Category Archive for Tokyo + Japan
Travelling to Hiroshima: Castles & Culture! Japanican train & hotel package, Miyajima floating gate, Peace Museum.
Leaping back from my blogging hiatus… with a story about our adventures in Hiroshima, Japan!
As I mentioned in the last post, I took a blog break as I was insanely busy with a Tokyo TV shoot. I’m glad to report the show went well, and I then had a great time traveling in Asia with my friends.
Now, I’m refreshed and ready to share new travel / fashion / culture stories with you… beginning with my JAPANiCAN trip to Hiroshima, a city I’ve always wanted to see!
Because I was away, I didn’t get a chance to share some outfit photos. Isn’t my cosmic galaxy umbrella out of this world? It’s by Boy 1904 umbrellas: they make high-end designer umbrellas that provide both UV and rain protection. (It also matches my Alien Botany dress by Zoetica Ebb.)
I carried this Boy 1904 umbrella everywhere with me during the summer. The UV-proof fabric keeps me cool and protected from the sun’s rays, and the roses / butterflies / space pattern drew tons of compliments.
The parasol opens and closes smoothly, and has a well-designed strap to hold it together. Give Boy Umbrellas a glance; they have plenty of colors and original designs.
Now, let’s say hello to Hiroshima! The major Japanese city is located south-west of Tokyo, about a four hour train ride or 1.5 hr flight from the capital. Because of the distance, my friends and I never got around to visiting Hiroshima until this time.
Join us as we discover the history and spiritual culture of the city, including the famous floating shrine at Miyajima. We’ll end with a visit to the Peace Museum, which memorializes the victims of the 1945 atomic bombing. (It’s an intense visit, but don’t worry, there are no graphic images in this story.)
If you’re keen on visiting Hiroshima for a few days, I strongly recommend booking a JAPANiCAN travel package like I did. Their “4-Day Hiroshima Train & Hotel Package by Nozomi Shinkansen” was exactly what I was looking for: fast, round trip bullet train tickets from Tokyo (or Shinagawa or Shin-Yokohama), plus three nights hotel in Hiroshima.
JAPANiCAN’s website has options for various travel packages and tours in different Japanese cities. Making a booking on their website was simple, and took the stress out of searching schedules and hotels. JAPANiCAN booked me into Hotel New Hiroden (which was in the perfect location by Hiroshima Station, and included a free 1-day streetcar pass). They reserved my train tickets, and delivered them to my Tokyo hotel a few days before the departure.
(My Sailor Moon nail art is by Glam Nail Studio in Richmond, BC.)
All I had to do was get to Tokyo Station, and hop on the “nozomi” shinkansen where I had reserved seats. Since it was a direct bullet train, I didn’t have to worry about platform changes. I relaxed in the spacious seats with a coffee, and watched the changing sights out the window. (The train passes through Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and other major cities.)
Four hours later, I was in Hiroshima. And a four-minute walk later, I was checked in to my hotel, and ready to explore!
JAPANiCAN’s four day travel package made trip-planning a breeze, and the total cost was far lower than if I booked regular tickets and hotel rooms on my own. Check them out if you’re planning a trip, as they have fantastic travel options for all major cities in Japan.
I loved the flexibility of the package: they arranged the hotel and trains, but I was free to spend my time exploring however I liked.
My friends and I began our journey at Hiroshima Castle, also known as Carp Castle. Built in the 1590s, this was the elegant home of the daimyo, or feudal lord. The castle was sadly destroyed by the atom bombing in World War II, but a close replica was rebuilt in 1958.
We crossed the moat bridge and entered Hiroshima-Jo. The classic stone and wood architecture made me feel as if I were in a samurai movie.
The castle’s main keep is five stories tall, and surrounded by beautiful gardens.
I was traveling with two artist friends, and they created art all throughout the trip. I’m excited to introduce this new “travel illustration” feature in my stories! I love how their works capture the feeling of being there at that moment.
