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GOTHIC DARK FASHION EXHIBIT OPENING: FIT FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY.

99% of the time, I’m the Goth-est person in the room. So it was a shock to the system when I arrived at the “Gothic: Dark Glamour” fashion exhibit opening at FIT (New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology) – and everyone looked like a Dracula movie extra.

I knew I’d be surrounded by Vampiras in floor-sweeping skirts. Rather than play “Gother Than Thou,” I did a wardrobe remix: a black chain skirt (from my h.NAOTO DIY) worn as a top over my silver disco dress (from a NYC sample sale), and spider-print 3/4 length leggings. My lace collar has a danging crucifix and is attached to my wrist cuff by a silver chain.

Gothic Fashion museum exhibit at FIT, NYC. Lip Service Goth clothing display, club kid guests in platform boots, spiked hair. Norma Desmond sunset boulevard drag dressing gown costume.

In the main hall, the guests sipped bloody cocktails and fought over the meager hors d’oeuvres. I rolled my eyes at a man dressed in a Norma Desmond fur dressing-gown who slinked around the Lip Service display, pink cosmo in hand. While I was thrilled by the personal style of the “lifestyle Goths” (such as this trio), it was disconcerting to see NYC’s ubiquitous nightlife socialites dressed in over-the-top Goth for the sake of the cameras. A stake through the heart of undead fashion…

Gothic Fashion dark glamour exhibition opening party at FIT. Interior of exhibit, photos of coffin, Goth gowns, Dracula cape, top hats.

“Hold on to the rail! Don’t trip!” called out the guard as the guests shuffled down two flights of stairs. The intro gallery was my favorite part of the exhibit; four vignettes traced the style to 18th century Gothic literature and the Victorian cult of mourning. A “Cabinet of Curiosities” displayed the death mask of a poet next to momento mori jewelry.

Goth fashion museum exhibition at Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. September 4 opening party. Designer fashion in cages.

A crucifix-studded iron cage formed the focal point of the main room. Over 75 mannequins stood in dramatic mise-en-scenes, suggesting iconic Goth settings (castles, laboratories, labyrinths) and sub-styles (cyber, steampunk, Lolita).

Yoshiki Hishinuma, Kambriel, Alexander McQueen evening dresses on display at FIT Gothic Fashion exhibit. Opening of NY Fashion Week 2008.

My friend Kyshah Hell, who interviewed me for the Morbid Outlook article on gosurori, had several of her club outfits on display. She was in the company of McQueen, Lagerfeld, Galliano, Givenchy, Lacroix…

Gothic Lolita, Goth artist Voltaire, h.NAOTO dress display with Hangry and Angry doll at FIT Gothic Fashion dark glamour exhibit opening, New York City, Sept 4 2008. Young Goth kid, girl.

…and h.NAOTO, who contributed a gorgeous Lolita corset and skirt, accessorized with an Angry the cat plush toy (bottom right). The living dead included a young Lolita and artist/designer Voltaire (top right), who took off his jacket to reveal a shirt stained with blood!

I hope I’ll have the time to re-visit the Gothic fashion exhibit and soak it all in – an impossible task on opening night. Fortunately, it runs through February 21, 2009. Need another excuse to high-tail it to NYC? FIT is also offering a range of public programs, including a Tim Burton film series, an Oct. 30 “Goth Talk” panel, and readings from Bram Stoker and Edgar Allan Poe.

Gothic: Dark Glamour exhibit
The Museum at FIT
Runs: Sept 5, 2008 to Feb 21, 2009
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday and legal holidays.

SHARE & COMMENT

59 Comments

  1. Mmy
    Posted September 6, 2008 at 8:57 pm | Permalink

    Oh! Of all the recent interesting events, THIS is the one I truly regret missing. I love museums perhaps even more than clubs. An entire gothic fashion exhibit is almost too much to bear; I can only hope they publish a nice photobook to go with it. Seeing everyone's snapshots is a good vicarious substitution, though!

