Goth Malta travel & food guide! Hypogeum & Hagar Qim ancient megalithic temples, Valletta Barrakka art & gardens.
Surprise: I was in Malta last year! I made a quick trip to the Mediterranean island nation during my Europe travels in 2024 — and it turned out to be one of my favorite new destinations.
Malta is situated south of Sicily / Italy and north of Africa, and has been inhabited since the Stone Age. As a result, the country has everything that appeals to me as a Goth / culture-focused traveller: mysterious ancient temples, opulent historic architecture, and dramatic waterfronts. (Watch my Malta reel for footage of my travels here.)
Case in point: this view of the Old City of Mdina, a walled city that seems frozen in time from its Medieval heyday. Perhaps you recognize the buildings from HBO’s Game of Thrones: quite a few sites stood on for King’s Landing, such as Mdina Gate.
Read on for my Maltese Goth alternative travel and food guide, which encapsulates why the tourism board slogan is accurate… “Malta is More!”
Malta is a refreshingly affordable destination in southern Europe. From Dublin, London and other UK / Western European cities, you can easily get roundtrip flights to Malta International Airport for $100 or so. I rented a lovely private Airbnb in Sliema for about $40 a day, walked almost everywhere, and had most meals for under $5 (keep reading for street snacks)… talk about bang for your buck.
I loved walking around and seeing the decadent architecture, particularly from the Maltese Baroque era (17-18th century, when the islands were ruled by the Order of St John). Quite a few had Gothic grotesques, or fierce carved figures on building facades.
You’ll run into ruins from Malta’s Roman and Byzantine eras as you stroll around. For one of the best photography viewpoints, head to Tigné Point near Sliema’s The Point shopping mall (above). The stores are worth checking out as well, particularly Kiko Milano makeup and Oysho activewear.
The Mediterranean waterfront made me feel like I had time-traveled back into ancient times… I half expected a Game of Thornes dragon to fly out over the stone fortress walls!
Maltese culture has similarities to that of southern Italy and Morocco / north Africa, but it’s unique in its own right. You’ll notice that the Maltese language has its own distinct script (it’s the only Semitic language written in the Latin alphabet).
So much art and drama everywhere, from the carved animal door knockers to the crashing waves over the rocks. I appreciated that this wasn’t a tourist-packed place, unlike other parts of southern Europe.
Take the ferry or an inexpensive Uber to Valletta, Malta’s capital. I walked for hours through the narrow, stepped streets, which hold cafes, outdoor restaurants and shops. Valletta is filled with magnificent 16th-century buildings, which were made by the Knights Hospitaller.
And leave it to me to find some Goth and naughty elements… I was tickled to see this statue on the left, which shows St Michael grappling with the Devil!
The saint has a chain wrapped around Satan’s neck, and is stepping on him with his muscled legs. I think the naked Devil seems to be enjoying the S&M play… Do we think his face shows pleasure or pain?
I was also drawn to the spooky face on top of the Neoclassical temple known as Monument to Sir Alexander Ball.
It’s located in the Lower Barrakka gardens, a picture-perfect garden with fountains, palm trees, and structures inspired by ancient Rome.
I could imagine the Knights of Malta scheming as they strolled through the Upper and Lower Barrakka gardens (both are free to visit, and located close to each other). Be sure to take in the panoramic view of the Grand Harbour and cannons.
Now, let’s talk about Maltese food — because it was “everything!” I was tickled to try the country’s unique dishes like bigilla, a slightly spicy broad bean dip with olive oil and chili flakes. The lion door knocker seemed to enjoy it as much as I did.
Also a must for bev-heads: try a bottle of Kinnie, Malta’s bittersweet orange soda. The soft drink is made with bitter oranges, wormwood, and herbs, and isn’t overly sweet.
For 1-2 Euro, you can eat your fill of pastizzi, Malta’s famous savoury pastry filled with ricotta, curried peas, chicken, and other ingredients. You can find small pastizzi stands in every major area. I didn’t get to visit the island of Gozo this time, but their pizza is also legendary.
Of course, my favorite Maltese pastries were the ones filled with spinach and anchovies or sardines! I also adored the tuna ftira from Buchman’s Snack Bar (a ring-shaped Maltese bread sandwiched with pink tuna and vegetables).
One of my main motivations to visit Malta was to explore the archeological ruins, particularly the megalithic temples that date to the prehistoric era. You’ve got to get tickets well in advance to the breathtaking Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, a 3000 BCE necropolis and sanctuary. (You can only enter with a guided tour, which sells out months in advance. Photos aren’t allowed, so here’s a snap from Wikipedia.)
Malta’s underground Hypogeum contained the remains of about 7000 people, and is a mesmerizing remnant of the architecture and spiritual culture of the ancients. The circular carved stone chamber and Oracle Room gave me goosebumps. (The Hypogeum also reminded me of Fellini’s Satyricon, the 1969 film that is a personal fav.)
I also wandered the megalithic temples at Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra Archaeological Park. These religious sites date back to 3600-3200 BCE, and were built on a dramatic promontory overlooking the windy sea.
The size and arrangement of the stone slabs are impressive to behold. Archaeologists are still untangling the meanings behind Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, which may reference fertility rituals and the solstices / equinoxes.
If you’re intrigued, please take a moment to watch my video about exploring Malta’s ancient ruins.
I’m still thinking about the incredible food I ate in Malta… I tried Maltese wine for the first time (Meridiana’s crisp Isis Chardonnay).
I wanted to order everything on the menu at Nenu the Artisan Baker, which specializes in traditional, homey Maltese cooking. Highlights included snails with fresh-baked bread, rabbit fried in garlic, blistered octopus, glazed pork shank…
… and date fritters with Maltese ice cream. Dining in Malta is affordable compared to other Western European countries, so eat your fill while you’re here.
Malta is a perfect “lie flat” destination — a warm place to chill while on a budget. The landmarks, such as Vittoriosa Waterfront, also don’t feel touristy.
I could have spent more days wandering around and taking in the quirky art — like a crumbling sphinx statue, and cute bear garbage can. (He looks eager for you to put your junk in his mouth…)
I leave you with the angel dominating Lucifer (who seems to be very much enjoying getting his chained collar yanked!)
Don’t forget to watch my video about what I saw in Malta on @LaCarmina Instagram.
Did you know Malta has such a rich and diverse culture, particularly in terms of art, archaeology and food?
PS – you can see more of my travels in various European countries (like the Nosferatu vibes above at Whitby Abbey) in my blog’s Destination Guides, and by adding @LaCarmina Instagram.