Naomi Rubin (my First Mate and creator of weekly comic Moonsprout Station) did this dreamy watercolor of Hiroshima Castle. It takes me right back to standing beneath these eaves, taking in the architecture and natural surroundings. (Any visitor can get this free red stamp as a souvenir; love how Naomi incorporated it into the painting.)
Becky Hawkins has a series of journal comics about travels and daily life. Many of these postcards showcase the humorous and memorable moments of traveling — such as this one, about her and Naomi!
(Although the castle structure was destroyed by the bomb, several trees survived and continue to grow tall.)
For a 300 yen fee, you can enter the castle. Inside, there is a museum that focuses on Hiroshima’s history before World War II, as well as Japanese castles.
As Yukiro demonstrates with a “da-me” pose, you can try on the samurai costume… but “don’t put tight armor”!
Visitors can climb the staircase to the very top floor of the castle. From the balcony, you can take in panoramic views of Hiroshima, particularly the rivers and popular Hondori district.
Can you spot my friends waving at you? Hail Hiroshima!
Here is Becky Hawkins’ ink drawing of the castle, which is how I picture it in my mind. (For more of her works, check out her SuperButch comic about a 1940s lesbian superhero, with Barry Deutsch. It updates every Tuesday.)
The next day, we went to see the famous orange-red torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine. It’s located on the island of Itsukushima, popularly known as “Miyajima” or literally “shrine island.”
To get here, you have to take the train for about 45 minutes from downtown Hiroshima, followed by a short ferry ride. We rode the Sanyo line from JR Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi, and then hopped on the JR Miyajima Ferry. If you go out on the balcony, you can wave at the red arch as the ferry approaches the isle.
The Shinto torii gate is unique for being built over the water, giving the impression that it’s floating in the water during high tide. You can check the daily schedule to see when the sea will be at low and high tide. (We arrived in Miyajima around 10am, which was just when the shops were opening).
Itsukushima is an adorable destination, with plenty of cafes and craft shops that maintain an Edo-era feeling. We stopped for excellent coffee and breakfast before wandering around.
Without doubt, you’ll encounter the local deer as you walk around. Looks like this guy is hungry for Japanese curry!
The stores sell local specialities, such as “deer beer.” Kawaii is everywhere in Japan, so you’ll find characters like Moomin and Totoro in the souvenir shops.
More snaps of cute collectibles. Those lucky cats (maneki neko) are truly reaching for the stars, with their giant paws.
I made friends with a giant tanuki, or Japanese raccoon!
Outfit details: I’m holding a Boy 1904 umbrella, and wearing an alien tank top like this one. My skeleton bones leggings are similar to these ones here.
Miyajima is a destination for slowing down and enjoying the natural surroundings. The seafront promenade is especially lovely, and passes by both Buddhist and Shinto temples.
At low tide, the water drains out of the bay, and visitors can walk all the way up to the gate.
Miyajima torii’s vermilion color supposedly keeps evil spirits away (but somehow, this Goth sneaked through). The bottom of the gate, which is sometimes immersed in water, is covered in barnacles and coins left by visitors.
Wearing skeleton leggings and an alien top.
Itsukushima Shrine was built in 1168 by Taira no Kiyomori, the powerful military leader of the late Heian Period. He selected the island to be the site of his clan’s family shrine, and mounted this otherworldly red-orange gate to protect it.
The island has long been a spiritual location. In 806 AD, the monk Kobo Dashi climbed the highest peak, Mount Misen, and made the mountain a center for Shingon Buddhism. (However, the primary location for Shingon is Koya-san, which I also visited).
I took snaps of the traditional Gojunoto Pagoda, and a deer with impressive antlers.
What else is there to see on Miyajima? More shrines, a white horse statue in a stable, and the world’s largest rice scoop!
In the back of one of the stores, we discovered a beautiful Japanese garden with bonsai trees and giant koi fish in the pond.
Don’t leave Itsukushima without trying momiji manju, a buckwheat and rice pastry shaped like a maple leaf. These mini cakes are usually filled with red bean paste, and are a specialty on the island.
