking a short and safe getaway to Victoria, British Columbia. In my first article, I showed you my royal stay with the Fairmont Empress Hotel, which included purple cocktails and afternoon tea.
Now, I’ll show you some of Victoria’s Goth-est places –– including a Chinese cemetery, and several Gothic and alternative clothing stores!
Read on for a guide to the spooky side of B.C.’s capital city. I’ll also show you the many ways that travel has changed in the pandemic era — such as social distancing signs, QR code menus, and face shield boutiques.
Canada’s westernmost province, British Columbia, has flattened the Covid curve… thanks to the leadership of Provincial Health Officer, Dr Bonnie Henry. (Victoria honored Doctor Bonnie with this mural; she did so well with responding to the crisis that she was even profiled in the NY Times.)
BC residents are now in Phase 3 of the “re-start,” which means careful local travel is permitted. I studied the guidelines carefully, as I didn’t want my trip to potentially cause a burden on the community, or raise risk of transmission.
Outfit info: Black and white sun hat by Tenth Street Hats, yellow and black plaid midi skirt by Sourpuss Clothing, off the shoulder stretch top by Black Milk Clothing.
For those of you who aren’t familiar: Victoria is the capital city of the province of British Columbia. It’s located on Vancouver Island, off the Pacific Coast.
To get from Vancouver to Victoria, you can fly or take the ferry. I recommend taking the 1.5 ferry ride from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay, and reserving tickets through the BC Ferries website well in advance. When you dock, you can drive south about 40 minutes to arrive in downtown Victoria.
Phase 3 suggests that local travellers “bring groceries and essential supplies, if possible.” I took their advice, and stocked up on Paleo, Keto and collagen-filled treats. This way, I didn’t have to stop for snacks along the way.
I’m all about hydration, so I take a reusable drink container with me at all times. This trip was the perfect opportunity to test out my new Zojirushi x Hello Kitty stainless steel mug!
The tumbler is well-insulated, yet lightweight, and can hold either hot or cold drinks. I’ve been a Hello Kitty / Sanrio fan since childhood, so I adore the cute cat and bows design. (It comes in white or black, with gold. They also produced a collaboration rice cooker.)
The tight-fitting lid flips open with a safety lock, and the well-designed stopper and spout prevent spillage. Made with Japanese tech and kawaii, this Zojirushi x Hello Kitty collaboration is a winner.
(The Hello Kitty stuffed plush is from Japan in the 1990s. They don’t make them like they used to.)
Nowadays, you’re allowed to stay in your car during the entire BC Ferries ride. (This wasn’t allowed until Covid hit.)
I prefer this new ferry policy. Finally, I can recline and take a nap inside my parked car. (The photo shows how you can now enjoy the ocean breeze from inside the garage… but the yellow Porsche does not belong to me!)
Everyone is now required to bring a face mask aboard the ferry — a policy I agree with. All passengers must show their masks before boarding, or they may be denied passage.
I put on my cloth face covering, and went to the outside deck for these spectacular views.
I stayed for four nights at the fabulous Fairmont Empress Victoria, which has implemented many new protocols to keep guests safe. (See my full hotel review here.)
The city began as a British settlement in 1843, and was named after the powerful Queen Victoria. The Empress Hotel dates back to 1908, and sits in the perfect location; it’s easy to walk to all of Victoria’s main sights from here.
In these Covid-times, it’s best to spend time outdoors if you’re traveling. Fortunately, Victoria is a terrific city for strolling — there are plentiful parks, beaches, and cultural neighborhoods.
My favorite area was Victoria’s Chinatown. Established in the mid 1800s, this is the second oldest Chinese neighborhood in North America after San Francisco.
I did a curtsy to the lion statues guarding the Gate of Harmonious Interest. This ornate red arch marks the entrance to Chinatown, on Fisgard Street.
You’ll be charmed by the Chinese architecture, such as century-old brick buildings and bright red doors.
What I wore: Hat by Tenth Street Hats, skirt by Sourpuss Clothing, top by Black Milk Clothing.
Victoria’s Chinatown was originally the makeshift home of Chinese immigrants, who came here to pan for gold or work on the Canadian Pacific Railway. Back the, some of these gritty alleys led to opium dens and gambling joints.
Today, Chinatown is a lively collective of restaurants and hip boutiques, lit up by cheery red lanterns.
Look for Chinatown’s hidden Fan Tan Alley, and you’ll come a cross a highly Instagrammable alleyway. This is one of Victoria’s best destinations for local-made clothing and accessories, vinyl records, handcrafted homewares, and other alternative goods.