    *wrist to forehead, dramatic sigh* ;)

  2. Mmy
    Posted September 6, 2008 at 8:58 pm | Permalink

    And isn't that little girl beyond cute? <3

  3. Mmy
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 3:57 am | Permalink

    Oh! Of all the recent interesting events, THIS is the one I truly regret missing. I love museums perhaps even more than clubs. An entire gothic fashion exhibit is almost too much to bear; I can only hope they publish a nice photobook to go with it. Seeing everyone’s snapshots is a good vicarious substitution, though!

    *wrist to forehead, dramatic sigh* ;)

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 7:02 am | Permalink

      There is a gorgeous photobook! My friend contributed several photos to it.

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 7:02 am | Permalink

      There is a gorgeous photobook! My friend contributed several photos to it.

  4. Mmy
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 3:57 am | Permalink

    Oh! Of all the recent interesting events, THIS is the one I truly regret missing. I love museums perhaps even more than clubs. An entire gothic fashion exhibit is almost too much to bear; I can only hope they publish a nice photobook to go with it. Seeing everyone’s snapshots is a good vicarious substitution, though!

    *wrist to forehead, dramatic sigh* ;)

  5. Mmy
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 3:58 am | Permalink

    And isn’t that little girl beyond cute? <3

  6. Mmy
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 3:58 am | Permalink

    And isn’t that little girl beyond cute? <3

  7. lacarmina
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 12:02 am | Permalink

    There is a gorgeous photobook! My friend contributed several photos to it.

  8. Sakura
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 12:13 am | Permalink

    I liked your designs (sorry my english is bad, but i try)

    congratulations, i wish you good luck

  9. Sakura
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 7:13 am | Permalink

    I liked your designs (sorry my english is bad, but i try)

    congratulations, i wish you good luck

  10. Sakura
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 7:13 am | Permalink

    I liked your designs (sorry my english is bad, but i try)

    congratulations, i wish you good luck

  11. Valerie
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 9:47 am | Permalink

    I love you hair and your fashions by the way ^_^

  12. Louise
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 9:48 am | Permalink

    I think i liked goth more when we were not so fasionable..

  13. Queen D
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 9:48 am | Permalink

    That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
    I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
    Its an awesome school

    <333

  14. Queen D
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 9:48 am | Permalink

    That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
    I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
    Its an awesome school

    <333

  15. Samina
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 9:48 am | Permalink

    I'm going to have to agree with you on the socialites posing for the cameras. It may be all fun and photos for them, but it's a lifestyle choice for others.

    It's kind of a double edged sword, this exhibit. While it's getting word out there about the different styles and attributes of the fashion, as well as the history and designers behind it, it's also making it out to be a bit more carnival and kitch. I'm all for poking fun at the uber-serious uber-Goths, but I also have a modicrum of respect for the history of the style and the scene. I can't help but worry of the effect on the scene, and the style. While incorporating new styles and new blood (no pun intended) is vital to the survival of a subculture, the staying power of that blood is what concerns me. This might be seen as an invitation to flood the market with cheap knockoffs and raise the prices on other items that were previously cheaper than dirt.

    Still, it is a beautiful exhibit and thank you for the blog!

  16. lacarmina
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 9:54 am | Permalink

    I hope you apply! Some of my friends went there and loved it.

  17. lacarmina
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 10:01 am | Permalink

    Thanks for your thoughts… I had a good feeling about the exhibit overall. I thought it was well researched and displayed. I just found the opening to be less about the fashion and more about eye candy…

  18. Valerie
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:47 pm | Permalink

    I love you hair and your fashions by the way ^_^

  19. Valerie
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:47 pm | Permalink

    I love you hair and your fashions by the way ^_^

  20. Louise
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    I think i liked goth more when we were not so fasionable..

  21. Louise
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    I think i liked goth more when we were not so fasionable..

  22. Queen D
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
    I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
    Its an awesome school

    <333

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:54 pm | Permalink

      I hope you apply! Some of my friends went there and loved it.