This sweet was invented by a wagashi (confections) maker in the late Meiji period. Miyajima’s various shops serve momiji in different ways, including steamed or fried, and stuffed with different fillings like chocolate, cream and cheese. I recommend trying something warm and freshly-made; you can’t go wrong with the original red bean ones.
Naomi got an adorable stuffed momiji, to commemorate our trip. Miyajima is a must-see when you’re in Hiroshima, especially for those who love Japanese culture, architecture and spirituality.
We dedicated an afternoon to remembering the nuclear bombing of Hiroshima during World War II. The sheer devastation of the attack hits home when you see the Atomic Dome, or Genbaku Dome building (above). Only the skeleton of the structure remains, and the surrounding walls are blackened.
Nearby, we stopped at a plaque that marks the Hypocenter, or exact location where the atomic bomb “Little Boy” detonated in mid-air.
Everyone who visits Hiroshima should do their best to visit the Peace Memorial Museum, which documents the atomic bombing of August 6, 1945 and its aftermath.
The museum is located in Peace Memorial Park, a well-designed green space that has multiple commemorations throughout. These include an eternal Peace Flame, and an arch-shaped cenotaph etched with the names of all of the people killed by the bomb.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum uses interactive technology to powerfully convey the scale of the nuclear destruction. This circular video shows a bird’s eye view of the city, and follows the bomb as it hits the hypocenter. As many as 140,000 people died from the US atomic attack, both from the direct impact and the later radiation sickness.
(The museum also talks about the bombing of Nagasaki three days later, which killed up to 80,000 individuals.)
This black and white panorama shows how the bomb’s blazing heat and radiation laid total waste to Hiroshima.
Other displays talk about the history of Hiroshima both before and after WWII, including the health effects, politics, rebuilding, and other topics.
I thought the most powerful exhibits were the stories of survivors, especially children who described the pain and horror around them, and the loss of their family members. Above are some of the most haunting images: the tattered clothing of the dead, and the shadows left behind by those vaporized in the thermal radiation.
I saw dozens of Japanese school kids in matching hats at the museum; it was good to see children learning first-hand about the bombing of Hiroshima. These exhibits highlighted recent developments such as Obama’s visit, and ongoing worldwide efforts to make sure this never happens again.
One of the most powerful exhibits consisted of artwork by survivors. I felt that their memories, depicted through art, conveyed the terror even more vividly than the photographs.
The Hiroshima Peace Museum is an intense visit, but an important one to make. I encourage you to set aside at least a few hours to take it all in, and then give yourself time to relax afterwards. (We went to have a glass of yuzu liqueur after we left… and took it easy the rest of the night.)
Today, Hiroshima has rebuilt itself into a modern and energetic city. Becky Hawkins put it perfectly in her travel postcard from our trip: “All I knew of Hiroshima was the atomic bombing. I saw a vibrant city with a rich history… And a lively present.”
I hope you enjoyed the new travel art feature, and our stories of the historical / cultural attractions! In an upcoming post, we’ll focus on the fun alternative fashion and pop culture of Hiroshima — after all, this is the hometown of Mana of Malice Mizer.
If you’re in Tokyo and interested in visiting Hiroshima, I highly suggest booking a JAPANiCAN travel package. Our three-day train and hotel deal saved us the headache of making arrangements, and the total price was less than if we had booked independently. You can find out more, and see packages and tours for various Japanese cities, on their site.
Finally, are you getting excited for Halloween yet? A lot of spooky fashion has just been released for the season of the witch!
I found the above Halloween Gothic clothing collections here and here — happy shopping!
For the latest Goth Halloween fashion, visit this site.
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Osaka, Japan Gothic stores! Satanic Territory occult & witchcraft shop, Japanese tattoos, pentagram fashion.
“Today is enjoy!” Since it’s still spooky season, I thought I’d release an updated guide to the Gothic and underground shops of Osaka, Japan.
The red pentagram hints at the theme of today’s post. We’ll delve into the Kansai Goth, occult and Satanic scene…
… including exclusive photos of Territory, the devilish lair of Taiki-san. Read on for Osaka tattoos, taxidermy and absinthe as well!
