Tohoku, Japan: travel, restaurants, food guide! Aomori apples, Hachimantai Iwate Geibikei Gorge, Morioka wanko soba.
Tohoku, Japan – I love you!
I’m a huge stan of Tohoku, the laid-back and mountainous region north of Tokyo that extends to the tip of Honshu Island (the landscapes look straight out of a Ghibli anime film). Last November, I returned to several areas and filled my cup with the phenomenal food, natural hot springs, and stunning cultural and outdoor experiences.
Traveling in Tohoku’s six prefectures (Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata, and Fukushima) feels like a throwback to 1990s Japan. Unlike in the currently way-overtouristed major cities, I can experience traditional culture, food, and adorable activities like apple picking without running into crowds of foreigners.
Read on for a travel and restaurants guide to Tohoku, featuring photos by Joey Wong!
How do you like them Aomori apples? Northern Japan’s fruits are as fabulous as you can get, especially after a light rain. You can take a quick, inexpensive flight from Tokyo to Aomori to reach this prefecture located south across the water from Hokkaido.
We picked apples straight from the trees at this Kuroishi, Aomori farm… it was like being the main character in a pastoral anime.
Tohoku is also known for its mouthwatering grapes, pears, cherries, and other produce, which flourish in the rich soil and temperate climate.
Ah, what I’d do for another bite of these crisp, juicy apples… Pics Joey Wong.
Close-up on my Tohoku mascot themed nails by Glam Nail Studio in Vancouver, BC. The vintage 1970s sheepskin and suede coat is from a Parco Shibuya vintage boutique. (No microplastics to be found here!)
The Kuroishi apple farmer looked a bit like an apple… how sweet!
I say you haven’t lived until you’ve snatched an apple straight off a branch and bitten into it.
Speaking of mouthwatering food… we ate sukiyaki (beef and veg dipped into hot broth) before exploring the nature destination of Ichinoseki, Iwate. The Pacific Ocean’s currents create a thriving environment for fish and seafood, while the region’s rugged terrain is ideal for farming and raising cattle.
“The maple leaves here were especially beautiful, so thick as to blot out the white ribbon of the falls and stain the water at the edge of the pond a deep scarlet.” – Spring Snow (1969) by Yukio Mishima. The brilliant novelist’s words came to mind as we glided through Geibikei Gorge in south Iwate.
As he steered with the long pole, the boatman serenaded us with an a-capella folk song! You can hear him singing here (swipe the carousel for the video).
Iwate, Tohoku the only place in Japan to experience a traditional flat-bottomed boat ride between fiery rock cliffs.
And this, my friends, is why you should avoid the over-touristed Japanese cities and go north to this gorgeous region — especially in the fall for leaf peeping.
The oarsman gave us bread to feed the ducks that swam next to our long boat.
It’s giving Jim Jones… my 70s style sunglasses by Arena Eyewear match the mood of my vintage leather and sheep collar coat.
I think it’s obvious why autumn is my fav season for visiting Japan! (I try to avoid the overly hot and humid summers, jam-packed sakura season in spring, and chilly winters.)
Being ferried through the high rock cliffs of Iwate’s Geibikei Gorge by a folk-song-singing oarsman… now that’s a Japan journey to remember.
There’s so much meaningful food and culture to experience throughout Tohoku. One of our favorite moments was taking a cooking lesson with the adorable Grandmother Hitomi at her farmhouse in Hachimantai, Iwate, Japan.
In this new feature, I chatted with Voyapon about why I keep returning to the region north of Tokyo, esp for its culinary culture. “In Hachimantai, Iwate, I took a cooking class with the adorable Grandmother Hitomi. Her charming, rustic home felt straight out of a movie set, and she had a constant smile on her face as she taught me how to grind miso paste, brush it over rice on a stick, and grill this comforting dish over charcoal.”
She taught us how to make regional homestyle dishes like this hearty vegetable soup. Her traditional farm house was beyond cinematic (images by Joey Wong).
Grandma Hitomi Sato is remarkably independent and sprightly. She makes meals out of the fresh ingredients grown in her garden, which are enriched by the fresh mountain water.