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:54 pm | Permalink

      I hope you apply! Some of my friends went there and loved it.

  23. Queen D
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
    I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
    Its an awesome school

    <333

  24. Queen D
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
    I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
    Its an awesome school

    <333

  25. Queen D
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    That all looks absolutely AMAISING!!
    I plan on going to FIT when Im done with Highschool
    Its an awesome school

    <333

  26. Samina
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    I’m going to have to agree with you on the socialites posing for the cameras. It may be all fun and photos for them, but it’s a lifestyle choice for others.

    It’s kind of a double edged sword, this exhibit. While it’s getting word out there about the different styles and attributes of the fashion, as well as the history and designers behind it, it’s also making it out to be a bit more carnival and kitch. I’m all for poking fun at the uber-serious uber-Goths, but I also have a modicrum of respect for the history of the style and the scene. I can’t help but worry of the effect on the scene, and the style. While incorporating new styles and new blood (no pun intended) is vital to the survival of a subculture, the staying power of that blood is what concerns me. This might be seen as an invitation to flood the market with cheap knockoffs and raise the prices on other items that were previously cheaper than dirt.

    Still, it is a beautiful exhibit and thank you for the blog!

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 5:01 pm | Permalink

      Thanks for your thoughts… I had a good feeling about the exhibit overall. I thought it was well researched and displayed. I just found the opening to be less about the fashion and more about eye candy…

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 5:01 pm | Permalink

      Thanks for your thoughts… I had a good feeling about the exhibit overall. I thought it was well researched and displayed. I just found the opening to be less about the fashion and more about eye candy…

  27. Samina
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    I’m going to have to agree with you on the socialites posing for the cameras. It may be all fun and photos for them, but it’s a lifestyle choice for others.

    It’s kind of a double edged sword, this exhibit. While it’s getting word out there about the different styles and attributes of the fashion, as well as the history and designers behind it, it’s also making it out to be a bit more carnival and kitch. I’m all for poking fun at the uber-serious uber-Goths, but I also have a modicrum of respect for the history of the style and the scene. I can’t help but worry of the effect on the scene, and the style. While incorporating new styles and new blood (no pun intended) is vital to the survival of a subculture, the staying power of that blood is what concerns me. This might be seen as an invitation to flood the market with cheap knockoffs and raise the prices on other items that were previously cheaper than dirt.

    Still, it is a beautiful exhibit and thank you for the blog!

  28. Sui-chan
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 12:33 pm | Permalink

    i thought the stuffed toy looked more like kuromi from sanrio! in fact, im 100% positive…….hangry and angry wouldnt have a pink skull tattoo…..

  29. lacarmina
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 1:05 pm | Permalink

    Hey – you're right, the Lolita girl is holding Suromi. The cat doll in the photo next to her (bottom right) is from the h.NAOTO display, and it's an Angry doll.

  30. Sui-chan
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 7:33 pm | Permalink

    i thought the stuffed toy looked more like kuromi from sanrio! in fact, im 100% positive…….hangry and angry wouldnt have a pink skull tattoo…..

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 8:05 pm | Permalink

      Hey – you’re right, the Lolita girl is holding Suromi. The cat doll in the photo next to her (bottom right) is from the h.NAOTO display, and it’s an Angry doll.

    • lacarmina
      Posted September 7, 2008 at 8:05 pm | Permalink

      Hey – you’re right, the Lolita girl is holding Suromi. The cat doll in the photo next to her (bottom right) is from the h.NAOTO display, and it’s an Angry doll.

  31. Sui-chan
    Posted September 7, 2008 at 7:33 pm | Permalink

    i thought the stuffed toy looked more like kuromi from sanrio! in fact, im 100% positive…….hangry and angry wouldnt have a pink skull tattoo…..

  32. lacarmina
    Posted September 8, 2008 at 1:27 pm | Permalink

    If you can't visit the exhibition or take part in its related events, read Gothic: Dark Glamour (Yale University Press), the book that accompanies the exhibition. Co-written by Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park, coordinator of special programs at The Museum at FIT, the book also features interviews with many designers and some estraordinarily lavish work by fashion photographers such as Sean Ellis and Eugenio Recuenco.