I’m standing in front of Heart’s Content, Victoria’s ultimate Goth punk and alternative shop. The boutique is owned by a friendly local couple. They’ve been sourcing edgy items (like this Japanese The Clash t-shirt) for over three decades.
I spotted Doc Martens boots, The Misfits tees, Mary Quant tights, Ben Sherman shirts, boned corsets, and other Goth fashion. The front cases were filled with spiked chokers and belts, and skull accessories.
If you like to dress on the dark side, then Heart’s Content is the place to shop.
Fan Tan Alley is one of the the narrowest streets in Canada. Squeeze through and take a photo (it’s one of the most popular Instagram spots in Victoria).
If you’re more of a retro pin-up fashionista, check out Hussy Boutique (also located in this historic neighborhood).
You’ll encounter magic and mystery in Victoria’s Chinatown. I came across this glowing Buddha in a shop window, not far from the Dart Coon Club Cheekungtong (an association of Chinese Freemasons — didn’t realize they existed).
A Black Lives Matter poster by the Gate of Harmonious Interest.
There were also messages about staying safe and flattening the coronavirus curve. 2020… we live in interesting times.
What other Goth and alt shops can you visit in Victoria? Little Shop of Strange, a quirky emporium for taxidermy and spooky oddities. Note the animal skulls with horns, and Baphomet pentagram leggings worn by the mannequin.
The black coffin bookcase is home decor goals. Little Shop of Strange is an eccentric and morbid spot to get local art, jewelry, clothing, and occult items.
Victoria has a great selection of secondhand stores as well. The ghoulishly-named Vintage After Death was one of my favorites.
I spy a skull above a rack of colorful clothing from the 1970s, 80s and 90s.
Use your imagination to mix and match accessories, and put together a standout outfit.
Vintage After Death sells bizarre knick-knacks too: goofy bunny statues, Raggedy Ann horror dolls, sequined Indian tapestries, etc.
Face masks are currently à la mode… Quite a few clothing shops featured them in the display windows.
Who could have predicted that face shields would be the 2020 must-have accessory?
The music store Turn Table even put David Bowie as Aladdin Sane in a medical mask. (I suppose his current stage name would be David Cowie or David Bovid.)
Even this stuffed bunny wears a fabric facemask… and so should you!
As our BC health leader Dr Bonnie says, “Be Calm, Be Kind, Be Safe.” Victoria’s businesses have put up Plexiglass at checkout counters, and set up outdoor seating with social distancing signs.
Dining outside is encouraged, so head to the local favorite Red Fish Blue Fish. (The fish ‘n’ chips shack usually has a long line-up, but now there is barely a wait, as there are no foreign tourists.) Order the BC halibut, and enjoy this view of the Inner Harbour waterfront.
Victoria has many excellent restaurants with patios. A few friends suggested 10 Acres, but I wasn’t able to visit this farm-to-table bistro this time.
However, I had a spectacular dinner at The Courtney Room. Still thinking about the above stuffed handmade pasta with confit mushrooms, basil, chili, parmesan, and bolognese.
And don’t miss out on the Fairmont Hotel Empress’ afternoon tea and award-wining cocktail bar. (I reviewed them in depth, in this post.)
Victoria BC is an ideal destination for those who love nature and spending time outside. Hit up Willows Beach, and find a quiet spot for swimming and relaxing in the sand.
I’m not an outdoors type, but enjoyed a socially distanced hangout with local friends at Willows. Here’s my Goth on the Beach look (I wore a hat, parasol and four layers of sunscreen!)
There are many other beaches and scenic spots around Victoria. You can also drive a short distance to provincial parks such as Goldstream, or to see nearby lakes and waterfalls.
I opted to stay in Victoria, so I did the classic walk on Dallas Road, from Clover Point to Ogden Point. These views…
I also had fun exploring Beacon Hill Park, which was blooming with flowers. Look for the fabulous resident peacocks, who make quite a funny chirping noise!
The Chinese Cemetery is also worth a visit. Established in 1903, this burial ground was designed around feng shui principles. The wind and water elements are strong here — and the graveyard is an important spot for Victoria’s Chinese community.
Never forget that Queen Victoria dressed in all-black and mourned her dead husband for 40 years… No wonder the city named after her has lots for Goths to enjoy!
Cheers to the Fairmont Empress Victoria hotel for a relaxing five-star stay. See my full hotel review, including how they’re handling safety and sanitation, here.
