Halifax, Nova Scotia: Best museums, art & history attractions, & local restaurants! Nova Scotian food, culture, travel tips.
“Hali-Facts” — Halifax, Nova Scotia is the most wonderful summer destination! Maritime Canadians are oh so friendly, and the walkable waterfront, markets and historic sites warmed my heart… Being here made me feel as if I were back in the glorious 1990s.
In my previous blog post, I took you along on my road trip to Nova Scotian historic attractions and museums.
This time, I’ll highlight the intriguing history, art and culture sites found in the capital — such as Halifax Public Gardens above. I’ll also give my recommendations for the best restaurants in the province, from creative tasting menus to down-home seafood. (All photos by Joey Wong).
On the Halifax waterfront: can you tell I’m loving it here! Four km of wooden boardwalk overlooking the ocean, peppered with Canadian flags, restaurant patios and artisan markets… Nova Scotia’s capital city is a vibe.
So glad I’m focusing on Canadian travel and finally made a summer trip to explore Nova Scotia museums, historic sites and culture.
To see footage of me exploring Halifax’s top museums and historic landmarks, watch my IG video here!
I had never been to the Canadian Maritimes, and was delighted to kick back on a purple Adirondack chair to people-watch at the working port.
One of Canada’s oldest cities (est 1749), Halifax has many cultural attractions within walking distance of the gorgeous harbour.
My “fueled by microplastics and spite” bag by Mourning Breath Shoppe got so many compliments and is 100% me (as well as 100% cotton). Doing my best to wear natural materials, minimize plastics and get the word out on the horrors of nano and microplastics these days!
You can take a boat tour out on these sparkling waves for views of lighthouses and Georges Island National Historic Site. This green mound of an isle within Halifax Harbour was an 18th century military fortification.
Under the sea… I dove into Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, which covers everything from ocean explorers to the province’s role in the Titanic ship rescue operations.
This “kawaii” cute playground outside the museum sets the tone for the informative yet fun exhibits inside, which focus on oceanic events that shaped the province’s history.
With over 30,000 artifacts, this is Canada’s largest and oldest maritime museum.
Looks like this pirate ship is about to be attacked by Cthulhu! Arrr, I’d invite the Lovecraftian Old God to join my pirate crew.
Halifax is connected to the Titanic shipwreck because it was the primary base of recovery, and home to the world’s largest number of Titanic graves (many victims are buried at Fairview Lawn Cemetery).
Posing on Queen’s Landing, the steps at Queen’s Marque (a mixed-use public space by the water).
Watch my short video here to see me playfully exploring Halifax’s museums and seawall.
An outfit change to shoot in Halifax Public Gardens with photographer Joey Wong. I’m inadvertently channeling Mira from Kpop Demon Hunters / Huntrix. (Fit check for my napalm era…)
Founded in 1838, these Halifax gardens are a study in Victorian elegance: a classic bandstand, flower gardens and a fairytale bridge over a brook.
I’m wearing a red silk Chinese halter qipao or cheungsam by Beth and Brian Qipao. 100% mulberry silk over synthetics, always! My leather silver skull bag is Alexander McQueen.
Halifax was founded on June 21, 1749 by the British, hence the influence of Victorian-era architecture like these wrought iron entrance gates.
The gardens are a popular spot for wedding, graduation and prom photos for obvious reasons!
Onward to Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, Atlantic Canada’s largest art museum — set in this fetching Italianate downtown building.
The Art Gallery mainly features Nova Scotian works, such as by folk artist Maud Lewis (you might be familiar with her bright, colorful and charming paintings of animals such as cats).
Another must: Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, which celebrates the country’s diversity and Halifax’s history as the port of entry for a million people around WWII.
I was a fan of The Old Burying Ground, est 1749. These tombstones, some of which have old-time skull carvings, are giving Goth.
Now we’re going up, up, up to Halifax Citadel, the hilltop fort founded by the British in 1749.
Originally named Fort George after King George III, this impressive national historic site overlooks the harbour and is shaped like a star. Climb up and walk around the top of the walls to see cannons.