  33. Itziar
    Posted September 8, 2008 at 2:41 pm | Permalink

    I would love to go to an exhibit like that…. but in the country where I live something like that never happens ¬¬
    Thank you for the information.

  34. lacarmina
    Posted September 8, 2008 at 8:27 pm | Permalink

    If you can’t visit the exhibition or take part in its related events, read Gothic: Dark Glamour (Yale University Press), the book that accompanies the exhibition. Co-written by Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park, coordinator of special programs at The Museum at FIT, the book also features interviews with many designers and some estraordinarily lavish work by fashion photographers such as Sean Ellis and Eugenio Recuenco.

  35. Itziar
    Posted September 8, 2008 at 9:41 pm | Permalink

    I would love to go to an exhibit like that…. but in the country where I live something like that never happens ¬¬
    Thank you for the information.

  36. Sweeney
    Posted September 11, 2008 at 12:07 pm | Permalink

    love all ur dress

  37. Sweeney
    Posted September 11, 2008 at 7:07 pm | Permalink

    love all ur dress

  38. mon mon
    Posted September 12, 2008 at 12:37 am | Permalink

    Your pix are soooo cool! I love your outfits, they rock! ~mon mon :)

  39. mon mon
    Posted September 12, 2008 at 7:37 am | Permalink

    Your pix are soooo cool! I love your outfits, they rock! ~mon mon :)

  40. DFL
    Posted September 13, 2008 at 1:18 pm | Permalink

    Great article. Just wanted to add a note.. besides the major designers, some established niche designers were also represented… in the 'Laboratory' you can see an outfit by Plastik Wrap as well as, a few other niche designers you can find at http://www.darkfashionlinks.com

    I am so very happy that Dr. Valerie Steele decided to include alternative designers in this project!!!

  41. lacarmina
    Posted September 13, 2008 at 4:08 pm | Permalink

    Me too – my friend's personal collection of club clothing was featured – how cool is that!

    Thanks for the link.

  42. lacarmina
    Posted September 13, 2008 at 11:08 pm | Permalink

    Me too – my friend’s personal collection of club clothing was featured – how cool is that!

    Thanks for the link.

  43. LiTtLe_MiSs_PsYcHo
    Posted September 20, 2008 at 12:58 am | Permalink

    wow….i wish i was there *starts dreaming*

  44. LiTtLe_MiSs_PsYcHo
    Posted September 20, 2008 at 7:58 am | Permalink

    wow….i wish i was there *starts dreaming*

  45. Adya
    Posted October 12, 2008 at 10:36 am | Permalink

    Hey! Thats me in the Bodyline japan dress with the kuromi! It was so great to meet you there.

  46. Adya
    Posted October 12, 2008 at 5:36 pm | Permalink

    Hey! Thats me in the Bodyline japan dress with the kuromi! It was so great to meet you there.

    • lacarmina
      Posted October 12, 2008 at 11:03 pm | Permalink

      Hi Adya! Lovely to meet you too; thanks for letting me take your photo. Crazy party, wasn’t it? What brought you to it?

      • Adya
        Posted February 9, 2009 at 6:29 am | Permalink

        An invitation from a friend, actually- they were looking for people to represent the various cultures, so i was asked to come in my full Lolita attire!

  47. lacarmina
    Posted October 12, 2008 at 4:03 pm | Permalink

    Hi Adya! Lovely to meet you too; thanks for letting me take your photo. Crazy party, wasn't it? What brought you to it?

  48. Adya
    Posted February 8, 2009 at 10:29 pm | Permalink

    An invitation from a friend, actually- they were looking for people to represent the various cultures, so i was asked to come in my full Lolita attire!

  49. Adya
    Posted February 9, 2009 at 6:29 am | Permalink

    An invitation from a friend, actually- they were looking for people to represent the various cultures, so i was asked to come in my full Lolita attire!