Victoria, British Columbia is a royal gem. Have you heard of this Vancouver Island destination, or been here? Did I miss any of the major Goth spots?
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A luxurious escape to Fairmont Empress Hotel, Victoria: BC reopening to local travel! Afternoon tea, Veranda menu, Q Bar.
It was supposed to be the Summer of Carmina… Instead, we got the Summer of Covid.
But as you will see — I’m making the most of being at home, and creatively styling Goth outfits with face-masks! I even got to do a little bit of safe travelling once again.
My province, British Columbia, is officially in Phase 3 of re-opening — which means locals can take part in “smart, safe and respectful travel within B.C.”
In line with the government’s health regulations, I did a majestic local getaway… and spent four nights at the fabulous Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria, BC! (The island capital is a 1.5 hour ferry ride and short drive from Vancouver, where I’m currently located).
I know many of us are itching to travel again. In these times, I think we must prioritize what’s ethical and responsible to others, or else we risk causing terrible harm. The right approach will vary, depending on where you are and your particular circumstances — but I urge you to veer on the side of caution.
British Columbia has done an outstanding job at planking the curve, and our case numbers have gone down to single digits. I trust our health leaders, who have currently green-lighted local tourism as long as it’s done with care. (Please stay up-to-date with regulations, as these can always change.)
What does the “new normal” of traveling look like, in a pandemic? What’s it like to stay in a hotel like the Fairmont Empress, which has introduced new sanitation and distancing measures?
My hotel experience turned out to be wonderful, with unexpected upsides! Read on to see temperature checks and plastic-wrapped remote controls…
First, let me share my first new outfit photos since the before-times. When Phase 3 was announced, I went and got my roots fixed.
Grateful to my stylist, Chad Evans, for revamping the purple dye and putting it in 1990s space buns! (For a dose of positivity, check out his site BlameChad; he’ll soon be releasing a clothing line of hoodies, with 20% of proceeds going to the BC schizophrenia society.)
I’ve been wearing Goth brand Lip Service since the 90s, and they continue to be at the top of the alternative fashion game. Love their logo halter tank top, and apocalyptic fabric face mask with skulls and daggers.
My Leatherology Elizabeth large bucket bag arrived just in time for my local trip. The black Italian leather is gorgeous, with a handy shoulder strap, gold hardware and magnetic closure.
Leatherology offers a variety of purses and accessories (from messenger to makeup bags), which can be personalized with your initials. Can’t get over how cool the hand-painted monogram looks: LC, in red with white shadow.
My Leatherology Elizabeth bucket purse is lightweight, yet large enough to hold my everyday essentials for traveling (DSLR camera, sunscreen, hat, etc). I’m so happy with the elegant yet edgy look, and delighted to support a BIPOC-owned indie company.
I’m living in my pink Spilt Milk sunglasses this summer, so I glammed them up with a Frame Chain gold chain.
If you thought these glasses accessories were only for librarians, then think again… Frame creates glasses chains that double as chic, luxurious jewelry. My Donnie in yellow gold has a 1970s disco feeling, which is exactly up my dance floor. The flexible loops at the ends slip onto any eyewear, becoming an eye-catching and unusual accessory (which also has a practical use!)
Intrigued by these stunning glasses chains? See more styles from Frame below:
I got new polka-dot sandals by Lola Ramona, my favorite retro-inspired shoemaker. These Chloe Verve sandals have a 70s Boogie Nights feeling with white-on-black circles, an adjustable back strap, and a platform block heel. Plus, they’re comfortable enough for disco-ing all night long.
I hope this fashion coordinate introduces you to some fab new brands (and old favorites like Lip Service) — and gives you some ideas for how to style a Goth face mask! (More photos at the end of this post.)
I did my eyebrows with my go-to Dipbrow Pomade in Ash Brown, by Anastasia Beverly Hills. I’m wearing ABH Liquid Lipstick in the purple “Trust Issues” shade.
Find more of my favorite professional makeup by Anastasia below:
All dressed up — but where to go? As I mentioned at the start of this post, any travel decisions should take into account government guidelines, and whether you’re making a net positive impact on the community you’re visiting (as well if they’re welcoming tourists). In BC, we currently have the go-ahead to support our local travel industry as long as we do so with care.
And so, I packed my face masks and hand sanitizer, loaded the car with snacks and water, and only got out when I arrived at the Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria.