Standing on guard for thee — uniformed and marching Canadian soldiers.
Learn about the military history of Halifax and see collections from the past at the Army Museum.
It felt like stepping back in time as you make your way around Halifax Citadel’s fortifications.
Now, let’s focus on food! I was excited to try Nova Scotian cuisine as I’d heard so much about the fresh seafood and Acadian dishes.
The food scene turned out to be spectacular — so let me give you a rundown of my favorite places to eat in Halifax and other locations around the province. (Watch my Instagram @lacarmina reel for an overview of everywhere we dined in NS.)
Halifax has a lovely fine dining scene, especially downtown and by the water. You can’t go wrong with an Aperol spritz at the counter of Italian restaurant Pazzo Ristorante & Enoteca.
The two-floor restaurant is set in a gilded heritage building — talk about putting on the ritz.
Indulge in the creamy burrata, and get the pesto made right at the table (it doesn’t get fresher than this). Pazzo also has the most delectable tiramisu in Halifax, as you can tell from the photo, so save room for it!
For food, wine, fire — Tribute Restaurant is perhaps the most creative fine dining spot in the city. Or rather, “fun dining” — the experience is laid-back and full of Maritime Canadian hospitality.
Halifax chef Colin Bebbington plays with Nova Scotia seasonal ingredients such as halibut, interacting with guests from the open kitchen.
The wine pairings are wonderful with his beautifully plated dishes that pull from a variety of influences, such as a family lasagna recipe from the time he spent cooking in Bologna, Italy.
The live fire and charcoal add impact to the ever-changing dishes.
Cheers to Tribute for a chef’s tasting menu to remember!
I was keen to sink my teeth into Nova Scotia’s famous, affordable seafood — and found several favorites. Evan’s Seafood (at Alderney Landing across the bridge from Halifax in Dartmouth) doles out local-caught haddock, crab, scallops, lobster and more at excellent prices.
When Joey and I drove to Peggy’s Cove, we made sure to factor in a stop at Shaw’s Landing…
I mean, these pan-fried Digby scallops speak for themselves!
Watch my IG reel of all the food I ate in Nova Scotia for footage from Shaw’s Landing and other eateries.
The lobster roll, lobster chowder, fish and chips and more were sensational.
It’s well worth the trip to West Dover / Peggy’s Cove for authentic Maritime food from fishing communities.
One of my favorite moments from the trip was connecting with Chef Pamela Leonforde, proprietor of Café Caye Mangé in Yarmouth.
As photographer Joey Wong wrote: “La Carmina and I are always on the lookout for interesting food, and while we were in Yarmouth, Carmina discovered her cafe. She was so impressed by the quality, uniqueness, and Pam’s warmth that she brought me the next day to try more dishes and learn about Pamela’s journey and what inspired her to open a Caribbean plant-based spot in tiny Yarmouth.”
“It was so inspiring to hear how passionate Chef Pamela is about bringing healthy food to the community. During our chat, she told us her cafe is the only one of its kind outside of Halifax, and she often welcomes visitors from all over especially Americans arriving by ferry. Beyond running the cafe, Pamela also gives public talks to promote healthy cooking and nutrition, and she collaborates with the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre. It was a wonderful encounter with another ‘come-from-away’ who has made Nova Scotia her home.”
In an area of Nova Scotia that mainly serves hearty and fried food, I was delighted to dine on healthy, homemade meals (all vegan and made with natural ingredients, with many gluten-free options) at the peaceful Café Caye Mangé. Please come visit Chef Pamela and say hi for me — her rotating desserts and Caribbean black bean burger are a must-try!
We also adored The Emerald Light Kitchen + Bar in Shelburne, a chill waterfront town still untouched by mass tourism. We sat in the back patio of this picturesque green house to dine on flavorful local food made with care. Start with cocktails made from ingredients like strawberries and craft liquor by local Boatskeg Distilling Co.