We tried these seasonal chestnuts… delicious! (With Janet Cam and Nevin Martell).
Grandmother Hitomi taught us how to make regional kiritanpo, or rice sticks brushed with miso paste and grilled over charcoal. Talk about a warm and comforting snack.
We sat down to a diverse meal that included mountainside mushrooms, pickled vegetables, and her handmade soba noodles.
You can’t help but smile when in the presence of these kindhearted grannies!
My blue-light blocking glasses are by Gunnar Optiks.
The sweetest bye-bye… I hope you’ll get a chance to travel to Hachimantai for a cooking class and lunch with Grandma Hitomi!
Time to chill at the dreamiest Japanese hot springs: Nyuto Onsenkyo Magoroku Onsen Rokuan in Akita, the northern Honshu prefecture known for its snowy peaks,
Located in the misty mountains of Nyuto Onsenkyo, Magoroku Onsen Rokuan was founded in 1902. It’s located in a natural onsen area favored by the samurai.
There were a variety of soaking options, including mixed gender shared outdoor baths. My room had its own outdoor open-air bath on the patio — a dream come true.
Watch my video to see me relaxing in my private open-air bath surrounded by beech forests and rugged snow-topped mountains. (Sound on, as the soundtrack is from Kill Bill and Lady Snowblood!)
One of our favorite dining experiences on the trip was — unexpectedly — at Nyuto Onsenkyo Magoroku Rokuan. I’m still thinking about the set menu that included juicy local beef with vegetables, and fresh fruits…
Musubi-an Restaurant offers local, seasonal flavors (such as chestnut and sashimi), which are testament to the exceptional culinary culture of Tohoku.
Watch my reel from this Akita onsen ryokan. Wouldn’t you like to run away and relax here?
Tōhoku is easy to reach by bullet train, which lets you get away from the insufferable tourists that are currenly overrunning Tokyo, Osaka and other major centers.
We ushered in the Year of the Horse at the sustainable Geofarm Hachimantai.
We petted the retired racehorses and sampled mushrooms ingeniously grown in a greenhouse with their compost. After, the rich soil is used to feed crops, continuing the sustainability cycle.
Another beautiful outdoor experience: stream trekking or cycling at Oirase Gorge in Towada, Aomori. The river valley stretches 14 km from Lake Towada, and is lush with moss, rocks, and waterfalls.
We also stepped into the majestic Towada Shrine, which was founded in 807 is guarded by stone lion-dogs.
As I love experiencing Japanese art and culture firsthand, I was delighted by Tsugaru-han Neputa-mura. The traditional village is filled with the massive, illuminated lantern floats from the yearly Hirosaki Neputa matsuri or festival.
I was blown away by the artistry and scale of the handpainted lanterns, and enjoyed getting to know Hirosaki’s local history and rituals. We got to participate in activites like making a lantern out of upcycled nebuta papers, pounding on taiko drums, and listening to a shamisen stringed instrument performance.
Aomori’s cooler climate also makes it an emerging spot for natural wines, some of which are blended with juicy local cherries, pears, peaches, and apples. I’m still thinking about the Italian-Japanese meal I had at Chef Michiaki Sasamori’s Osteria Enoteca Da Sasino. After training at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, he returned to his hometown – the castle town of Hirosaki – with the aim of developing it into a winemaking region. Sasamori established a vineyard at the foot of Mount Iwaki where he produces phenomenal small-batch Nebbiolos and Malvasias, as well as his own charcuterie.
Akita’s spectacular produce and rice come alive in the beautifully presented vegan kaiseki of Chef Eiko Suwa’s Kuromanta, which focuses on fermented dishes and seasonal, organic plants and herbs from her garden.
How exquisite is the layout of her plant-based dishes?
The attention to detail and quality of produce were at the highest level, even in “simple” dishes like this char-grilled rice on a stick.