The historic Empress Hotel pays tribute to British Queen Victoria (who was rather Gothic — she loved her mourning gowns!). Designed in the Châteauesque style, the hotel could easily be mistaken for a castle. The Empress opened its doors in 1908, becoming one of the most famous Canadian “railway hotels” built to serve posh train travelers).
(Tip: if you go to the parking level of the Fairmont, you’ll find black and white photos of the chateau over the years.)
The Fairmont Empress went through an elegant restoration in 2017. The lobby preserved the classic royal architecture, while adding modern glam. The staircase was one of my favorite photo-spots.
Love the chic colors… and epic Swarovski chandelier, which reminds me of glittery Chinese shrimp crackers! (That’s a compliment; those snacks are delicious).
The Fairmont Empress shut down for a few months, due to coronavirus. When it re-opened its doors on June 26, I was one of the first guests to check in.
I was reassured to see the hotel had implemented many measures to the reduce risk of contacting the virus. The Fairmont Empress currently allows only 100 guests to stay with them at one time. All the staff wears masks correctly, and they conduct temperature checks at the door.
Have you ever been beeped by an infrared temperature gun? The device doesn’t touch you, and reads your temperature in a second.
I felt safe from the moment I checked in, as I knew the Fairmont was taking screening seriously. The hotel also only allows registered guests inside (if you’re going to the restaurants, you use a separate entrance). Instead of valet, the hotel has an easy self-parking garage.
The hotel was spotless, and there was hand sanitizer everywhere.
I’m actually pleased that everyone is being more vigilant, as I’m a bit of a germophobe! I always refused to touch handrails, door knobs and elevator buttons, and I wore a mask whenever I flew on a plane. I used to be considered the weirdo… but now everyone acts like me.
The Fairmont’s new Covid protections blend seamlessly with the interior design. Note the clear Plexiglass, and the hand sanitizer in pretty bottles.
The Fairmont Empress team did a great job at creating elegant signage, such as these physical distancing stickers that kept people six feet / two meters apart. All of these protocols were carefully checked by inspectors, and abide by the All Stay Well #AllSafe initiative for hotels.
I quickly discovered that there were a lot of unexpected benefits to traveling locally, in an era when international passport holders are banned from entering Canada.
For instance, there were no longer long line-ups and crowds of tourists everywhere. I could take images like this without anyone photo-bombing me!
Victoria, BC is paradise in the summertime. Since the Fairmont only allows a limited number of guests right now, I got a spectacular harbour view room with this view of the water.
Located at 721 Government Street, the Empress is in the heart of Downtown Victoria, right by the Parliament Buildings. Hip boutiques and restaurants are within an easy walking distance (I’ll show you what I found, in the next story).
My 5-star room was enormous and comfortable, with a sitting area and windows looking out at the Inner Harbour.
For now, there is no room service, and housekeeping will not enter your room unless you request a cleaning. The hotel also leaves each room unoccupied for 48 hours prior to a final cleaning and the next check-in.
I was excited to find hand sanitizer, wipes, and disposable masks in the room. And look… the TV remote control is now wrapped in plastic. (Remotes were my germophobe pet peeve in the past, so this is a most welcome development!).
I enjoyed wandering through the long hallways, and coming across spooky furniture like these curved cabinets. Not surprisingly, the Empress Hotel is alleged to be haunted. Guests have spotted the ghost of the architect, Francis Rattenbury, walking the halls with a cane. (If he’s anything like my dad, he’s probably making sure the building meets fire and accessibility codes).
The Fairmont’s polices maintain balance, and let guests have a more relaxed and uncrowded experience. You can ask front desk for access to the swimming pool, which allows 20 people max, or 4 in the hot tub. The Willow Stream Spa also keeps numbers down (ie, 2 people or 1 household can use the steam room or sauna at a time).
Be sure to explore every part of the Fairmont Empress, as it is blossoming with history. The Palm Court, which is now used for weddings and events, is crowned with this magnificent stained glass dome. The Tiffany-style circular ceiling was boarded up and forgotten over the years, only to be re-discovered in 1989 and restored to its former glory.
The high ceilings and old-time finishings make my imagination soar… I imagined that I was sitting down for a drink at the bar in Kubrick’s The Shining!
Even if you aren’t staying at the Fairmont Empress, you should come by for the legendary afternoon tea, a special occasion fit for a royal.
Dress up (I saw some women wearing fascinator hats!) and savor tea and fresh-baked delicacies on a stacked tray. The tearoom offers Prince and Princess options for children as well.
Seems like the right place to do an “I’m a little teapot” pose. The doors open at 1pm, and a piano player fills the room with classical music.