We had a hard time choosing what to order as everything on the menu sounded so good! The garlic shrimp po’boy, Annapolis Blomidon brie salad, and seared scallops and shrimp (with sweet and spicy chorizo jam, cherry tomato, mixed greens, pickled red onion) were full of flavor and made from healthy, quality ingredients — as you can tell from the colors of the spread.
Still thinking about The Emerald Light’s signature tomato soup and grilled cheese… This restaurant in Shelburne is a total gem.
Nova Scotia has a rich Acadian history, so we were keen to try these distinct French settler dishes at La Cuisine Robicheau in Saulnierville. Tip: you can order a taste of rappie pie, a gelatinous potato dish with clam or chicken, for just a few bucks.
Hot creamed lobster, pan fried haddock with lemon, and Nova Scotian white wines served in a homey space — what a heart-warming Acadian meal.
Finally, make your way to Wolfville wine country for stand-out cuisine at Juniper Food + Wine. Chef Geoff Hopgood sources ingredients from small Nova Scotian producers and pairs his beautiful, seasonal dishes with Canadian natural wines. (Had to get my scallops fix, gently seasoned and served with edible leaves and flowers.)
Juniper’s menu changes with the seasons and includes mouth-watering creations like baked potato beignets topped with bacon, sour cream, chives and smoked cheddar.
For more tips, watch my IG reel about all the food we tasted (and where we stayed) in Nova Scotia. You can also see my video about Halifax historic sites here.
Did you know the province has such a rich culture and culinary scene? Cheers to Visit Nova Scotia and HMI Creator Coast for making these travels possible.
PS – If you’re planning to visit Nova Scotia, here’s some inspiration for an itinerary. Read my previous blog post about my road trip to Annapolis, Yarmouth, Wolfville, Shelburne, Birchtown and other historic places in the province.
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Travel guide: Nova Scotia historic sites & museums! Road trip to Lunenburg, Shelburne, Yarmouth, Annapolis, Grand Pré.
It’s official: I love Nova Scotia! I spent July road-tripping through the Canadian Maritime province to see the top historic sites and museums — and out of all my travels, this one was an easy 5 out of 5 stars.
Photographer Joey Wong and I started in Halifax and looped south to Lunenburg, Shelburne, Yarmouth, Annapolis Royal, Grand Pré and Wolfville — with lots of stops for seafood and scenic views along the way.
There were so many standout moments from our NS trip, like this sunset at Shelburne, but we’ll never forget the genuinely friendly and down-home people we met along the way. (It felt like going back in time to the happy 1990s, the best era that ever was!)
Read on for our travel guide and itinerary to Nova Scotia‘s best heritage attractions (including quirky museums and UNESCO sites), and see my reel for video footage of each of these places.
From Halifax, we drove about an hour southwest to Old Town Lunenburg. Founded in 1753, this British settlement is filled with beautifully preserved historic architecture.
I’m giving the devil horns in front of St. John’s Anglican Church, a large black and white Gothic landmark in the center of town.
Fun fact: one Halloween night, not too long ago, the original church mysteriously burned down! To this day, locals have no idea who set the Goth church on fire on October 31st… but there are theories…
We took a guided walking tour through Lunenburg, which was a great introduction to the South Shore. The charming town was one of the first Protestant British settlements in Canada.
In 1995, Lunenburg became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, noted for its fine examples of 1800s wooden architecture. Another fun fact: many houses were built with identical-looking front and back doors to confuse the Devil, who only entered through the back (which is not surprising!)
Here’s the “wedding cake house,” a pink home built in 1888 that is apparently haunted (it does look straight out of a horror film.)
The tour ended at the Lunenburg Waterfront Marina, which was once a buzzing center of the Atlantic Canada fishing industry.
The original Bluenose racing and fishing schooner was also built at Lunenburg in 1921 (the ship was a Canadian icon until it was wrecked in 1946).
The Bluenose’s legacy is remembered through a Bluenose II replica ship, and is engraved on the back of the Canadian dime.
Loved strolling the waterfront marina and soaking in the seafaring history.
This classic fisherman scene made me think of the song: “I’s the b’ye that builds the boat / And I’s the b’ye that sails her / I’s the b’ye that catches the fish / And brings ’em home to Lizer!”