I thought I’d include these purikura (sticker machine) photos from Tokyo as well, since there are quite a few devil horns and pentagrams. Doing purikura with friends is a must when you’re in Japan. You’ll wind up with ridiculous sticker images (often with bizarre English) that you can decorate before printing out.
Outfit details: I’m wearing Killstar leggings and a top from Dead Gallery Iceland, by artist Jon Saemunder Audarson.
There are “sticker picture” photobooths around the world, but the most high-tech and bizarre ones are only in Japan. Go to any game center, such as Taito in Shinjuku, and you’ll find a handful or more “purikura” machines to pick from (as well as games galore).
Japanese purikura (short for “print club”) turns you into a big-eyed, stretch-limbed being. You can choose from all sorts of frames and effects, and digitally decorate the photos.
I especially love to do purikura around Halloween, since they release seasonal stickers (like the ghosts and pentagram stars above).
After posing for about six photos, you can choose your favorites and decorate them side-by-side with your friend. There’s a digital pen that you can use to select various borders, stickers, text and effects (such as changing your hair color).
Purikura decorating is an art form — you want to achieve the perfect balance of ridiculous-ness in the image, without cluttering it up! I think Kanae and I did a pretty good job with these ones.
In the old days, you had to use scissors to carefully cut up and divide the purikura prints. Now, you can choose to print out two copies, as well as send the images to your phone or email. What a world we live in!
And now, let’s dive into the Osaka underworld. Most of the alternative / Gothic / underground shops are in the America Mura district — including this self-described lair of Satanism and Witchcraft, Territory.
The entrance cautions you to Beware. Only those with dark souls dare to cross this gate, guarded by skulls and other deathly figures.
On the Territory signboard, you’ll notice the Latin words “Non Serviam,” or “I will not serve”. The phrase is generally attributed to Lucifer, and sums up the powerful spirit of this establishment.
Since 1996, Taiki’s Territory has garnered a devout underground following. Territory is well hidden, and not even many locals know about its existence. Go down to the basement level, and wander around until you find these skeletons and demons.
Address: 2 Chome-8-33 Nishishinsaibashi, Osaka Center Building B1, Chuo Ward, Osaka, Japan.
I visited Territory’s mastermind, Taiki-san, with Dr. John M. Skutlin (cultural anthropologist and Japan specialist, who writes about subculture and tattoos in Japan). He shares Taiki’s story in this special report.
“The founder of Osaka’s Gothic underground event scene, it is said that Taiki gained his Satanic pedigree in 1996 when he visited New York City and studied the dark arts at a certain occult shop. He returned to Japan in the same year and opened his own shop of occult and Satanic antiques and merchandise – Territory.”
“Meeting with Goth and occult luminaries on the scene like Voltaire and Paul Booth, he eventually became something of a regular in the New York’s Goth music scene during his frequent trips from Japan. This experienced helped inspire him to open his own Gothic music bar – the first of its kind in Japan – called Sabbat on Friday the 13th of October 1999.”
“Taiki began organizing Gothic events for the dark underground of Osaka around the turn of the millennium, including parties like Devil’s Christmas and later the long running Black Veil. His gatherings became yearly highlights that drew guests not only from Tokyo and other cities in Japan, but also from abroad. His events have featured major acts in the EBM and dark electro scenes such as Hocico and Combichrist’s Andy LePlegua.”
“While Bar Sabbat is no longer serving alcohol, his Satanic shop Territory is open for business in Osaka’s Shinsaibashi district, and Black Veil draws Goths from the dark corners of Japan three times a year around Walpurgis Eve, Halloween, and New Year’s Eve.”
Taiki-san usually does not permit photography inside his spiritual shop, but made an exception for us. Taiki has a powerful presence, and surrounds himself with dark talismans. When you speak with him, you feel as if you’re in the presence of a wizard.
Territory is not a Halloween kitsch shop. Everything here is of exquisite quality: dark art sourced from around the world, many with frightening backgrounds attached to them.
You can spend hours looking at all the small details within this museum collection (as not all items are for sale).
Taiki has a knack for finding works that seem to possess a malevolent spirit. Whether antique or new, these collections convey a sense of death and unease — which Goths like us find fascinating.