In the past, the Empress afternoon tea was dominated by foreign and cruise ship tourists. Now, there’s plenty of space for locals to relax and enjoy the tradition. (The tables are separated to maintain distance, making it feel more private as well).
Cheers to starting the day with sparkling wine! The Fairmont Empress ethically sources tea from top producers, and offers an extensive selection (I went for the creamy Earl Gray).
The staff can cater to food allergies, and the delights are prepared from local ingredients — including honey from the hotel’s bee hives, and lavender from their garden.
Two thumbs up to the warm scones with house-made clotted cream and strawberry lavender preserve. I also adored the cucumber sandwiches, sockeye salmon and chive crème fraîche blini, and coronation chicken curry brioche. And how adorable are the desserts, decorated with cherries and gold foil.
Since we are encouraged to dine outside to prevent the spread of Covid, the Fairmont Hotel Empress is now offering a Picnic on the Lawn package. The staff puts together a luxury picnic lunch, which you can enjoy on a blanket on the spacious grounds — facing the harbour and surrounded by flowers.
Guests can also have a meal at Q Restaurant, where the tables sit far apart. One wall is lined with portraits of Queen Victoria, showing her grow from a young lady to the Empress Dowager.
Rather than handling shared menus, patrons of Q Restaurant and Bar can use their smartphones to scan a QR code at each table. This opens up a menu that you can read on your phone!
As you can see, the Pacific Northwest breakfast was a hit. Try the eggs Benedict and buttermilk pancakes, made from sustainably sourced proteins and fresh regional produce.
From the Victorian era to the Covid age, the purple Empress rules. How lovely are the high, cherry wood ceilings with intricate mouldings? (The clear plastic shield is new, but barely visible.)
I’m still dreaming about the cocktails I sipped at Q Bar, which was deservedly named one of Canada’s best 50 bars. They are known for concocting beautiful drinks with the locally crafted Empress 1908 Gin, which is naturally purple thanks to a pea blossom infusion.
Thumbs up to the signature Q 1908 (above), which pairs the gin with lemon juice, sugar, egg white, and a butterfly pea flower on top. I also adored the Rock Paper Scissors (dark cacao and port), Concord (mezcal, crème de violette, luxardo maraschino, lemon), and Old Fashioned with Czech absinthe and fresh rosemary.
After months of eating at home, it was a pleasure to dine al fresco at the Veranda. I enjoyed a veggie-packed lunch on the patio, while looking out at the water.
Treat yourself to an Empress purple gin and tonic, and red wine sangria with fresh fruit. You’ll love the colors and flavors of the heirloom tomato and bocconcini salad, sourced from nearby farms. Veranda’s menu also offers local delights like Coho salmon, Haida Gwaii halibut, and hand-made tagliatelle with fungi.
The desserts couldn’t be prettier, topped with edible flowers. That’s a bergamot posset cream with raspberry, amaro jelly, and fennel pollen shortbread at the front. Behind: a Saanichton berry shortcake with amaretto sponge, crème fraîche mousse, and Tahitian vanilla.
I hope you’ll get a chance to live like a Queen at the Fairmont Empress in Victoria. Even if you don’t stay overnight, do come for a meal and to wander the gardens.
So many lush backdrops to shoot my Lip Service Goth halter shirt and skull cross mask.
Grateful to have my hair looking healthy and violet again, thanks to my stylist Chad Evans of BlameChad (his salon is in downtown Vancouver BC).
In an upcoming post, I’ll show you more of what I saw in Victoria, British Columbia. I walked all around in my Lola Ramona polka-dotted Chloe Verve sandals.
I carried around a Leatherology Elizabeth bucket bag monogrammed with my initials — it’s designed perfectly for local travel.
I’m smiling under my fabric mask. It’s nice to feel a sense of normalcy again thanks to local exploration. (Long black skirt by Charli Cohen.)
If you’re living in British Columbia where mindful local tourism is endorsed, then treat yourself to a stay at the Fairmont Empress in Victoria. (Or if you’re reading this in the future, and borders are open to international travelers, then I hope you’ll get the chance to visit.)
I can vouch that they did a fabulous job keeping guests safe, and making you feel like a queen.
You can also see my review of the Fairmont Banff Springs, from last fall. I’m excited to show you more places to visit in beautiful British Columbia soon. (Next up: an alternative guide to Victoria.)
What’s the current situation for travel, wherever you are living? How do you feel about the balance between keeping safe from the virus, opening carefully, and supporting local economies?