Tohoku is also famous for its sake, and has some breweries run by the descendents of the original samurai owners. At Washino-O, which was founded in 1829, we tried various sakes of different strengths and went behind the scenes to learn about the bespoke brewing process (which uses mineral rich water from Mt Iwate).
Impressed by the fine dining throughout Tohoku. At Ristaurante Shikazawa, Iwate chef Yasuyuki Shikazawa combines his hometown’s finest ingredients in artful presentations. A tasting course might include matsutake mushrooms, tender guinea fowl, and sweet Kamaishi scallops from the thriving Sanriku Coast.
I also ate my fill of “wanko soba” at Azumaya Soba Shop, which was founded in 1907. The staff hands you unlimited bowls containing small portions of buckwheat noodles, and chants “Jan jan, don don” as you slurp them down. Try to see how many bowls you can eat — the record is 570. I managed 37, which is above average! (Morioka’s kawaii Wanko Brothers mascot is based on this popular dish.)
All around Tohoku, travelers can take part in interactive experiences involving food, art, culture, and the great outdoors. There’s so much to experience within a few hours train ride from the capital!
For more about why I adore traveling in Tohoku, read my “Living Japan” feature with pics by Joey Wong on Voyapon.
I also wanted to share my latest travel writing — for the spring print issue of Tricycle: The Buddhist Review! I wrote about must-visit Buddhist attractions in Tokyo, including a cyber cemetery, Gotokuji lucky cats temple (more photos and info here), and Vowz bar run by monks. Ps: you can read my Tricycle Buddhist travel article without the paywall here.
For more adventures from Tohoku and other parts of Japan, find me @lacarmina on Instagram.
And if you dig my style, you can check out my Goth fashion for sale on Poshmark (Canada) and Depop (USA / international). Please take a browse, and reach out –– I’d be delighted to send you a package of dark delights!
SHARE & COMMENT
Hoshinoya Okinawa hotel review & Eater food writing! Tokyo Four Seasons Virtu bar, Andaz cocktails, omakase sushi.
As promised, I’ll be updating this blog more frequently… Read on for a recap of my Okinawa, Japan travels, as well as cocktails, sush and roboto adventures with friends in Tokyo!
I’m increangly fed up with social media for a multitude of reasons (and don’t get me started on AI content)… It was 100% the right decision to quit Twitter / X and TikTok a while back.
Although I still post on Meta apps for work reasons, I’m relieved I still have my original self-owned and controlled space — this blog — which isn’t at the whim of intrusive ads and fickle algorithms (and then, there are the billionaire owners).
I’m doing my best to stick to “analog” formats as best I can, such as reading physical books to stay off screens. I also have been focusing more on old-school travel and food journalism. Most recently, Eater asked me to contribute to Where To Eat in 2026, this time about Okinawa — you can read it here! (All these Okinawa photos by James Nguyen; the rest of the images in this blog are by friends and yours truly).
Last fall, I ate my way around Japan’s southernmost prefecture, which is one of the world’s five Blue Zones (where residents enjoy long, active lives). At Hoshinoya Okinawa beachfront hotel, I experienced traditional Ryukyu royal cuisine that includes seafood hotpot with cloudlike yushi tofu, awamori fermented rice liquor, and my beloved local tart citrus: shikuwasa.
Hoshinoya Okinawa is a luxury hotel that conveys the warm, tropical culture of the islands. The guest experiences include a live performance of sanshin guitar.
Always the most haunting presence, no matter where I go…
Watch my Okinawa, Japan reel to see me exploring Hoshinoya’s hotel and resort. PS: The ageless singer Gackt is Ryukyan and from Okinawa, hence the song “Mizerable” that I used!
I also did an article for Metropolis Magazine about my wellness stay and the Okinawan foods I ate. You can read it here.
Karate also comes from Okinawa — got to take a lesson from a local master while it poured outside.
Is Okinawa, Japan a destination you’d like to see?
I also have a new reel up about a night of cocktails and sush at Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills! Watch it here on @lacarmina IG.
Japanese cocktails with a view at the luxury Andaz Tokyo hotel… life doesn’t get better than this!
