Month Archive for September 2008
GOTHIC LOLITA RUNWAY PHOTOS AND REVIEW OF MARUI INDIVIDUAL FASHION EXPO IV.

Patrick Macias did a fantastic recap of the Marui Individual Fashion Expo IV, so I’ll just add a few notes about the live experience and my favorite looks for each brand. These runway photos are courtesy of Mainichi Online.
Minutes after the doors opened, the rows nearest the stage were filled with Lolitas. Ambient noise “music” echoed through the arena; above the stage, three screens looped an animation of water dripping as the camera moveed through doorways (giving me uncomfortable flashbacks of Brooklyn circa 2003). The lights dimmed and Marui blasted a short brand promo video set to dance music.
The girls leaned forward, gasping and whispering: Baby! The lights revealed Sweet Lolitas rocking back and forth on wooden swings… with creaking noises broadcast over a solo piano track. (It was a tad Rosemary’s Baby.) The collection was standard BTSSB – pink, frills, up-dos, cute poses – but nobody tops this brand for quality and daintiness. Top looks: a bridal ensemble (above), and high-heeled boots with white furry segments and dangling fuzzy balls.
The soundtrack switches to female-fronted pop rock. Alice and the Pirates stands in a row, looking ready to plunder. I loved the clutch that resembles a crossbow, and I was overwhelmed by the final look: a long, black velvet cape with the gold logo on the back, paired with a black top hat with red feathers.

The Angelic Pretty fairy pranced out with sky-high pink hair, sweeping her magic wand and throwing a flower bouquet to the crowd. The collection is pure candy floss, and more kitschy-fun than Baby: the models waved and bobbed their heads to the music. Favorite look: a big red royal crown worn with a red winter coat. I also loved AP’s knee-high lace-up red glossy boots.
Blues rock was the music of choice for Metamorphose temps de fille. Despite the animal backpacks, Metamorphose went for mature and subdued; a brown dress, a grey coat and matching hat. I thought their plaids and red boots worked best.
I was least impressed by the Kera Angel models, who entered the catwalk through a picture frame. Princess Doll’s skirts were limp, and a yellow and black checkered dress fell flat. Nile Perch’s casual tops and bright pink gauzy skirts reminded me of Western “scene queen” wear such as Jessica Louise and New York Couture.
The girls next to me leaned forward once again when Victorian Maiden’s logo flashed on the screen. Like Patrick, I was first drawn to the dead roses clutched by the first model… but then my attention shifted to her glorious short white jacket with three horizontal military stripes down the front. Purple and magenta combinations were heavily featured. A dark romantic couple in top hats, riding uniforms and jabots strutted the stage together; the girl tripped on her way back and the next model (who wore the same high platforms) walked at a tortoise-like pace. (Note to self – avoid these boots.) Parasol lovers would have died at the beautiful black creation topped with black gauze and feathers with a trail down the side.
Models wearing Atelier Boz showed off Artherapie bags; I don’t find anything special about these purses and wallets. Kanon Wakeshima graced the stage in a decadent white dress and crown. She sang in a breathy voice, enchanted me with her cello playing… and it was over much to quickly.
Twinkle, twinkle, little star… segued into punk rock music. Hangry and Angry’s models stood in a line and rocked out; I liked how each label had a unique stage presence. Favorite look: a nun’s headdress meets rabbit ears hat.
A French chanteuse crooned “zoom, zoom,” and the catwalk turned candy-kitsch. Emily Temple Cute (above) surprised me with 1950s soda-pop wear and pointy gold heels. 
The next performance was a crowd-pleasing riot: as Patrick puts it, “Visual band jealkb hit the stage with mock yaoi kisses and homocore theatrics.” At rock concerts, you might sometimes pump your fist in the air, wave it around, or headbang… right? Well, jealkb had a Head + Hand Motion Leader to show us how it’s done. So, there were 2400 Lolitas doing the wave and headbanging in time to the Leader… insanity! Later, Plastic Tree brought down the house. I haven’t seen a solid rock performance like that in years.
Kera Arena unleashed models with red and blue strips of color in their hair. Hiderock, Hypercore, OzzCcroce and Qutie Fresh didn’t impress me much, but I loved Super Lovers’ tights with a giant Union Jack on one leg. 
My notes start to run together at this point… Sixh emerged from strobe lights; the collection entrenches h.NAOTO as master of Goth menswear. Feathers and red petals rained from above for Peace Now and Black Peace Now; out of all the designers, BPN showed the most skin. Top look: a stunning asymmetrical black jacket. 
Sexy Dynamite London brought out trademark plaids and leopard prints. Algonquins closed the show with a splash of bright red; I loved the Where’s Waldo tuques. 
All the performers and models gathered on stage and bowed. Red petals rained, and silver streamers shot through the air and into the audience. Final image: the Alice and the Pirates model tipped his top hat, dramatically spun around his long velvet cape… and then he was gone.
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SWEET LOLITA AND GOTH STYLE SNAPS: EGL HARAJUKU GIRLS, MARUI FASHION SHOW.

Time to head inside JCB Hall for Marui Shinjuku’s Individual Fashion Expo IV! The male counterpart of Gothic Lolita (known as Kodona, Ouji, Dandy) is a rare bird, so I made a point of shooting these elegant Harajuku aristocrats. Which one would you want to be your Little Prince?

Here’s another look at my new navy blue Atelier Pierrot corset-skirt. I also bought shoes: these Leche by Yosuke ankle boots were a steal at around $75. I found them on display at the Marui Shinjuku department store; Floor 7 is Gothic Lolita Rococo Punk shoe heaven. (Brace yourself for photos! )

The seats were assigned, so there wasn’t a mad rush through the door. (It’s nice how anybody can buy an $8 ticket and watch a 3-hour runway show, unlike the major Fashion Weeks which are invite and press-only.) Everyone received a Marui gift bag containing postcards, Goth Loli fashion and magazine promos, and Camu Camu grapefruit candies.

There was a row of retail booths in the lobby: GLP.C stationery, Arthropie bags/wallets, Kera back issues, music merchandise. A woman in a cat mask gave out heart-shaped lollipops to the girls who filed past.

And I thought I had long hair! Lolitas and Goths were the dominant “style tribes” present, but I also saw some Jesus Diamante glam girls in bouffant hairdos and heels.

BFFs in the Goth and Sweet Lolita realms.

This lady’s handmade magic mushroom meets Minnie Mouse bell skirt stood out. Her little girl and boy look ready to conquer late 70s London!

Many Lolitas were quite young; I’d put these two in their early teens. There were a handful of attendees over 30, and they were equally fashionable. I love this woman’s mature and refined look.

Is this us in 50 years?
Next, we’ll continue our MaruiOne theme with a peek inside the department store and a review of the fashion expo.
LA CARMINA