The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic lets you learn more about the town’s fishing heyday.
Another classic Victorian building: the late 19th century three story wooden Lunenburg Academy.
This Goth loves a haunted graveyard… You can take a ghost walking tour of Lunenburg at night as well to hear spooky tales.
Pit stop at 19th century fishing village Peggy’s Cove. Photographer Joey Wong captured these photos from the deck by Shaw’s Landing restaurant, which is one of the province’s top seafood joints.
With fishing shacks and marine landscapes like this, it’s no surprise that Nova Scotia rocks when it comes to fish (like haddock), lobster, Digby scallops, and other seafood.
My Y2K outfit matches the chill, welcoming vibe of Nova Scotia that reminded us of the late 90s! (If only we could time-travel back then.)
At Shaw’s Landing, we devoured affordable lobster rolls, fish and chips, chowder, scallops and other marine cuisine. Believe me, Nova Scotian seafood lives up to its rep.
We found it relaxing to drive around the province (the roads are easy), and it let us take in the picturesque fishing villages, lighthouses and Atlantic coast landscapes along the way.
We drove an hour and a half southwest and were in Shelburne — a picture-perfect port town that immediately stole my heart.
The 18th century Loyalist town is a photographer’s dream, and is still untouched by mass tourism — so you’ll get a chill, commercial-free experience. Everything is centered around the waterfront and easily accessible.
Stay at Amanda’s The Cooper’s Inn, a charming historic B&B with personalized hospitality. We loved chatting with her and getting to know her story (she moved here to escape the big city chaos, and adores the slower pace and peace of Shelburne).
Can’t get over how kind and welcoming Nova Scotians are. And the food is outstanding everywhere — here’s the French toast that Amanda makes fresh for her guests.
Cooper’s Inn is a boutique bed and breakfast with windows overlooking the seaside, and all the amenities you can think of for a luxurious, cozy stay.
A tribute to the original owner, George Gracie. If there are ghosts in this inn, they’re friendly ones for sure!
The main area, Dock Street, borders Shelburne Harbour. Here, you’ll find historic buildings and attractions like The Dory Shop Museum. Set in a building dating from 1865, it celebrates the classic wooden boats built here by hand.
The Ross-Thomson House & Store Museum lets you get immersed in the 18th century life of two Scottish families that settled here.
Then, learn about local history at the Shelburne County Museum, starting from the arrival of the Loyalists in the 1780s.
In the next post, I’ll do a full run-though of the restaurants we recommend throughout Nova Scotia — as there were so many highlights.
The fabulous pink sunsets at Shelburne’s 18th century waterfront are unforgettable.
The Cooper’s Inn glows at night. Shelburne is a photographer’s delight. (All images by Joey Wong)
Check out the Discover Shelburne County site for more info on planning a trip here — a must if you’re coming to the province.
We did a detour to the nearby Sandy Point Lighthouse, a highly Instagrammable historic site. Nova Scotia has many adorable red and white lighthouses that add to the classic Maritimes feel. (We also stopped by the tall Cape Forchu, but foggy weather conditions didn’t make for good photos.)
Nova Scotia’s specialty museums are well worth the visit for an intriguing look at the past. At Barrington Woolen Mill, I saw how river-powered turbines turned fleece to cloth in the late 19th century.
Watch my reel about Nova Scotian museums for footage from the mill and the other historic places covered in this blog. It was an important local business that used ingenious water-powered machinery to spin cloth.
Visitors can learn how to use a spinning wheel straight out of Sleeping Beauty, as well as other old-timey activities like soap-making.
In The Collapse era, it’s more important than ever to recall the history of slavery and never-ending fight for freedom.
At the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre & Society in Birchtown, Nova Scotia, I learned about the largest free Black settlement in North America (founded 1783).
An arsonist destroyed a large number of its archives in 2006, but the Black Loyalist museum meticulously maintains its history through displays of period clothing, broken shackles, and documents relating to the immigration of African Americans to Nova Scotia.