Dr John Skutlin and I went up to the 52nd floor of the Andaz Tokyo for craft cocktails at The Rooftop Bar (featuring matcha, amazake & yuzu flavors).
Devil horns and Omega watches at The Rooftop Tokyo bar with soaring views of Tokyo Tower.
Then, we indulged in the chef’s selection of the day at The Sushi: seemingly endless Edomae nigiri and luxurious small dishes, paired with sake and real wasabi.
I’m a huge tofu fan, especially when it’s prepared so delicately.
My new leather and silver shoulder bag by SMFK, a Y2K inspired Asia street fashion label.
Omakase, or the chef’s selection of the day, at the small eight-seat counter… for “sush” lovers like me, this is paradise.
Remember these spots… you’ll love the “sush” and drinks at 5-star hotel The Andaz Tokyo!
Another hotel bar of dreams… I could spend all four seasons watching the sunset from Virtu bar at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi!
Do you see Mount Fuji in the distance, illuminated by red?
Dr John Skutlin and I can’t stop raving about the French-Japanese craft cocktails at Virtù. The space is warm, with a high ceiling and glowing bar stocked with enticing, rare liquors.
Virtu is consistantly near the top of the World’s 50 Best Bars list, and deservedly so.
Bartender Graham Kimura took such good care of us. We were blown away by the signature warm fig, cognac and spices, and Graham’s omakase creations like yuzu and absinthe (custom-mixed for my palate!)
Art Deco decor, luxurious snacks (lobster okonomiyaki and Wagyu tacos, hello) and skyscraper views from the 39th floor… Every aspect of the experience was exquisite.
No wonder Virtu at The Four Seasons Otemachi is one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars.
I reviewed Virtu and this Four Seasons hotel, among other Tokyo luxury properties, for Fodor’s Travel! Read my Japan hotel reviews.
John, Yukiro and I swung by the Gentle Monster glasses store in Omotesando, Tokyo for some goofy photos. These scary giant robot faces move — you can see them in action in this IG post!
Ai-yai-yai… I am increasingly “miffed” by the use of AI in creative work.
I get using GPT for info processing and meaningless tasks, but it gives me the ick when I see bot-generated writing and visuals in artistic spaces. Don’t get me started on people who use Instagram captions obviously written by AI…
Rest assured the only robotos I’ll associate with are freaky Japanese ones! We engaged in a Face… Off…. at the Gentle Monster store in Omotesando, Tokyo. (And we didn’t need them to tweak our photos or generate these words).
What are your thoughts on AI, and how do you use it in your life? Also, are my low rise pants low enough?
With these glasses, we’re ready for the aliens to take us away from this doomed Collapse planet.
So realistic, the skin texture and hairs of the moving robotic heads in the Gentle Monster shop.
More realness: we then went to the nearby Sushi Ginza Onodera to eat our fill of raw fish, including way too many plates of free ginger!
2026’a messiness and AI-pocalyptic acceleration have made everyone nostalgic for 2016. I shared some mems from my Tokyo 2016 trip, when I had turquoise hair! Pastel Goth was all the rage, and sites like Fushimi Inari were busy but not overcrowded with tourists like they are now. Check out my 2016 flashback post here.
I also shared a recap of my 2016 year in travels — I can’t believe how much I used to jet around! New Zealand, Myanmar, Scandinavia, and more in a single year… Looking back, perhaps 2016 was the last hurrah before The Collapse collapsed. (Ngl, it’s a bit depressing to recall how the economy was so much better then…)
In these times, all we can do is “Yoko Ono Yolo” and make memories with our true besties!
Add me Instagram (@lacarmina) to see more of our Japan escapades from Halloween.
Wrapping up with a few new press features. Bold Journey interviewed me about my work, life lessons and insights. I also dished about a cockroach-y hotel horror experience on Huff Post and Yahoo!
And don’t forget that I’m still decluttering pretty much everything I own! If you’re in Canada, you can shop my closet @LaCarmina on Poshmark. If you prefer USD, you can find my @LaCarmina store on Depop. Reach out if I can send you anything fun!
LA CARMINA