Of course, there is plenty of Satanic iconography. The horned one sits next to a Iron Maiden torture device, while a witch baby doll looms in the shadows.
Many items pay homage to Japanese “yōkai,” or monsters and demons in Japanese folklore. However, Taiki has items from around the world, especially relics from Germany and Europe.
In addition to taxidermy and human skulls, Territory carries clothing and home items with the mark of the devil. I picked up a tote bag with the Church of Satan symbol.
You’ll either feel appalled by Taiki’s Territory, or eager to visit (and I hope you’re in the second category!) If you aren’t going to be in Osaka any time soon, you can also order items from his shop online.
In the same building is Fog, an absinthe bar that Taiki-san frequents. My friends and I adore drinking absinthe, and Fog has some of the finest bottles of “green fairy” from around the world.
Fog even carries several of the HR Giger absinthes, named after the Alien art designer (I’m so excited to visit the Giger bar in Gruyeres, Switzerland). We tried the H. R. Giger Wolfsmilch and Absinthe Brevans; the latter is named for Jacques de Brevans, author of a classic French liquor-maker’s manual.
The bartender can help you choose from over 20 kinds of absinthe. He can suggest the best way to drink it (straight, on the rocks, or using the classic water drip over a flaming sugar cube). The bar carries other types of alcohol as well, and does cocktails.
Fog is dimly lit, and until my eyes adjusted, I didn’t realize it was filled with watchful creatures. There was a real owl in one corner, which I thought was stuffed at first.
The walls are mounted with butterflies and insect specimens, as well as creepy deer heads in serial killer masks.
Fog Absinthe Bar’s address is the same as Territory’s; both are in the maze-like lower level of Osaka Center Building.
Address: 2 Chome-8-33 Nishishinsaibashi, basement level, Chuo Ward, Osaka
We also stopped by Bleeding Maria, a special place protected by witches. (Address: 2-18-6 Shinsaibashi, 5th floor – it’s in a Americamura building with an elevator, filled with small shops).
Yukiro and I visited Bleeding Maria many years ago. This time, the witches had flown and we weren’t able to go inside.
I encourage you to drop by this unusual establishment of witchcraft, runes and fortune-telling. The owner, Kaori, speaks English and German very well — so you can visit even if you don’t know Japanese. Perhaps you’ll have a chance to hang out in this spiritual haven, and meet her pet tarantula.
If the words “Painful Pleasures” appeal to you, then you’ve got to visit Babylon. The name hints that this is not just a piercing / body art studio. There are twisted cultural and anthropological treasures to be found within.
Address: 1-16-7 Nishi Shinsaibashi, Osaka
John sets the scene in this report: “Stepping into Babylon Body Art’s Osaka, which started off more than a decade ago as a bar in a different location, one is surrounded by stuffed and mounted animals and various taxidermic specimens. Shelves are filled to capacity with rare and unusual books in both Japanese and English, on subjects ranging from anatomy and zoology to bestiality and methods of execution.”
“The glass cases are full of piercings from brands like Anatometal and Maya Jewelry. On the television, one can expect to find any number of macabre and unusual videos, such as the gruesome scenes of a VHS copy of the infamous Faces of Death shockumentary (directed by Conan LeCilaire, 1978).”
“The owner, Bonzin, admittedly revels in his own self-professed “bad taste.” Covered in tattoos (including a full back piece of the Senju Kannon bodhisattva) and sporting multiple implants (both subdermal and transdermal), he is not only a piercer but also a popular artist and DJ at Goth events, and has organized all of the major suspension performances in Kansai.”
“Bonzin sees his own body as a work of art, explaining he was initially inspired to modify his body in more extreme ways after seeing the decidedly Cronenbergian cyberpunk film Tetsuo: The Iron Man (Tsukamoto Shinya, 1989). He claims to have transformed into the “Iron Man” that he set out to become.”
I like how Babylon’s displays have a sense of absurd humor. The seal on a swing looks happy to be bopping noses with a piglet, while an armadillo crouches behind.