The Birchtown Schoolhouse is a one-room school from the 1800s that was run by the community.
The museum is well-designed, and the glass floor holds an Archaeological Pit with artifacts and the engraved names of former slaves.
The interactive exhibitions recall how Black Loyalists came together in Birchtown to overcome innumerable challenges, and the importance of continuing this work today.
Museums are vital if we want to remember our past and not repeat mistakes — and Nova Scotia is doing its part through vivid cultural attractions like these.
We continued our loop around the province to Yarmouth, an hour away (Nova Scotia is ideal for road trips with easy driving conditions and short distances between spots). I’m fueled by microplastics in front of Yarmouth County Museum & Archives, filled with 20,000 fascinating artifacts from the town.
My black square belt is by The Plain Circle Vintage — upcycled leather all the way. No plastics here, and I’m all about the Y2K style of the belt that Jennyfer sourced (she has lots of curated Goth-friendly vintage on her site).
Yarmouth County Museum is a treasure trove for oddities like Cape Forchu’s former lighthouse lens, which floated in mercury (the microplastics of that era!)
Potentially haunted dolls, questionable medical devices and other funky historic remnants kept us amused as we went from room to room.
Yarmouth’s little niche museums are all within walking distance of each other. The Firefighters’ Museum of Nova Scotia fascinated me with its firefighting archives…
… especially the steampunk-y fire engines from the 1800s to 1930s. Watch out if you see me steering this big truck!
Wild to see the evolution of fire engines, from these wood and metal hand trucks to steam-powered colossuses.
Firefighters from around the world added their patches to the display (I was tickled to see an “Emo department” one!)
Watch my IG reel here to see me goofing around this museum and others.
W. Laurence Sweeney Fisheries Museum took us back to Yarmouth’s fishing heyday through reproduced waterfront buildings and trawlers, yarrrr.
The museum houses artifacts from companies owned by Sweeney as well as scaled-down boats and buildings from the early 1900s.
We kept driving northeast to Grand-Pré National Historic Site, which remembers the Acadian settlement and 18th century deportation. This powerful statue is of Evangeline, an Acadian icon of resilience during the Great Upheaval (when the British sent French-speaking Acadian settlers into exile).
The exhibits tell the tale of Evangeline, the protagonist of a poem written by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in 1847.
As she and her lover were separated by the deportation, Evangeline has become an a symbol of strength and perseverance.
We learned more about Acadian culture at Rendez-vous de la Baie, an educational center in Baie Sainte-Marie. Fun fact: instead of saying “ouch,” Acadians would yell “AYOYE” (pronounced ah-yoy)!
Before returning to Halifax, you’ve got to swing by Fort Anne National Historic Site in Annapolis Royal. The scenery reminded us a bit of our time on Easter Island.
Fort Anne was built by Scottish settlers in 1629, making it the oldest fort still standing in Canada.
I’ll be showing you Halifax’s museums and historic destinations in an upcoming blog post, so stay tuned for that. Until then, you can see my reel about Halifax history sites.
This triangle is the oldest military building in Canada, a powder magazine from 1708 designed to keep gunpowder dry.
Fort Anne (formerly Charles Fort) was built in Annapolis Royal as this was the center of the early British and French settlements.
Throwback to the days when warfare involved canons, thigh high boots and tricorn hats.
The Annapolis and Allain rivers come together at this spectacular site. Photographer Joey Wong and I can’t thank Visit Nova Scotia and HMI Creator Coast enough for making this journey possible!
In a time when many destinations are pricy and over-touristy (and I’m avoiding going to the US), it was a relief to travel in Nova Scotia and relax in small, friendly Maritime towns. Wouldn’t you like to hang here with me?
I think you can tell that we had the best time road-tripping around this ocean playground! Check out Nova Scotia’s website for everything you need to plan a trip to the province.
For video footage of all these Nova Scotian sites, enjoy my reel here — and see more snaps on IG @lacarmina. Next up, I’ll feature Halifax’s museums and historic destinations, as well as all the outstanding food I enjoyed on this trip!
LA CARMINA