This skeleton models a cyber apocalyptic gasmask, wedged between two glass cases.
How kawaii are the stuffed mice, with gems for eyes and black ram horns coming out of their foreheads? Babylon is quite the kingdom of dark delights.
Next, we paid a visit to Horitsuna, the revered tattoo artist at Desperado studio. (Center Bldg 6F, 2-10-29, Nishi-
Horitsuna is self-taught, and specializes not only in Japanese wabori designs, but also tribal and other styles. Above are some design mock-ups featuring devils and daruma.
John has interviewed Horitsuna extensively for his scholarly work, and explains, “He uniquely incorporates Japanese tattoo design elements like gakubori (background designs, such as waves, clouds, or fire, connecting motifs into a larger piece) with more Western design elements, including grotesque and occult themes.”
In a country where tattooing is heavily regulated, Horitsuna is one of Japan’s most prominent tattoo artists and owns two studios. He regularly attends the Hong Kong International Tattoo Convention, and has won awards at conventions in Japan, Thailand, France, and Finland.
All of these underground stores are found in Amerikamura or Ame-Mura (America Village). This remains the best neighborhood in Osaka to see Gothic, Lolita, Punk and alternative street style, including indie boutiques — a sort of equivalent to Harajuku in Tokyo.
To get to this Osaka youth district, take the subway to Shinsaibashi station, and then wander around. The shops change around all the time, and the district is not large, so it’s best to simply spend time here and see what you find.
There’s a great mix of vintage and new street style in Amerika Mura. This time around, I spotted a whole lot of pentagrams / Satanic stars….
This top like Miffy the bunny, with a similar X mouth. How funny to see her with bat wings, inside the star of the devil, yet in soft pastel colors! (I always knew Miffy had an evil side.)
Goth pastel Lolita meets horror Japanese fashion? Osaka’s Big Step department store has all your favorite EGL brands (Alice and the Pirates, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Kera, Miho Matsuda).
The Magic Amulet collection from Angelic Pretty has several types of pointed stars on its JSK prints.
Funny to see the Jewish Star of David… all over Japanese Gothic accessories! Perhaps the designers merely like the look of the six-pointed star.
Spooky Goth meets Seinfeld… now that’s a Japanese street style I never thought I’d see!
The devil is everywhere in Shinsaibashi, Osaka. I passed by the 666 store, on the way to Closet Child (the secondhand chain also found in Tokyo).
Theme restaurants abound as well. Here’s the entrance to Alucard, a vampire themed restaurant that is now closed (I guess they were a bit too successful at banishing vampires with wooden stakes). However, you can still visit the Tokyo Vampire cafe.
John introduced me to Cafe Anamune, a medical themed cafe run by locals. I love the laid-back feeling of this little place, which has flasks and zombie nurses lurking around. Order the simple yet lovely Japanese curry, and enjoy the atmosphere.
Anamune Cafe address: 1-8-16 Nakanishi Building 501, Nishishinsaibashi, Osaka.
Osaka’s Americamura / Shinsaibashi area is a district filled with funky art, alt culture and inspiration. Such as the Alice on Wednesday shop, which is dedicated to Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland. If you figure out the correct door and hidden keyholes, you’ll enter a boutique with a Queen of Hearts throne room, Mad Hatter party and more — selling everything from Eat Me candies to clocks.
Alice on Wednesday is found at 2-12-25 Asahi Plaza Shinsaibashi, Osaka
I leave you with this subway poster featuring Miffy the bunny, peeking out passengers! Huge thanks to JR Pass for making this Japan trip a reality.
I was able to travel seamlessly by train, from Tokyo to Osaka and other cities, using an unlimited Japan Rail Pass. Find out more about these rail passes on their site, and in my travel video.
I hope you enjoyed our funny purikura escapades as well! If you’re in Japan, taking “print club” sticker photos is an absolute must.
For more offbeat travel stories from Japan, come browse my Tokyo blog category. There are tips for theme restaurants, underground shops and more, from 2007 to today. Here’s to more Gothic Japanese adventures soon!
LA CARMINA
